I thought I'd put this tread here. I know a lot of Integra owners have done this.
Got the engine out of my truck and into my garage.



I have very limited space. That's the hard part of this job.



Once the car is on jack stands I'll have plenty of space to rotate the crane in either direction. It will get harder when the original engine is out, but I've mesured everything and I have...just a little more room than I need.
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This is an OEM starter for the GSR? Its tiny, about 4" long, 3" wide. The solenoid is nearly as big.



The one on my car now, is much larger (8x4"), typical size.
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See that Honda sticker?

 

Yeah, I saw the sticker. I've never seen one that small. Newer Honda technology I guess. 1.4kw.
I have a replacement starter for my '90, so I've gotten a good look at it....bigger, by a good bit.
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I can count on the fact that if I can't find my favorite coffee cup anywhere, it's in the garage. It's always been that way.

My first task will be to remove the trans and flywheel to renew all that, first. I'd like to hoist the engine to start on the other side, leaving the transmission off. I have to find another bolt hole on that side of the engine....and get the correct bolt, unless I can use one of the trans mount bolts. I don't think they're big enough tho.....I'll look closer tomorrow.

Any suggestions?

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Use the driver side post for one side.

Passenger side, the starter bolt and the front transmission bolt. That should be good enough.

I think the last time I changed a clutch like that I just put it on a furniture dolly with some 2x4s to balance it. Engine cradle would be nice too...

 

My service manual said to use a large bolt at the top driver's side on the head. I don't like that, but that's what I used....so far. What do you mean by driver's side post? No engine mounts came with this engine. I got hasport mounts, but they said I could use the blocks or mount holders(?) that attach on the engine, can come off of my '90, but there's only studs sticking out of the engine at the moment.

I'm going to have to hang the engine to do the oil strainer, pan and oil pump. I don't have the space for an engine stand. So I'll be working, to one degree or another, underneath the engine. The less weight the better.

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Oh yeah, there is an unused threaded hole just for that reason.

on the block, drivers side, there should be a post, where the mount attaches. In between the upper and lower t belt covers.

Move the hoist/ car out of the garage until you’re ready to use it

you really want that engine on a stand a stand while you are working on it. That way you can mock up/change everything and when you take it off the stand, you bolt up the transmission, drop it in the bay, and hang it on the driver and passenger mounts. Quick and easy.

 

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Found in manual:
Remove "8 drive plate bolts" while turning the crankshaft pulley. Of course after removing the bell housing cover.


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Updated: I was looking in the wrong part of a long pdf manual. That's the auto-trans, but something is holding this transmission from coming out. I know there's a pipe under the intake that goes toward the trans. I'll have to look at that, but it doesn't seem like it'd be connected to the trans.
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I think this should be moved to the appearance and builds forums as I believe your starting a build thread with this post OP?

 

Post pics. What have you removed?

 

I took off the bottom bolts, including stiffener brackets and dust cover....all the bolts on the block side.

Took off all the connectors, the starter, slave cylinder...all the bolts on that, the trans side. I have not removed the speed sensor (the mechanical insert), or any of the thermostat housing. I can't see any reason I'd need to.

Everything is out and this trans won't budge. Not even a tiny bit. Am I missing something, or could it be from being attached for 25 years? I've tried shaking it up and down, and beat on the the back where the intermediate shaft was....with a rubber mallet. Nothing. I've got the engine setting at the end of a flat dolly supported under the oil pan and no weight on the trans.

Opinions appreciated.
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Just to throw in some photos.....
I didn't try the other side, it's too close to the wall at the moment, but it's the same. No bolts, no stiffeners. Dust cover out.



All the bolts out here (below).



On the front side too. Everything off.




Just differential case bolts on the bottom.




...but this is disturbing. This crack and residue from leaking oil.



I think this is bad. It leaks. The trans is beginning to come loose a little. At most a 1/16" separation, mostly at the top and some of the sides. I'm knocking around it with my rubber mallet ....on the mounting points or where things were attached. The heavy metal spots....and wiggling it. The bottom I think is still stuck. I'm taking my time.

I've got three manuals and have watched videos too. I don't think I'm missing anything. If I am, please let me know.

Opinions wanted, thanks.

 

There's a bolt that's on the front near the clutch fork that faces the opposite direction of the other bolts. I would post a diagram but you haven't bothered to provide enough information.

 

Two bolts, if you include the one thru the engine stiffener. They are out. I didn't photograph that side because it's too close to the wall now. I picked it up and rotated it to work on that side.

Sorry, thought I'd put '94-'95, jdm- b18c or c1 with y80 trans.

 

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I think it's mostly stuck on the dowel pins. I think I'll have it off by tomorrow. I'm not going to get in a hurry.


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Yeah, I went back out there last night and got the trans off. It was stuck on the corroded dowel pins.

I cleaned it up a bit this morning and looked closer. The oil residue appears to be coming from above. There's and square-head plug just above on the very (passenger side) end. I don't know what it's there for. A separate differential fill plug? I don't know.



The clutch and pressure plate don't show abuse, but nearing the end of its lifespan. I'm leaning toward using this trans, but haven't decided fully. There is some rotational slop in the mainshaft, but none front to back or side to side.
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I rotated the engine this morning and removed the valve cover. It's time to start on the front side. Oil pump and oil pan, clean the strainer, then the water pump and timing belt. I've done this on my A1, but noticed something different besides the insides of the rocker area. The timing gears do NOT have the arrow marks where TDC lines up. They just have the up arrows and p72 or something opposite. My A1 when you've got the "UP" arrows up and the two 90 degree marks facing each other, you've got TDC. Yeah, you can check the timing mark on the pulley and only one cylinder rockers are loose, but....I like the way the A1 has the extra marks.

Someone has worked on it. They painted white marks at 90 degrees, but the faced the outside instead of inside so the inside teeth line up with each other.

First though, I've decided to check and adjust the valves and do a compression test. I've have to remove the sparkplugs and rotate the engine by hand. Not the easiest way, but I have to do it before going further.

I haven't fully decided about this transmission. I think it's ok, but I want to research the gear ratios, compared to the A1 trans.
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That's not a crack, it's just casting marks. The 1/2" square head plug is to gain access to snap ring to lock/remove the case.

 

The GSR trans will be leaps and bounds better geared than the LS trans.

 

You should have some "-" marks on the right side of the exhaust and the left side of the intake gears

See below :

 

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They ARE there. I was so puzzled by someone painting the outside marks, I didn't see them.



Why would someone paint the outside marks?
The timing belt is too tight.




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On what basis are you saying this Caoboy? The gearing in my A1 is perfect for what I do with my car and where I'm doing it. This is why I'm inquiring about it.

I'm not on a race track, but from time to time I'm doing 75mph (in 5th gear) around 30mph marked corners in the Texas Hill Country near me. I'm not pushing the very limit of the traction and at 75, the engine is at 3500 rpm, so I'm not putting any strain on the engine....or the trans. Perfect for what I want. So I'm looking at the gear ratio and wondering what the difference will be.

Note: I have done a lot of work on the suspension.

Updated: Ok, between Caoboy and Chris at Hasport, I'm convinced to stay with the Y80 trans. It'll only put me at about 4000 rpm at 75mph. Fine for the GSR engine.

I appreciate the advice.
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Gearing in the LS is long compared to the GSR.

Shorter gears and higher revving engine and it will be a lot more fun around those corners. It's like the Goldilocks of B series transmissions in my.opinion
Not super short like CTR, not long like the LS. Just right....

 

I'll explain my issue. When you're at higher rpms, the car is more twitchy. In other words, at 6000 rpms and you hit a bump or dip or gravel, or for any other reason the changes to torque and traction on the tires are more radical (at higher rpms), verses when you're at 3500 (or at low to mid-range) rpms.

So if you're pushing the car to, or near the limit around a corner and you run over any change on the road surface, the traction on the tires at 3500 is smoother, more stable and less likely to lose traction........if I stated that clearly.

3000 to 4000 rpms is a good place to be when you're on the edge of road holding capability. Honda does have racing heritage, so maybe they kept it in mind. The Y80 IS going in, so I'll find out.

....for the same reason I'm keeping the oem dual runner intake. Hopefully better mid-range, but I'll see. I have no idea how smooth the transition is.
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