Hi, I'm in the process of rebuilding my B16A that currently has 133k miles. I want it to be future proof if I either go forced induction or a mild N/A build. Regardless, the car will not see more than 300whp as it will be a street and track car. Here is the setup I'm thinking about:
- Stock B16 rods with ARP bolts
- Nippon Racing P73 pistons, pins and rings (81.25mm)
- ARP Head studs
- King AL Bearings (non-race)
Is this basic setup adequate for the power goal, or forged rods (say Eagle) are a must for longevity? Is a race bearing set necessary at this power level? Is it safe to run the stock valvetrain at this mileage with this power and the stock rev limit? I'm not trying to cut any corners, but as I'm not in the US and have to import basically everything for the rebuild, things get very expensive quickly.

 

Get K1, Manley, or Eagle rods. It's worth it.
Get forged pistons. Supertech has some on the lower end of the forged price range that would do excellently.

OEM bearings are 100% fine, just make sure they're sized correctly. There's a size guide for B series OEM bearings listed in the Engine Building/Assembly subforum.

Stock valves are fine, but get new springs and retainers. Look into Supertech.

Bullet proof with proper assembly, supporting mods, and a good tune.

 

Thank you, Chance EG. Unfortunately, if I could get forged rods and pistons I would. I've asked for this specific setup because I've seen several engines with stock pistons and rods get close to this goal. I do know that the piston ringlands are the first thing to go at this power level. Granted, I don't have any information about how reliable it can be in the long run. NPR Pistons are used on several D series builds with forged rods to achieve this power reliably (maybe not so much because of their sleeves). That was the reasoning behind my questions. If it's such a bad setup and not reliable in the long run, then I'll have to be satisfied with a bolt-on N/A build.

 

Nippon pistons are free floating and your stock rods are press fit. That won't work without machining anyways. Best buy a set of forged rods at least..

 

Actually, Nippon Racing (NPR) pistons come in either free floating or press-fit. Normally they are press-fit but you can order them for aftermarket rods for $50 more. Not sure I can post eBay or any store links here.

 

It's ok for the store.. Don't do eBay, please

 

If you're grinding at the teeth for money/funds for this build, don't go turbo. 100% serious, full stop, don't do it.

 

So
For real. FI isn't for you if this is an issue

 

I appreciate you guys honesty. I asked the question because there is a lot of budget builds on E85 with stock internals or better pistons with stock rods going strong. With that said, you have more experience than me on building these engines so I respect your opinion. Just to put it in perspective, a set of Scat rods and Nippon Racing pistons would cost me about $2000 before any import fees, add that to all the other parts and it becomes very expensive quickly. If it doesn't need to be replaced, it's not going to. Anyway, that is my problem and I get the mindset where you guys are coming from.

 

Avoid those Nippons like the plague for boost, ESPECIALLY if you're going the poor man route. Ask me how I know..

 

That's unfortunate, I've seen many builds with those and found only one issue besides yours. Thank you for sharing your experience with them. I do know they have a Vitara style piston for the B16 and offer PR3, P30, P73-00 and PCT copies which they also advertise to be stronger than OEM. Which specific piston you used and had this issue? Do you have any other recommendation, maybe YCP pistons? I was going for a high compression build as I have easy access to Ethanol.

 

I ran with that mindset too; The fact Nippon had so many builds going on and didn't really see anything bad. Well.. Most of them were also pretty old. A good percentage of them were also not boosted. Overall, I could not stand behind any cast pistons for boost anymore. CP, Arias, Wiseco.. Hell, even Supertech. Just don't go cast for boost. Had I ran forged in my first build, they most likely would have survived my P2V contact when the t-belt slipped. I guess it's bittersweet really.. Had my pistons survived, I'd probably not have reworked my build to what it is now. But.. They'd have jacked up anyways because I had a wrist pin beginning to seize.

Heat marks from seizing wristpin..

Cracked piston from valve contact under boost.

 

eg6noise, your problem here is the internet. All that you have read may be true at the moment it was posted... but the real issue here is that VERY FEW people come back on and post the failure of the substandard parts... likely because of their embarrassment and the desire to avoid a hundred "I told you so's". You should really listen to people who are IN the industry and build and tune engines every day. They aren't just trying to sell you more parts... they KNOW what it takes to make one survive at the power levels that you desire, and can guide you to successfully meet your goals.

As an example: You mentioned building with Nippon pistons. These are cast pistons... just like what comes in your engine originally. Why would you replace what you have with something just like it ??? Not stronger or weaker... the same.

A long time ago, someone very wise said to me "If you can afford to build your engine twice, you can afford to do it right the first time". Sage words to remember.

 

For 300 whp i can see nippon pistons/stock b16 rods with arp 2000 used. There are many people that did succed on the nippon "turbo" version pistons but many failures begin to surface.
These failures seem to break the 500whp hope baloon builds... But for 300 to the tyre id definartely run them. Just not with a gtx2860 super spool happy turbo.
Just remember to get a set of dual valve springs from a b18cR combo with b16 cams.
If you want 300whp get a 400whp turbo. It will be easier on the rods.

On the other hands as the rest of the guys say its many times better to get the cheapest piston rod / h rod combo and be chill when you do the pulls.
You can try to save for 2-3 months for that extra 400-500$ and be much happier on the end. This "im flooring it right now and it might brake" will eat your soul

 

^Cosign