Let us use this thread to report and brainstorm the excessive vibration when the car is stopped with the engine running and brakes applied.
I own a 2014 CRV with 20k miles on it and it exhibits excessive vibration. When stopped, the RPMs = 600 (which sounds low) and the entire car vibrates wildly.
From reading several Honda forums I get an impression that the most commonly blamed part is the active engine mount, however some report that when Honda dealers replace the mounts, the issue remains.

So far I found a solution which prevents me from getting headaches and dizziness from the vibration: I started shifting into N at street lights. But having to do this is bizarre and unacceptable.

 

Today I found an absolutely unexpected method to drastically reduce the vibration. It works by having the blower on 2-3 notches. 1 notch does not reduce the vibration, but if it blows 2-3, then there is practically no vibration during stops. Now if we could only find out how to enable this mode permanently.

 

600 rpms is low, probably why your car is vibrating like that. My EF civic did that. I increased the idle slightly and it went away.

My guess here is the blower motor is pulling more power, dropping voltage, and the PCM senses this, and demands the engine to run slightly higher RPM to sustain power from the alternator? What do you think?

 

I do not have an FSM for the CRV. How do you control the idle RPMs?

My thinking exactly re blower load.

 

 

I am more thinking about finding the on-board voltage sensing pin on the ECU plug and wiring a resistor or voltage divider to it as I do not want to run the fan 100% of the time.
Some get by by turning the headlights on, which I also do not want to do. Unless of course there is an easily accessible screw on the throttle body to adjust the idle. Likely not.

 

Please don’t do that. you could create more problems and make it harder to diagnose any future electrical issues.

The easiest way to do it would be to wire a circuit to your battery terminals and place a load on that circuit. This way, it’s easy to isolate and remove if needed for diagnosis, and you don’t disturb factory wiring - which could lead to major problems in the future.

 

Uh-oh! A full time load would reduce gas mileage ways more than a confused ECU would. It would have to be at least equal to a low beam bulb or two. How do you imagine that much load fitting under the hood and not creating a fire hazard? Way too much trouble vs one or two resistors IMO.

 

Put a switch on the load circuit then. And an appropriate fuse. No more fire hazard than all the other electrical stuff under the hood.

If you put a resistor on the circuit you intend to you’ll encounter the same problems, the PCM will never see target voltage achieved and keep asking the engine to turn faster in order to produce more voltage. Might even set a DTC.

 

Having to flip a switch every time would be no different than shifting into neutral. I highly doubt that reproducing the same scenario as turning on the load would throw a DTC. It would only slightly trick the ECU's perception of the onboard voltage.

 

2015 CR-V with big idle vibro issue here. My solution was to install a K&N air filter. Idle is smooth now.

 

What are your idle RPMs in drive with the foot on brake pedal now?

 

Same rev as before idle in D depressing brake, engine warm. It’s just an acoustical phenomenon, the K&N allowing more compression wave thru the material. More low freq energy can be directed to the intake resonance, attenuating mechanical vibrations by 3dB or so. No I didn’t measure it.

 

ok guys. I also thought that 600 rpm in D with break pedal depressed is low but ☝️ the thing is that 600 rpm in D its the way it should be from the manufacturer. also in R must be 720rpm in P also in S 600rpm and my accord is doing exactly this way. So the alternator is ok and everything is ok. the only thing I have done couple days ago is the adaptation of the CVT AND the engine. the mechanic have erased all previous data of CVT AND ENGINE PARAMETERS AND have made the new adaptation. (10 minutes car was in neutral and radio and heating was off) then 5 km ride to adept the cvt (to engage trasmission in all gears) and thats all. I can tell you that it has changed it. before the rpm went down till 580-590-600 but know only till 600 rpm - 603 rpm. and consequently the vibration was reduced till 20% so I guess its normal for non hybrid car. thats all I could do, there is nothing else I can do because I have done and changed everything which can cause this issue.

 

Thanks for sharing, but this was actually a non-CVT thread.

 

the vibration comes not from cvt. it comes because the rpm goes down to low 580-590-600. (600-605 rpm should be not less) and its naturally that engine starts vibrating and the vibration goes to cabin.

 

What adaptation was that? Are you referring to the throttle position re-learn? I did that on mine and nothing changed.

 

what I can say is that mechanic nullified the engine and cvt data and start the relearning process. ( car was In N during 10 minutes and radio and heating and lights was off.) than cvt relearning process 5-7 km normal riding. that all

 

Yeah, that is called idle re-learn or throttle position re-learn. That is what I did too. It arrived at the same RPMs as previously and the engine still shakes violently in D with brakes.

 

but what about cvt relearn process ? make it too. in future I want to buy the new accord. I hope new one has no issue like this.

 

I do not have CVT

 

)) understand.

 

Guys I think there is no difference Cvt or non cvt the problem appears from the low rpm. So the solution is to understand is 600 rpm the factory mistake or there is something that is the reason of vibration. Mine vibrates very low now, no need to turn the lights on or heating to decrease the vibration but still I wish there would be no vibration like when the rpm is 720 (zero vibration). by the way while the heating is turned on the vibration is reduced because of fan is turning on and off periodically in engine compartment. So when the fan is on the rpm is increasing till 720rpm and vibration is off and when off is reducing till 600rpm. So the reason is again the rpm change. Also when the lights on, happening the same thing but the difference is that at that period when lights on rpm is always 720 there is no reduce.

 

When I am running live data the RPMs fluctuate quite a bit even though the tacho is showing roughly 550 dead on. I see anywhere from 595 to 650 gravitating towards 612-613 most of the time. This is effin' low for a 4-banger. All of my 6-cyl run 650 and no vibe. So it is a design decision which Honda deliberately made to get EPA ratings and F all. I am even contemplating buying a genuine GNA600 but they co$t an arm and a leg.

 

Would a GNA600 allow you change idle permanantly?