I have a non-abs 95 civic ex with power steering. I want to switch the power steering to a 94 integra gsr power steering rack for the quicker steering and because my racks wore out.

I know i need the u-joint from the steering wheel. Do i also need the integra ps lines? I found a guide with pictures and everything but I don’t have a junkyard integra so i need to know what ps lines to order.

The Integra ps rack has 2 holes for hoses, civic has 3 holes for hoses so I’m guessing i need the integra lines but do i really need to remove all my ps lines or just certain ones? Do i need the intgra ps reservoir?

 

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One of the two lines on the Integra are larger than a Civic and have two larger nuts on the lines. Any lines from a 94-01 Integra will work. You can find these line sets used on eBay for like $50.

You need the u-joint as you mentioned. The reservoir should be fine.

 

So to clarify, all i need to buy is this part #4 in this picture called the Power Steering Feed hose (OEM part # 53713-ST7-A23) (this part seems identical to OEM part # 53713-ST7-A03) and the u joint?

 

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So to clarify, all i need to buy is this part #4 in that picture above, called the Power Steering Feed hose (part # 53713-ST7-A23) and the u joint?

I have the rack, so I just need that hose and the u joint. Correct?

 

I gotto go home and check. I feel like there were two hoses I had to get, the feeder hose you mention and the lower lines. I will double check.

 

I appreciate it, punk0mi. What did you find?

 

I de-powered my '95 EX steering and other than parallel parking and 3-point turns I much prefer it over power-steering.

 

I want to keep my power steering HR Puffinblunts, but thanks.

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So to clarify, all i need to buy is this part #4 in that picture above, called the Power Steering Feed hose (part # 53713-ST7-A23) and the u joint?

 

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here's a pic of the 94 integra rack waiting to go on the 95 civic Ex. Notice the 2 hose holes, while the civic rack has 3 hose holes if I'm not mistaken. So I don't understand what happens to he extra hose.

Found a post by a user named Bense where he said "the Civic Reservoir also has 3 hose holes and the Integra reservoir has 2 hose holes", and that he used a civic reservoir and just plugged up the smaller 3rd line with a bolt. So I suppose that's what I will have to do.


PS rack 94 integra (far)

PS rack 94 integra (close)



95 Civic Power Steering Rack (notice the 3 hose holes)

 

I have a 95 integra LS and a 93 si

It looks like the extra line on the civic rack runs back to PS reservoir
The integra reservoir is missing the extra nipple
The clean way to do it would be to get an reservoir from an integra, but you could cap the extra inlet on the reservoir in a pinch

hope this helps...good luck

also isn't the integra rack slower ?

 

OK I see thanks I should do it clean like that.

As I remember I understood it, and can someone here confirm but pretty sure:

The 95 civic EX and all EG Civic Power steering is 3.6 turns lock to lock
The 94 Integra power steering rack is 3.2 turns lock to lock. (but is just like 5% harder to turn)

 

I completed this today but still waiting for alignment. Must remove bitch pin to get steering rack out. I didn't have to remove the inner tie rods.

i can't get the top bolt of the new u-joint to go in without messing the threads up???

i didn't notice a difference between the integra u-joint vs the civic u-joint either.

 

Align bolt into groove. See service manual.

 

Thanks muellersfan, that worked.

i test drove it and everything is fine except i have some noticeable left-right play in the steering wheel. Makes it funny to drive. I was wondering if it could be this new auto zone steering rack needs adjusted? I found this picture? Could this be my problem?

***nevermind ! problem was that the replacement bolt i used on the u joint didn't have the exact same counter sink as the original and must torque it to 16 ft lbs, or take it off and bang the u joint on the steering wheel spline end so that it closes that gap a lil bit more.



thanks

 

I was driving and something feels funny like it's wandering when i steer on turns and seems like steering wheel doesn't go back to center as fast? (No signs of the clock spring being broken.)

i centered the steering wheel and then i turned it about 1.4 turns to the left to get to full lock, and then it took about 1.6 turns to get from center to get full lock to the right. So it wasn't even although i just got an alignment. So i figured I should even it out by unbolting the u-joint again after getting steering wheel straight then driving forward a bit and hitting a bump so the car wheels went exactly straight, then i unbolted the u joint and slid it off and straightened the steering wheel then bolted the u joint back on. Now it takes exactly 1.5 turns to left and right from center.

I can't tell for sure if everythings normal yet. It doesn't seem like it's pulling to either side but steering wheels not straight when I'm going straight i guess because of that correction i had to make. but I noticed my passenger upper ball joint is bad. I'm not sure why they aligned my car with a bad upper ball joint and play in the steering wheel from play in that u joint and it not taking even amount of steering wheel turns to get from center to Lock to Lock. They also never gave me a printout of the alignment results. I'm gonna replace the ball joint and get aligned somewhere else.

 

Return the car to the original shop that did the alignment. They should have adjusted the tie rods to center your steering wheel.

 

When I replaced my rack, when I had them do the alignment afterwards I had the guy makes sure the tie rods were equal length and not worry about the wheel

After the alignment I went home and disconnected the colum from the rack and made the wheel straight and reconnected it

I wanted to the tie rods to be as close to the same length as possible

 

A good alignment guy would/should do both without asking.

 

I go back to the alignment shop Monday but idk if alignment is gonna fix this because I've never had alignment fix this kind of problem before. The car drives straight and strong at high speeds. What else could be the problem if alignment doesn't fix it? Could the new rack need adjusted with that special tool and procedure I mentioned above?

 

I just took the wheels off to replace the passenger upper ball joint before taking it back to alignment shop Monday and I found the passenger brake line was stretched tight against and under the tie rod rubber boot.
i tied that brake line up and away and replaced the ball joint then checked for other loose joints again but found none although I'm randomly hearing and feeling something popping by my left foot when driving, especially on slow turns bit that's been a problem for a month or so.
I drove it again and it feels like it needs an alignment but may be turning better.

 

Here
is my alignment results.
car drives better but still I'll be driving straight and suddenly it will wander a lil to the side then stop wandering like nothing happened. I give up

 

None of this sounds good - please take into a professional.

 

What about my alignment results, should I complain about them?