If I have to swap my engine. I’m looking at JDM engines with low mileage. I was told that the jDM30 is the swap and increase horsepower. I suppose I would just use my current eDU right? Is there a better swap than the V6. I know the performance upgrades are limited. For a non complicated swap what will give the best results ?

 

I'm not sure who told you a JDM engine would improve your power, but I believe that is completely false.

If I was needing to replace a J30A1 and wanted more power, I'd be inclined to look at a J32A1 or even a J35A1.

 

Japanese variants of US engines are usually the same.
F22B(SOHC VTEC) JDM= F22B1 USDM
F23A = F23A1
H22A= H22A1
You are not going to find any notable power improvements in a J30A over a J30A1.

 

So you think I should just stick with the V6 for horse and speed ?

 

New message from: jdmwestcoastinc (310)

This is the Japanese Spec J30A, so it will have a slightly higher output of HP

 

What about the j32a that’s pretty good swap correct ?

 

How much more adds would I have for the swap on the J35a1 could I use most of my current parts ?

 

What would be the least complicated with not having more modifications to do the swap ? Should I go with a straight swap with the same engine I have ? I’m getting to know it pretty well since I started working on it. I never really worked on cars other than my Del Sol and most of it I did along with a mechanic friend years ago. So I’ve got a good amount invested now that I don’t want to get rid of the car. Shot I bought tent so I could paint it in my apartment complex. Lol

 

I began to prepare my V6 for removal. I can’t drop it so I’m going to lift it out without the tranny. I have the JDM engine being shipped when I’m ready. I am going to harbor freight to buy a engine lift for 149. Sunday. I hope that this will get my car back on the road. After I got it on mark and running without stall. I took it for a drive and it began to overheat. So with that said I decided to purchase the other engine. No power and heavy black carbon out exhaust. Over heating and backfire. I didn’t want to deal with it any longer. So I hope the new engine will be the solution.

Jdm j30a dist

Getting it ready to paint and clear coat too

 

Ok I pulled the engine from the top of my 98 Accord Coupe. I separated the auto transmission to stay with the vehicle along with the harnesses. I removed the air consider from the mount to stay with vehicle taking the oil filter and mount off so I could lift without any problems. I didn’t want to take my axel and the bottom have of my car when it made more since to just lift it out. I left the drive plate with the engine. So I had to remove it to install on the JDM 30a. I also have to remove the passenger mount from my A1 due to the mount on the JDM bolt holes off half inch. I am using my intake manifold and keeping the fuel injection attached. Removed the power steering since mine is still hooked up. Removing the Drive Plate and the Twelve point bolts was a chore. 30 years and rusted. I used a breaker bar to remove each one and they were almost as difficult as my crank shaft bolt. The difference I had 8 to do. I installed new mounts for the engine and bought a new radiator. It was plastic and much lighter. Guaranteed for life so I couldn’t say no to that. I sanded the rust off the plate after removing and oils it for install. I have a question about the hole in the bolt plate. I see the hole on the crank shaft when the drive plate is attached you can see the hole through the drive plate. Do I just put it in the same location when I do the bolts by order. I planed to drop it tomorrow. I haven’t found much info regarding this or lifting the engine out. So I have improvised though out the swap

Engine on the way out

Drive Plate

 

Got the engine started today only one code but not happy had to remove the crank bolt and replace the crank position sensor that was giving me the code 335
I had a new one on my other engine so I removed it and used. I didn’t take off the timing belt. I did replace all the vacuum lines and most of the heat , cooling and fuel in the engine bay

New engine. But didn’t look as new as my old engine. My old engine was much better condition and not as used. I even replaced my oil cap for my old engine because this one was looking bad

Engine installed

 

Engine done , exhaust finished , interior almost finish. Just did both auto locks today. Next I will paint and tint the windows. I’m going to cut out a vent from the hood. I’m fabricating a hood scoop that I’ll weld on. Here’s a few pics of the interior thus far

Just finishing the Pioneer stereo install 6 1/2 four way in doors and 6 x9 five way in rear with amp pushing the speakers and powered sub in trunk for bass . New carpet and recovered one seat new Honda floor mats.

 

You're chugging along pretty good.
I would suggest replacing the timing belt, even if the engine has low miles the belt also should be timed out and replaced. If you have no idea how old the belt is it would be best to replace it to avoid having to pull heads if the belt snaps. Ideal time to adjust valves if you haven't already, too tight of valves can cause misfires and crappy performance.
If the engine has been sitting for a while it can get a little cruddy looking on the bare aluminum bits from corrosion, some importers use caustic cleaners that can also strip off paint and markings which can make the engine look aged and streaky.

What is the hood scoop for?

 

I tore out the old air intake box in the front drivers side fender. I wanted to create better air flow by cutting out the a area I found to be just above the K&N filter I’ve begun to fabricate a steel sheet into a 10 x 7 x 1 scoop that I’ll wield the my hood that I have to strip down to metal due to the cracking it endured from the factory paint. I finished the interior but I have to reinstall the camera to my pioneer I got the trigger hooked into my system power do when car starts the screen goes black. Your right Mike about the Belt all the belts need replacement. They are looking worn. I took the valve covers off my old engine. The valves were clean and look good. I cleaned up the covers and sealed them to paint. Then I’ll swap with the JDM that are beat up a bit. Ran the engine for a bit tonight and had the air conditioning running to see how it faired. Fans can on then shut off engine remained idle. Rain very smooth. Tomorrow I’ll take it for a spin Cautiously. I don’t have lights or bumpers on the car. I took it all of for paint. Here are some current photos. Interior and disguise of

Exhaust

Waiting for some love

All new interior except lower drivers seat

Powered sub
the car

 

im sure the J35 will fit in the cg chassis especially if its already a V6 cg BUT my question is will the hood close all the way?

 

My understanding is the J35A1 will fit; that said, I've never done it, so before starting a swap, take some measurements of the J30 being replaced, and compare them to a J32 or J35. Assuming the distance between the center of the harmonic balancer bolt and the upper edge of the intake manifold and/or the top of the valve covers is the same, all you may need to do is to reuse your intake plenum for the new motor.

 

All good the stumble in drive acceleration was map sensor I had bought from Amazon was bad. I replaced the cap and rotor because I was no getting the power in first. It feels like the engine is being held back until it shifts to second. I’m sure but maybe shift solenoid. In second it revs up takes off fine. Found it to be the Vtec module and sensor I put on from original V6 engine J30a1 was larger than JDM so I replaced the JDM sensor and solenoid fixed it right up. Runs great just have to drive with expired plates in order to ready it for smog. It passed but they failed me due to headers here in CA. Put out paper weights back on and I get o2 codes. I can see why constricting the flow . Got it in order but have to drive 100 miles to ready. Here is the finished project

New 98 accord

98 Honda Accord coupe V6 modified

 

I got the timing belt done along with valve springs and put adjustable coil overs overs. Can bars. I am now considering j35 swap. What would I need other than the engine. Is my EcU comparable and harness? I want to know before I start buying. Also which J35a4 ? There seems like from pilots to vans etc. my pilot has j35 and it’s 4x4 but I’ll leave the engine in it for now. It’s a 2006 with 82,000 miles

 

Nice work, you did it from beginning to end. And you made it unique. At this point, I would just drive it and enjoy.

 

I always found that creating something was the fun part. I never could just let something alone and drive it. Still cant.