Hey guys i have a css block with a water cooled 6262 turbo. Im trying to figure out how to get my car to run cooler. If i cruise around normally with out going into high boost the car runs at normal operating temperature with no issues. If i do 1 or 2 full throttle pulls the coolant temp needle goes to the second notch pass the middle normal indication. The car did great on the dyno, not problems or leaks. I think that the turbo is making the water temp very hot. Im running the lines from the block drain into the turbo and out back to the water pipe. The car idles fine at normal temp and the fan is working properly. But after full throttle pulls the engine runs hot. Should i route my water lines differently or do i need a bigger radiator? I currently run a skunk2 half rad and i dont have space for a bigger one.

 

The turbo is fine (although Precision doesn't make water cooled 6262s), but you may need to relocate the water pipe to either radiator or throttle body. Check fan efficiency, too. Just because the fan operates doesn't mean it works effectively. You may have a weak fan.

 

No bigger than that water line is to the turbo I doubt that’s the issue, mine will hold 180 during fall and winter but when temps get over 80 my car holds around 190. I’m going to get a stronger fan for my radiator and see if that resolves things, because mine will also creep up in temperature after a pull or 2 ..... I also use the same radiator

 

Its a boostlab 6262 dual ball bearing turbo. The fan is aftermarket not sure what brand. The lines are a 6an size. Are you saying to route the line from the turbo to the throttle body instead of the water pipe? Right now I dont have any coolant lines going to the throttle body. The car was recently put together and its been 80s and 90s here in Philadelphia. I wonder if this issue would go away in the winter.

 

u should use cold water from engine block to turbo. from turbo back to radiator but on top (hot side). dont use the low position from radiator.

 

Post what fan you are running so we can look up the specs.

I was having a similar issue and it was an inefficient fan. Upgraded to this:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...SABEgJP6_D_BwE

I hooked mine up to a relay..

or you can just change your fuse out to a 40 amp fuse... @TheShodan recommended it in my thread where I was having issues and it resolved my car running hot, but not before it got my head gasket, so be careful.

 

I hear conflicting reports on this, a lot of people say run it to the bottom of radiator... perhaps for a cleaner look. Anybody know the verdict? Is it really that much of a difference in cooling, and that important, putting the line on top of the radiator?

 

It's ok that the connection is at the bottom of the radiator. You're fine there. There is no real difference in cooling there.

As for the water neck vs. Throttle body, it also may not make a difference either with the amount needed.

 

Thanks guys. All of you are very helpful. I decided to run the line to the bottom of the radiator and keep the other line in front of the block drain port. I found a go-autoworks radiator triple core that already has the bung welded at the bottom or I may just have my radiator modified if i find a good welder.

 

problem is that hot water give hondata at coolant temp sensor some high temp. but it doesnt. 2 of my friends changed to top of radiator and hondata never show high temp or give mil because overheat. try bottom but we tested all and in honda tech are some of this problems too. use the search function und u will see

 

I understood nothing from this statement. Please re-write.

 

off topic question/suggestion:
you should get rid of the vacuum block and you could run all your lines to the victor X manifold. it has the ports on the underside of it so you can plug all the vacuum line to the manifold.

 

Actually no.. He's good. Great use of the Vacuum manifold using the brake booster as the master vacuum source. He can route a few things from the intake manifold from that point. In fact, if he uses that as the basis for the other vacuum based system, he'll be good to go for any change he might need.

It's the vent on the valve cover that's a problem. He won't vent enough crankcase with that little damn thing.

 

Even more off topic...lol:

Why does the power steering hard line y the PS fill canister only have 1 hard line and not 2 like I usually see?

 

I'm assuming/hoping the catch can in the top left is hooked into the back of the block.

Could try heat wrapping your hot pipes to see if that has any impact. And if you're not running a Spal fan, you should be.

 

Had a buddy have these issues it was the oil passage under the feed fitting wasn’t drilled all the way so the oil wasn’t cooling/lubing the turbo so the coolant system did all the work he took the coolant lines off for a 1 mile drive and killed a brand new gt3076r

 

Maybe also wrap the downpipe? It looks both steep (more temp) and very very close to the rad. Aluminum lets the heat pass thought it very fast but both ways.
It may still be water routing but almost glowing stainless steel vs a 1.5mm aluminum wall that close well...Temp in form of radiation is "wind proof" and can definately heat the water throuth aluminum.
Also as the fellas said fan might be a problem and if you dont use a GOOD fan you better not run a shroud at all.

 

That's only part of a good catch can system. Back of the block still builds pressure

 

Yes the catch can is going to the back ports on the block and i recently got a new valve cover with fittings for the catch can. I like the heat wrap idea even if it does not solve the cooling issue because after installing the ramhorn manifold the engine bay gets very hot and i can hear the turbo water line boiling. Back when i had my inline pro log manifold the engine bay did not get as hot and i was not using a water cooled turbo either. I hope relocating the lines work along with the heat wrap. Thanks for all your input guys.

 

That's normal for water cooled turbos during the siphoning process after the engine has shut down. Check that FAQ white paper on turbo water cooling

 

My go-autoworks 3 core radiatior just came in. Overall it looks good. Noticed some damaged fins out of box but nothing looks broken so im going to install it. I did email them just incase i have any issues. I also ordered heat wrap for the downpipe and a turbo blanket. Hopefully the heat issues will go away. I will update you guys on the outcome.

 

Care to share the link? I couldn't find it in the FAQ thread. There's a LOT of broken links in there btw...in case you were ever bored and wanted to clean them up and make them work again.

 

And broken pics, and ancient info. My complaints of the past have fallen upon deaf ears on this front. Lol! I can say that while my requests to begin reconstruction may have been ignored, at least I wasn't flamed and bashed like over at DSO. lol!

 

Although I can't speak about other forum-specific mods, I've personally been cleaning that FAQ Grey section up for hours at a time over the course of the last two years, in addition to creating articles for the FAQs, linking YOUTUBE vids that are more topic-relevant, and renaming badly written topic titles to better reflect the very questions the majority of you are researching and asking about. All the new stuff has been highlighted in Blue to help emphasize the more important articles and white papers., with refreshed links.

One must attempt to look thoroughly not only at the FAQ Grey section, but the other grey-highlighted areas and not expect the topic to slap them in the face as though it were a Reddit news article.

Once archived links are broken they can't be reconnected to their original content if that content came from an older server that was perhaps moved or replaced, even if that link were recent. H-T has easily gone through 3-6 of them over the course of 15 years, which is an element that no moderator can prevent or control. So, while you're bitching and moaning about broken links, you can still help yourself out by also going through Google to check the H-T archives with specific key words to add to your search criteria. That search will result in direct threads of that same content you couldn't find by a link to be recovered. Or, if the broken link issue is really chapping your ***, you may want to quit yappin' and instead step-up to the plate and help with the cause by requesting to be a specialist mod that helps with archiving and organization. There's no $$ in your pocket, but it beats crying about it later. That way you know when a link may need recovery or better content, you can help update the information for others to see instead of allowing the same questions to be revived and recirculated without any new information; Which is why some of us became mods in the 1st place.... To help the cause, and keep the tech in the Tech forums..

I can't always walk everyone through the process no matter what links come up or not. That's why I gave the guideline of where to start

So, please be kind, as this is one of the only tech forums that regularly gets modified to have more recent and relevant information. Sadly..

 

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