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Hey Honda-Tech, long time lurker but first time poster.
I bought this 1988 Integra LS off of the forums here at 90-91k miles with a blown automatic transmission. The car was in awesome condition it had good amount of receipts and was incredibly clean - picked it up for $1200 about 2 hours from my house and called AAA to bring it home for me, that was the start of the build.
Updated mod list
----Front Cusco strut tower brace Cheddas extended top hats Tein struts Tein torsion bars Prothane Polyurethane bushings ST suspension smaller sway bar Fastbrakes 11" kit Powerstop evolution carbon ceramic pads Fastbrakes re manufactured late model caliper Stainless steel brake lines
----Rear Tein Coilovers Cheddas auto adjustable panhard bar Prothane Polyurethane bushings ST suspension sway bar Stoptech sport slotted rotors Stoptech sport pads
Plans for the B18C1
Bottom End ARP Main Stud Kit ARP rod bolts CP pistons 81.5mm SKU SC7016 CP Rods Rod Length 137.9mm OEM bearings OEM Type R Oil Pump OEM Type R Water Pump
Head Stock cams ARP Studs Manley Valves Supertech dual springs and retainers 85lb Skunk 2 Adjustable Cam Gears .04 head gasket 81mm OEM GSR Timing Belt
First thing was first, manual transmission, pedals, intermediate shaft and shift linkage.
The pedals were a gigantic pain in the ***, and I lost my cruise control because I didn't get cruise control pedal set, no big deal though. I need to get some new pedal covers also.
New rear main seal, oil pan gasket, and clutch.
Picked up this set of rear mudflaps for $20 off of eBay.
The shifter was really old and incredibly sloppy so I picked up this short shifter with all new solid shift linkage bushings, wow what a difference these made. Not sure how this happened. Picked up some Hondabond. My cylinder position sensor was leaking so I replaced the O-ring and put some Hondabond around the hole.
Last edited by JoshCampbell88; Aug 22, 2019 at 08:06 PM.
Tucked the Bluetooth stereo I got into the glovebox for a bit of a cleaner look, and for when I do my swap I want to put my gauges where the factory stereo goes. ST suspension swaybar B16 head and intake manifold Prothane bushings Adjustable panhard with polyurethane
Welcome to the forums - loving the first gen teg! I am posting a slow story about my second DA - my premature "mid-life" car / ode to my youth - but never really saw much love for the first gens. What's the plan once the manual conversion is complete?
Welcome to the forums - loving the first gen teg! I am posting a slow story about my second DA - my premature "mid-life" car / ode to my youth - but never really saw much love for the first gens. What's the plan once the manual conversion is complete?
Hey there thanks I'm trying to post more pictures but I have to wait for them to be approved my a moderator, so far to put in I have a b18c1 with a pr3-3 head I want to put some low boost to for around 300whp I just need to save some money for the rebuild because I've been buying everything else first.
Mod list
----Front
Cusco strut tower brace (on the way, UPS lost the package)
Cheddas extended top hats
Tein struts
Tein torsion bars
Prothane Polyurethane bushings
AC Delco control arms
ST suspension smaller sway bar
Fastbrakes 11" Drilled and Slotted rotors and performance pads
OEM remanufactured late model calipers
Stainless steel brake lines
----Rear
Tein Coilovers
Cheddas auto adjustable panhard bar
Prothane Polyurethane bushings
ST suspension sway bar
Stoptech sport slotted rotors
Stoptech sport pads
Last edited by JoshCampbell88; Jul 31, 2019 at 11:58 AM.
Interior shot, the seats are really clean so I use a blanket for now so I don't get grease on the tan color cloth Extended top hats from Cheddas Auto B16 head, b18c1 block and another GSR head.
I like where this thread is going, keep up the great work op!
Also what are your plans for the engine build?
SAVE THE POPUPS
Thanks to both of you!
So far this is my plans for the engine build, but I'm really not sure 100% - my power goal is more than likely going to stay at around 300 wheel but absolutely no more than 350 wheel.
--Bottom End
ARP Main Stud Kit
ARP rod bolts
CP pistons 81.5mm SKU SC7016
CP Rods Rod Length 137.9mm
OEM bearings
OEM Type R Oil Pump
OEM Type R Water Pump
--Head
Stock cams
ARP Studs
Manley Valves
Supertech dual springs and retainers 85lb
Skunk 2 Adjustable Cam Gears
.04 head gasket 81mm
OEM GSR Timing Belt
Nice! I'm definitely looking forward to seeing this come together.
You might know this already, but for OEM parts, I've found that lots of stuff is much cheaper from Amayama. It's an OEM parts seller based in Japan and even with the increased shipping costs you can save a ton of money. Pricey parts like oil pumps are usually 30-40% cheaper from Amayama than they are from the cheapest US-based parts sites, I've ordered from them 5-10 times and never had an issue. Just use the US sites to get the part number then search for it on Amayama.
Nice! I'm definitely looking forward to seeing this come together.
You might know this already, but for OEM parts, I've found that lots of stuff is much cheaper from Amayama. It's an OEM parts seller based in Japan and even with the increased shipping costs you can save a ton of money. Pricey parts like oil pumps are usually 30-40% cheaper from Amayama than they are from the cheapest US-based parts sites, I've ordered from them 5-10 times and never had an issue. Just use the US sites to get the part number then search for it on Amayama.
That's awesome thanks a lot for the info I'll definitely use it when I'm ready
Even the bead blaster had a hard time taking the undercoating off of the trailing arms This **** really doesn't like to come off, letting it soak in this before I hit it with a wire wheel
Just in case anyone is wondering about the trailing arm polyurethane bushings for the CRX, they fit but you have to reuse the sleeve from the stock bushing, so drill the rubber out and clean it up.
Didn't know these 1st gens came with a single beam instead of rear LCAs; leaves a lot to be desired, imo. Good luck.
As far as I know it's the same suspension as the CRX, a lot of the parts transfer over I've noticed, all the bushings, struts and everything were for both cars. The tein front torsion bars actually required the use of CRX torsion tubes since they're shorter.
I'm not going to be tracking this car so I don't need crazy handling, it will be perfect for me which is just a street car and canyons.
Where are you located? This brings back memories form about 16 years ago when I put mine together with the B18C5 and a hydro LSD trans with turbo. Still daily driving it.