Made a post in the EF forum but i figured the stance guys were stumped so cross posting here. Car is 91 crx


All my suspension has spherical bushings. Went from PW JDM rear toe arms to the PCI arms because the pwjdm are shorter than OEM and have more dramatic bump/toe curves. With the toe adjustment on maximum toe-in, my toe in the rear is stuck to a significnt amount of toe out. I'm feathering the inner shoulders of the tires HARD. I'll need new tires within 1k miles. Lowered 1 inch. Rear camber is set at -2.5. Alignment rack shows .5 degrees toe out on left rear, and .2 degrees out on right rear. Right rear isn't feathering near as bad. Anyone else have this issue?

On the plus side, hard right turns feel really cool once the rear loads and side steps a bit. I can really mash on the throttle early like that. Definately not a sustainable alignment though cause it scrubs pretty hard, hence the hardcore feathering on the inside shoulder.

 

Did you call PCI?
Try contacting Brian @PCI and see what his input is.

 

If all else fails..do you have room to grind the toe adjustment slot in by an 1/8 -1/4 (toward the center of the car)? Nice thing is that all the way in will be 0 toe if you take out just enough, then go toe out as you need it.

 

I called the guy at PCI and he said my rear trailing arm might be bent. he also said the other version of these arms are an inch and a half shorter and would be showing different problems if I was sent the wrong ones. Anyone know how to check if the trailing arm is bent? I replaced my trailing arm bushings with the PCI units and didn't notice a single thing wrong with them.... i have no idea how they'd be bent.

 

Id take the guy you spoke to at face value for now.
Recheck the control arms.
PCI tests their parts at the track and are built to exacting measurements.
Those are some odd ball numbers you have there.
If you weren't the original owner, its possible that the car could of been in some sort of mishaps, and wasn't fixed properly.
I have seen some of the older Honda owners who race wheel to wheel take their cars to a body shop to see if the vehicle is straight.
You'd be surprised how many track a bit off..
Do you notice any clunking or noises from the rear end?
Perplexed to say the least.

 

I'm perplexed as well.... also I stalled new timken wheel bearings all around. Everything feels solid. No clunks. All sphericals are behaving well.

Had the frame checked and the guy said all points he measured are within 1/16 or less from factory specs. I'd say that's fkn amazing for a car with 322k on the clock. Granted, the car was never pushed till I started driving it 2 years ago.

I'm so lost right now. I'm curious what other ppl get for toe when lowered 1 inch on PCI arms and -2.5 camber, or how close they are to the limit of toe adjustment.

My tires hate me. Since I'm rolling on OEM steelies, all the extra slip angle makes the tires leak air slowly. Refilling the rear tires every few days. Rims are slightly bent but hold air fine untill you drive the **** off it. Or in my case, have a lot of static toe.

I'll be getting some proper rims soon, just waiting until I can source some DA uprights for the front

 

Pull the trailing arm in question give it a real hard look.
Id say Jeremy Croiset would be the CRX expert to contact, but he hasnt visited this site in eons.

 

I also cant zero my toe with my PCI toe links... I know my car has seen some abuse, but mostly up front. I'm on 100% PCI everything, my arms aren't bent (but they aren't original to the car either). I'm actually not upset about it because where it maxes out is where I want it. I'd just like easier adjustment as we run different rear toe at both tracks we frequent in the MA.

I'm 99% sure that all rear trailing arms will "work" across the chassis but they are NOT the same... 1/16 of an inch here or there and its going to make a difference.

that being said, DO NOT notch your "torque box." I'm probably going to my local jeep shop and make a set of adjustable/sphericals that I can lock my tq box side and use jam nuts.

 

When you say lock, do you mean mark a reference point on both sides for your zero and cinch it down? or fix the adjustment bolt somehow? I would think with a jam nut setup you could get your toe link's length (with a digital caliper) both sides for each track then not have to worry about stringing the car etc (probably shorter link for VIR, longer for SMSP). Good idea =-) Something akin to a spherical rear sway bar endlink w/jam nut (grade 10) might give you enough length.

 

for summit I'm in the 1/16-/18th range... for VIR I'm in the 0 range. bumping the stock setup (the PCI is a really nice stock setup) sucks... I'd rather give it a half turn and measure.

 

what trailing arm bushing are you using?

 

I'm on the OG first gen PCI bushings.

 

rubber or spherical?

if the trailing arm bushing is not properly positioned, or is bound up and does not have the freedom to move left/right, or is too far over in/out, that would limit your ability to set rear toe.

theres a very specific distance the oem rubber bushing needs to be pressed in and needs to be done properly.

 

its the older bronze bushing setup that PCI put together.

 

try unbolting the toe link and just see if you can move the whole trailing arm in and out, up and down freely.

 

I came across this post in a google search.

I'm encountering this same problem with toe out as detailed in the following post, with +0.2 degrees (toe-out) being the lowest toe value I can attain:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/suspen.../#post52268691

It seems that most likely culprit, is a bent trailing arm as a result of hammering in the bushings to install them, instead of using a 'pressing apparatus'.

A possible solution, is to expand the toe connection hole on the arm itself, from a circle to that of can oval as seen on one of the bushings bolt housing. The hole is expanded towards the exterior of the vehicle. This will force the compensator arm to be further away from the most inner location of the toe nut track housing in the car itself.

There's a thread here on honda-tech talking about how the compensator arm should be the exact same length, to ensure a proper 'dynamic toe'. The modification of the trailing arm I'm talking about seems to fit this 'rule'.

Used trailing arms for 3rd gen Integras are $200 shipped on eBay, and is in used condition.