Similar "point" is on both sides of the car, few inches infront on the of the rear wheels (or where the seats would be).

I have a starter hydraulic jack which is sadly too short to raise the car from the rear tow/jack point.

 

Use a stable point on the trailing arm. Unless you're trying to get that off, of course.

 

That should NOT be considered a viable jacking point for a variety of reasons.

 

My floor jack is broken so I had to use a trolley jack to lift up my parts car. I put it on some cement patio stones and that worked perfect. I've also put wood boards underneath. Just have to go slow and make sure the jack doesn't roll off to one side and have the car crashing down.

 

Was not a viable jacking point for me it caved in my whole rad support and the dent can be seen from above. If the the metal around that area was new and rust free it may work and not dent much but i still wouldnt do it.

 

I put a block of wood, and have jacked it up from there, to get an extra inch or 2 of clearance, while loosening the compensator arm bolt and track-nut (I have to to hold with vise grips for obvious reasons). Keep in mind, other side of vehicle was resting on jack stand while I did this. For other rear suspension work, I put a block of wood under the subframe, (structure where the inner part of the lower control arms are closest to each other), and jack up from there.

Do not do the following, as it will weaken/damage the bushings or bend the trailing arm itself:

 

you don't want to damage that area..

Not sure why you won't use the jack point thats right there under the rocker panel...