I have a 2000 civic sedan. I swapped it to b18b1 and to a manual. It started and ran for a few days then one morning didn't want to start. It only starts sometimes now. It's very random. When it don't start it don't make any noise what so ever. I turn the key all the way and it don't click or anything at all. My cluster shows that I am in park so I am 90% positive I wired the auto to manual right. I tested the battery and starter and they are both good. Checked fuses and they are good. Could it be the ignition switch? Or somewhere the wiring is frayed or messed up?? Please help!!! It only randomly starts, and then 70% of the time does not start!

 

When the engine does not start, turn key to ON(II) position. Does the fuel pump prime? Does the CEL turn on for 2 seconds and then turn off?

 

Yes it turns on and then turns off, dash lights come on and so will headlights, when I fully start the dash lights come off as normal

 

Are you referring here^ to the fuel pump priming/running for 2 seconds?

If so, connect a wire to the (+) battery post.

Put transmission in neutral and set parking brake.

Unplug starter solenoid wire.

Touch hot wire to starter solenoid pin.

Does the starter crank the engine?

 

Yeah i can hear the fuel pump prime for 2 seconds

 

Do this:

Connect a wire to the (+) battery post.

Put transmission in neutral and set parking brake.

Unplug starter solenoid wire.

Touch hot wire to starter solenoid pin.

Does the starter crank the engine?

 

I got the starter tested at AutoZone and it passed easy, but I will try that when I get home

 

It's informative to test the starter function in place, but you can also test whether battery voltage reaches the disconnected starter solenoid wire when the key is held in ON(III), of course when the engine won't crank.

 

Okay I'll check when I'm off and reply thank you

 

Okay so when my car does not start, I took a wire to the positive terminal and took the little wire to the soliniod of the starter and it sparked a bit but does not start! Omg so sad I hate this lol

 

If you are convinced that the starter is good, the next step is to carefully clean and tighten the two important ground wire connections in the starter circuit:

Both G3 transmission to chassis ground connections

Both G1 battery (-) post to chassis ground connections

 

Okay so they are both tight but I did paint my engine bay before the swap, could that be an issue? How would I insure I have a solid ground? Just sand the area down? Could it be the wiring to the ignition? Or the ignition itself. It's really confusing because it worked before the swap and sometimes works still. I am highly doubting it is the ignition switch itself or the starter and battery. It has to be wiring or ground. I just don't know where to track it down

 

Your test result RULES OUT the ignition switch.

Remove ground bolts and clean off corrosion and paint with wire brush or wheel.

Rent thread restorer kit from AutoZone to clean paint and corrosion from ground bolt hole threads.

https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...kit/391372_0_0

Fire up engine and drive.

 

Okay so I sanded it and it started but it could have just started like a random time so I'm going to wait an hour or 2 to get back to you and see. Thank you so much by the way!

 

The rental tool is free at AutoZone. Get it.

Clean all G1 and G3 ground bolts and holes thoroughly to make fix permanent. You do NOT want to worry about the car breaking down again.

 

Yeah the guy who helped me swap said it's fine to just put the ground in, I painted the bay before putting the motor in so I was concerned if that is an issue but he said it shouldn't be, maybeit just was lol

 

Engine bay painting is well known to cause problems with ground connections.

 

Just started car again and all seems good, I'll message back if anything happens later or ever again. Thank you all for helping me I really appreciate it!!