I've read post on how to check the ignition wires with multimeter. I'm no mechanic, but I will try to follow along. Before I start I would like to know what it means when fuse 13 doesn't light up, when powered on. I'm getting the flashing green key routine. Acs fuse underhood is not blown and fuse 13 inside car isn't blown either.
Is their a quicker and easieser way to diagnose this problem.
Thanks

Wally

 

Maybe I didnn't express myself correctly. I URGENTLY NEED HELP. This POS Honda has left me walking for two months. It started with misfires on all six cylinders and trouble codes for EGR valve clogged. Cleaned it.Cleared. Then it was code for map sensor. Replaced. Cleared. Then vacume leak misfires all cylinders. Called mechanic. Said was probable ignition coil gone bad. Replaced. Didn't work. Ignition control module replaced. No joy. No fire to plugs. Plugs and wires new. Back probed injectors wire. No problems. Then found out about green light on website. Looked and its lite. Checked fuses engine compartment. All good. Checked drivers side fuse, all good but fuse #13. Goes to starter. Didn't light test light. All others did. I've just started back to college and don't have a lot of time or money. Found complicated diagnostics test on web. Need to know if there is a quick and dirty way at resolving this ****.
Thank you

 

Driver’s under-dash Fuse No. 13 (7.5A) provides voltage (+) with the ignition in the START (III) position (i.e.,cranking). Otherwise, there is no power at that fuse, which is the start input.

If the Immobilizer light is blinking, then it may be due to a weak battery or the Immobilizer System is not recognizing the key transponder. Check the battery first. A weak battery may have enough juice to turn the starter motor (it will turn with 9 or 10 volts), but, not enough to run the other electrical systems, particularly the PCM. With a weak battery the Immobilizer System and PCM can't communicate.

Other options:

• Try to start the car with a different key to the car.
• Get the Immobilizer Brake Code. The Immobilizer brake code is a 5 digit numeric code that is enter by using sequences of moves with the ignition switch and parking brake. The brake code is obtained from the dealer. If it starts, you can try reprogramming, testing wires, substituting PCM, etc.

 

Thanks tech8. Battery is new. Will check with dealership Monday. I thought I book marked an older testing guide but must be on desktop. Do you know of any step by step guide on what wires to check. When I try and start the car the green light flashes four times. Any significance to the number of flashes?
If I can't get this car running, do you know of a way to bypass this worthless security junk?

 

There are immobilizer emulator boards available on ebay for less than $20.

Installation instructions and board type for your Accord is the second type at the bottom of these instructions.

https://www.obdii365.com/upload/serv...ser-manual.pdf

 

tech8, Your a scholar and a gentlemen. I will call the dealership in the morning for the code. Should that not work does this sound right.

Assuming the remote start system is NOT playing a part in this problem, you can check the
following.
1. Disconnect the 5P connector (A) from the immobilizer receiver unit (B).
2. Check for voltage between no.1 terminal and body ground. You should see battery voltage.
3. Check for continuity between the no.4 terminal and body ground. You should see continuity.
4. Check for continuity between the no.2 terminal and the ECU. You should see continuity
between the terminal and ECU (red wire, A25 at the ECU).
5. Check for continuity between the no.3 terminal and the ECU. You should see continuity
between the terminal and ECU (blue wire, A13 at the ECU).
If you get to any of these steps and don't see the required voltage or continuity, let us know, and
we'll see what the recommended fix action is.
If you get through all of these procedures successfully, Honda recommends that you replace the
immobilizer receiver unit.

 

tech8, while I wait for an immobilizer bypass chip, if I take this old immobilizer chip off the ecu board, will the car be able to start?