Open ended lug nut options, what do you run?
Currently I am running extended ARP studs at all 4 corners with a 20MM spacer up front with a Muteki short spline drive lug nut. I don't know how good the quality of these lugs are and was looking for what is currently the best on the market for road course work. What are folks using? With all of the options out there, what have proven track reliability (assuming the lugs are secured with a proper torque wrench)?
The cheapest steel lug nuts I can find. I'm using something similar to these. They work great!
Check out these lug nuts, cheap and positive reviews.
https://www.yitamotor.com/search?type=product&q=honda++lug+nuts
https://www.yitamotor.com/search?type=product&q=honda++lug+nuts
I ran the Skunk2 lugs for 5 years of track duty and daily/weekend use. Held up great but being alloy they do wear out. Probably gonna get another set, I tried some blox for my new track build and i don't know if i got some bootleg Blox or they are just
shitty. New lugs were messed up and shitty out the box. They feel so light that i don't trust them. The skunk2 were light but felt more "solid" if that makes sense.
shitty. New lugs were messed up and shitty out the box. They feel so light that i don't trust them. The skunk2 were light but felt more "solid" if that makes sense.
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I've run the gorilla lugs (same set) on the integra and the civic. i've had zero issues, they hold tight... but i'm probably due for a new set. I'm on my 3rd set of ARP studs... so i'm sure my lugs could use a replacement.
we also run the gorilla lugs on the wifes wrangler... zero issues with the street/trail stuff. but we dont rip wheels off of that nearly as often.
we also run the gorilla lugs on the wifes wrangler... zero issues with the street/trail stuff. but we dont rip wheels off of that nearly as often.
Go to Americas Tire or Wheel works, Discount Tire and get their short steel lug nuts.
Cheap and they last forever.
Ive seen some of those Muteki aluminum lugs get stuck on the extended studs before.
Cheap and they last forever.
Ive seen some of those Muteki aluminum lugs get stuck on the extended studs before.
So far Gorilla, cheap-Dilbones, skunk2, Yitamotor, cheap aluminum ebay, and Discount Tire... Any failures on track? Have you all seen consistency with holding the recommended torque during sessions?
Never had any issues with lugs loosening or anything like that. Forgot, also like 949 racing lugs and aluminum valves. Had a set of those on my daily, backup track car.
I had the muteki for one event... they got stuck on the extended ARP stud and i switched to gorilla
The cheapest steel lug nuts I can find. I'm using something similar to these. They work great!
https://www.amazon.com/KSP-M12X1-5-C...gateway&sr=8-4
https://www.amazon.com/KSP-M12X1-5-C...gateway&sr=8-4
ive heard you're not supposed to run anti-seize on the lugs but i run high temp anti-seize on mine and ive had no problems with binding/seizing
I also have Pep-Boys lugs on my Civic
I've had them for about three years.
I've never once ran anti-seize on any car. If it's a daily where the metals can react and stick together over time, then maybe it's worth it but on a track car where wheels are swapped every time you're at the track, it's not worth it.
I also have Pep-Boys lugs on my Civic
I've had them for about three years.
I also have Pep-Boys lugs on my Civic
I've had them for about three years.OP:
i usually snug mine up a bit before each session (after wheel is cooled down) havent had any problems so far and ive done about 12 track days with my car. i would avoid running aluminum/titanium lugnuts unless you're going for some sort of time attack record
I used gorilla spline drives for a long time on a Miata with no issues. Key thing to me is swapping them periodically and having spares on hand. If the nut feels anything other than silky smooth while going on it goes in the trash. Breaking a stud from a cross threaded lug nut sucks.
How tight are you guys torquing your lugs (i do 85lbs)? I run long hollow Chinese (I assume) aluminum ones. I check them after every session and usually only need to be tightened after the very first session. Haven't had any problems with cross-threading, getting stuck, breaking, etc. Same set for over two years now. On and off probably 30-50 times.
on my daily driver civic, i had the great pleasure of having to take a massive breaker bar to get multiple lugnuts off of it when i first got it and found a copious amount of aluminum powder on the studs and in the bores of the rims so im kind of in the habit of it now. but yeah..you're right.
OP:
i usually snug mine up a bit before each session (after wheel is cooled down) havent had any problems so far and ive done about 12 track days with my car. i would avoid running aluminum/titanium lugnuts unless you're going for some sort of time attack record
OP:
i usually snug mine up a bit before each session (after wheel is cooled down) havent had any problems so far and ive done about 12 track days with my car. i would avoid running aluminum/titanium lugnuts unless you're going for some sort of time attack record
Ha nah no time attack records for now, I hope to someday get some solid runs in TT when I get a comp license and phase two of the project is complete. I have to get my driving skills down in phase one first.
Last edited by Dublocivic; Jun 1, 2019 at 03:56 AM.
I've been running ARP extended studs with the Muteki steel short splined nuts for 3 (almost 4) track seasons now. Always torqued to 80 and never had any issues. Also worth mentioning, I'm constantly taking my wheels off to change brakes or fix things.
Have you had to replace any or are they the same lugs the whole time?
The lugs and studs have been the same. I have been thinking recently about replacing the lugs as they are slightly bulging from rust. Solely for that reason though!








