Rear toe arm & toe curves
This is on a 91 crx, installing the Password JDM adjustible toe arm, the one that connects on the front of the trailing arm. I remember a discussion here a while back about someone testing bump/toe curves by moving the arm in different locations in the slot in the chassis and changing the effective length of the arm. I just can't remember what he found.
So, in a moderately lowered CRX for track use, should i set the arm to be closest towards the centerline of the car? Or set it to the outside of the slot? Or should it be somewhere in between?
Side note, i noticed the password JDM adjustible toe arms are actually shorter than the OEM arms. At least, they're shorter at a minimum thread engagement. .6 inch diameter rod ends with .6 inches of minimum thread engagement. If i adjust them to OEM arm length there's only like .2 or .3 inches of thread engagement on the rod ends.
So, in a moderately lowered CRX for track use, should i set the arm to be closest towards the centerline of the car? Or set it to the outside of the slot? Or should it be somewhere in between?
Side note, i noticed the password JDM adjustible toe arms are actually shorter than the OEM arms. At least, they're shorter at a minimum thread engagement. .6 inch diameter rod ends with .6 inches of minimum thread engagement. If i adjust them to OEM arm length there's only like .2 or .3 inches of thread engagement on the rod ends.
Last edited by hispanic panic; Apr 15, 2019 at 12:01 PM.
I'm also a bit confused on the offset of the trailling arm bushing. I have a PCI unit and the shaft going through the bushing has an offset. It is said to use maximum offset to reduce bumpsteer, but i'm not exactly sure which orientation is 'max' offset.
Subbed.
I set mine in the middle because it was convenient. Then I adjust toe with the turnbuckles to avoid snapping the capture nut. I pay no attention to the toe curve.
If your shocks are out of the car you should check your toe curve with different toe arm settings. It doesn't have to be perfect, but good enough to give you a relative idea of which gives u the least toe change.
As far as the PCI bushing goes, I would think you install it the way they specify with the arrow facing up.
Some of the racers in the NE use the offset spherical rear trailing arm bushings. Supposedly the biggest benefit from these is their being spherical, not so much the static geometry change.
I set mine in the middle because it was convenient. Then I adjust toe with the turnbuckles to avoid snapping the capture nut. I pay no attention to the toe curve.
If your shocks are out of the car you should check your toe curve with different toe arm settings. It doesn't have to be perfect, but good enough to give you a relative idea of which gives u the least toe change.
As far as the PCI bushing goes, I would think you install it the way they specify with the arrow facing up.
Some of the racers in the NE use the offset spherical rear trailing arm bushings. Supposedly the biggest benefit from these is their being spherical, not so much the static geometry change.
Ditto, i swear it was on this forum, a guy measuring his rear toe curve with different settings on his EF civic hatch. Can't find the thread. I remember his toe curve in the end being really really narrow.
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