So I've had intermittent issues with no A/C blowing into the cab of the car. Finally, there's none at all. I hit the vent from lowest level to highest - no vent at all (A/C or HEAT). Not concerned on the heat, but the A/C is 100% an issue where I live.
I've narrowed the issue down to the Blower Motor Resistor because when I bypass the resistor (forcing the blower motor to come on an operate), the blower motor comes on at level 1 and 3 (I assume because there is no resistor in play). So I ordered a new one - and it worked for half an hour and stopped. I tested the resistor and 'supposedly" this:


Measure the resistance of the power transistor between pins #3 and #4 with you multimeter in Ohms mode.
Your multimeter should register of about 1.4K to 1.5K Ohms (1,400 to 1,500 Ohms):

https://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ho...esistor-test-1

and on YouTube

Here is what the resistor looks like:
https://www.autozone.com/cooling-hea...tor/413144_0_0

Well, my multi-meter shows 0.00 ohms when I do this (and so does the older resistor). I see a blip in the area of 650 ohms before it drops to 0.

So here's my question, should a "good and working" blower motor resistor have an ohms reading of 1.4k-1.5k between pin #3 an #4? Or is this complete BS???

The Honda manual says nothing about this ohm reading. It only says that the ohm reading between pin #2 and @4 should be between 2-3 ohms (both resistors, old and new, show this reading as correct). If someone can 100% confirm yes or no on this, I would really appreciate it!

 

The resistance is only a few ohms. Usually you can see by inspection that the resistor is burnt out because one of the wire coils is broken. Also the plug is likely to melt or burn. The resistor needs air from the fan to stay cool. If there are a bunch of leaves, a mouse nest, etc in the fan or duct it will burn out.

The troubleshooting guide you linked is not applicable to your car. In 1998 they switched from a mechanical switch and resistor to an electronic system where the "resistor" is actually a transistor. Completely different.

With the switch on 4, the resistor is not involved. The motor should run anyway. The resistor is used to slow it down for settings 1 2 and 3. This works by having the switch ground one of the wires going to the resistor, which provides the ground side of the motor circuit.

 

This is a good answer, TY. I had a feeling that the link might not be applicable (the resistor looked different, etc), but it's all I could find outside of the Honda manual and YouTube (which was no help). I was able to bypass the resistor allowing the blower to run at full speed (just as a test), so that seems ok. I'll take a look closer look at the older resistor coils. I did notice, already, that the "coating" on the top of the coils has all come off. I don't know if that is to help keep the coils cooler, or what (seems like it). I guess I could pop out the blower and check for debris, but I could easily turn it by sticking my fingers down into the hole where the resistor sits.

It seems weird that the NEW resistor would work for a half hour, then stop completely. Re-seating and reconnecting seems to have resolved the failure for now, but I'm concerned that there is a still an underlying problem. I live outside the U.S., so parts are tough to come by.