hey everybody.

i have a 1993 Accord Ex with the 5spd manual. i got it for $100 bucks from my neighbor.


his son hit a pot hole and then a curb. they believe the yoke or cv axle was pulled out of the transmission and popped back in messing something up. (passenger side)

in first or reverse you can only move a few feet before everything binds up and you come to a stop. how ever in neutral you can move the car (by hand).

i will hopefully be pulling the engine and transmission so i can see what happened inside of it.

any guesses? mine is a bearing or ring gear tooth was knocked off and is now stuck in the gears.

also, i'm near here. hi.

 

So far it appears to be just the cv axle issue.

the rack is leaking bad so I had to pull it so I can rebuild it before I could test drive the drivetrain issue. That will be fun.

10w30 or MTF for the transmission? I've got some amsoil 10w40 motorcycle oil I could use too...

 

Good luck with this - a worthy project with that $100 entry price.

 

Thanks.

got the rack rebuilt today. Took a little less than 2 hours, not including removal from the car.

i was taking pictures for some of it but I got too dirty about half way through disassembly.

Hopefully I can get it back in the car in a day or so.

 

Looks like the boot got caught up in the dislocated inner tripod joint.
Just replace it as the tripod may have been damaged from being overly extended, same with the cup.
Quality 10W-30 or MTF is spec'd, I've used 10W-30 in the CB-1.

 

Thanks, it's got a new cv axle and while still on jacks, I started it and put it in gear and she drove.

Waiting on a rack bellow so I can finish the rack up and test drive the car.

it has a stainless steel cat back exhaust, wonder how much that was. You can flip the muffler for a louder or quieter exhaust. Neat.

 

In reverse the passenger wheel bottom half will come out. \ like that slash. Pulls the cv yoke out of the joint. Lower ball joint to control arm or..?

 

Really bad negative camber would be a better description

 

lower ball joint is toast. i have never seen one wiggle when you shake it. couldn't get any movement out of the lower control arm so i think the bushing are fine. new ball joint is a whopping $4 hahaha

i have grown fond of working on hondas.

 

i replaced the ball joint and got that fixed. however the cv axle joint (at the trans side) is still separating (passenger side).

what can cause this?

Edit: looks like the engine and transmission are shoved to the driver side, none of the motor/trans mounts are centered.

 

Turns out there were two very shot motor mounts, one bad and one good (the rear). I replaced all 4 and haven't had an issue with the cv axle. Put in a new fuel filter while I was replacing the rear mount.

ac system almost worked, sounds like an over pressure valve dumped all the freon ... getting suction at the fitting by the radiator on the passenger side. Strange.

winsheild is cracked. Gotta fix that but it's all that's left to get it registered.

so far, including cost of car and a couple random parts I sold, I'm $180 into this and I have a drivable car.

 

Nice

 

forgot to add the clock spring is bad as well. only found one available on ebay (used). couldnt find one new. are they not made anymore, by anyone?

 

Two things I've found out about airbags and clock springs is they tend to not have much of an aftermarket, as the liability is quite high.
This usually leaves the DIY out of luck, and shipping can be expensive as they are considered hazardous(explosive). There are a few specialty shops that only deal with SRS, but again these are usually not accessible to the common DIY'r. Maybe call around to a few body shops and see who they use for clocksprings/airbags.

 

used clock spring from ebay worked great. srs light is off, cruise and horn work again!

the car is drive able and running well. now its time to fix the little things.

 

A/C doesnt work. compressor clutch kicks on. filled the system up with refrigerant and there was a sound like a wastegate dumping and all the refrigerant dumped out.

is the evap/pressure relief valve in the cab or on the firewall somewhere?

 

No pressure relief valves, the high and low side valves. Find out where it leaked and fix that.

 

does anyone havea diagram showing where all the ac components are?

 

will pm you the super secret link to free honda helm shop manuals.
posting it her is a no-no.
also check bookfinder/allbookstores/ebay for a cheap used haynes manual.
worth it for the pics alone.

 

any guesses as to why the passenger CV axle keep separating if you reverse and turn at the same time? this is the third time its happened. each with a new cv axle and so far i have replaced: all 4 motor mounts and the lower ball joint.

i ordered an upper ball joint, lower control arm bushings, tie rods and a new cv axle.

nothing appears to be loose, worn or our of alignment.

 

Have you inspected the inner stub axle circlip?
Some axles have really crappy circlips, I have a stash of Honda Circlips to use just in case an aftermarket axles circlip looks wimpy.

 

its not coming out of the transmission, the cv axle is coming apart.between the joints.

also forgot to mention, i got all the improperly installed plasti dip off. that was a pain.

 

 

You need to physically look at everything under the front. Something is either bent from the kid wrecking it, which is more than likely, or the axle is the wrong length.

 

i cant find anything bent, tweaked, loose, worn, etc.

the cv axle came from advance auto. guess its out of whack. gonna replace stuff just because and i ordered a cv axle from a different brand.

any idea on the length it should be? passenger side, manual trans.