Hello everyone, I am stumped yet again. I have just changed my engine coolant temperature sensor and coolant temperature gauge sensors under my distributor. I removed my distributor to obtain access to these sensors. Before I removed my distributor everything was fine and the car was able to start. Now, after changing my ECT and coolant gauge sensors and reinstalling my distributor, the car will crank but not start. I have since replaced the distributor cap because a friend told me that it was worn out, checked all fuses, checked the mass airflow sensor and checked the throttle position sensor with a multimeter and they are all fine. I have also checked the spark plugs for spark and they are all sparking fine. At this point I am not sure what to do to get this engine to start. The car is a 1994 Accord LX and there are no check engine lights on although it is an OBD1 car. If someone can help me with where to look next it would be greatly appreciated.

 

There should be a ground wire in the general area of your thermostat and that switch you changed. Perhaps you inadvertently knocked it loose, or broke it.
But the trouble does sound like something small like that.

 

 

94-97s do not have a ground wire on the thermostat housing. That was 90-93 'CB' models. 94-97s have it on the end of the intake, under the 'boost valve'.

If you removed your distributor, you may have rotated the distributor rotor 180°. Pull the distributor out and verify.
If you have broken 'teeth' then it was off.
Verify by rotating the crank to the red mark, cam should be 'UP' and the distributor will be pointing to #1 tower.

 

 

The teeth on the fork will still go into the cam, but as you said, not fluss, but will break on insertion, and then feel like it is seated properly. Check that if you haven't done so already.
Also, perhaps you have a wire crimped. Check the coil wire, at both ends, to make sure the electrical contact is made. Sometimes those wires can feel like they're connected, when actually the contact kind of folded over inside the rubber plug.
Then you'll need to go ahead and check for spark at the plugs and for fuel at the rail. You didn't work in that area, but cars are funny like that sometimes.

 

Just wanted to give an update and thank everyone for their input so far. The car still does not start but I am noticing that cylinder 4's spark plug is getting fouled even after replacing it with a different one. I am wondering if this could be due to a leaky fuel injector for cylinder 4 and if that would cause a crank no start issue? I attached a picture of the fouled spark plug, a video of a spark plug from cylinder 1 sparking, and a video of cylinder 4 not sparking.

 

*Videos of ungrounded spark plugs*

Do you want to blow up your ignition system, cause that's how you blow up your ignition system.
You need to ground the threaded portion of the spark plug body to the engine.
If you had spark on 1-3 but by four it was dead, you probably just killed your ignition system.
Recheck PROPERLY.

Did you install the spark plug wires in the correct order?
F22B1 and F22B2 have different #1 tower locations on the distributor cap.
Haynes and Chilton manuals either ignore or have the order incorrect.
Looking at the rotor with the distributor cap removed...
#1 Tower for the B2(DX/LX cars) is @ the 1:30 position