Seam welding civic 97 engine bay
Are you running in any sanctioning body's that forbid seam welding as part of the CCR's?
Will the car ever run in any competition that forbids it?
If not weld away but beware make sure you do your homework.... couldn't tell you about where or what to weld I'm sure if you google it....
Use this link and go from here.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/weldin...lding-2112817/
Will the car ever run in any competition that forbids it?
If not weld away but beware make sure you do your homework.... couldn't tell you about where or what to weld I'm sure if you google it....
Use this link and go from here.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/weldin...lding-2112817/
No competition, so no restrictions. The car is my daily driver in the summer and I use it for some track days. It has pillow ball suspension, so it’s time to strengthen the chassis.
Ill check the link. Thanks.
Ill check the link. Thanks.
to do it "right" its a very time consuming process. I did my 2000 EM1 last winter while i was also adding chassis/cage tie ins. with all the supplies and the right temperature, this took me about 2 straight days of work to get "right."
1. you want to make sure the car is off the ground and perfectly level. this will help detect distortion during prep.
2. you will want to remove all the paint and ALL of the seam sealer... i used a wire wheel and then a propane torch. keep an extinguisher handy and be ready to work inside the bay and outside the bay with it. take pictures and/or write down where all your seam sealer is... you will want to re do the seam sealer later on any car that sees the street.
3. once it is all clean, you will want to string it and mark where your strings cross (two planes of X strings... and make sure they arent too much in the way)... this will help you ID when you are welding too much in one area and need for it to cool down. (its best just to skip around anyway... and the duty cycle of your welder will aid in keeping things cooler by forcing you to take breaks)
4. re do the seam sealer on the car. one of the big things seam sealer does is keep moisture out of the seams. hondas rust... you dont want water getting in a seam because you cant really paint in there.
5. rough up the whole engine bay with a scotch brite pad, wipe the whole thing down with acetone, spray the whole thing with whatever color you want.
the negative to all of this is... if you are ever in a serious front end collision, its going to cost a lot of money in labor to get it repaired.
1. you want to make sure the car is off the ground and perfectly level. this will help detect distortion during prep.
2. you will want to remove all the paint and ALL of the seam sealer... i used a wire wheel and then a propane torch. keep an extinguisher handy and be ready to work inside the bay and outside the bay with it. take pictures and/or write down where all your seam sealer is... you will want to re do the seam sealer later on any car that sees the street.
3. once it is all clean, you will want to string it and mark where your strings cross (two planes of X strings... and make sure they arent too much in the way)... this will help you ID when you are welding too much in one area and need for it to cool down. (its best just to skip around anyway... and the duty cycle of your welder will aid in keeping things cooler by forcing you to take breaks)
4. re do the seam sealer on the car. one of the big things seam sealer does is keep moisture out of the seams. hondas rust... you dont want water getting in a seam because you cant really paint in there.
5. rough up the whole engine bay with a scotch brite pad, wipe the whole thing down with acetone, spray the whole thing with whatever color you want.
the negative to all of this is... if you are ever in a serious front end collision, its going to cost a lot of money in labor to get it repaired.
Time and money spent better elsewhere
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crazfenderplz
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Sep 3, 2004 02:28 PM







