I've got the DC2 on jackstands but its kinda cold out atm and am being lazy as i have to drop the subframe to replace some stuff..like this crappy reman powersteering rack.

so what are you doing this winter?

 

-finished cooling system (swirl pot/bottom feedreservoir)
-stainless clutch line
-cop ignition
-new 5th gear
-new flywheel
-new retainers
-new headgasket because cometic is trash
-oil cooler setup

-then get down to some ride height experiments/adjustments, alignment, and some dyno testing.

first race is in like 10 weeks

 

Working with my engine builder and a few vendors to do at least one upgrade to almost every area of the car:

Engine
- 11.6:1 compression pistons
- New bearings in bottom end
- ECU retune and readjustment of cams to take advantage of upgraded bottom end
- Lightened steel flywheel
- Replace as many worn rubber and plastic ancillary components as we can find on this motor

Transmission
- 4.64:1 Final Drive
- Moving transmission internals to a case that doesn't leak

Suspension
- Revalve Tein dampers for quicker response through left-right transitions
- Re-set ride heights and corner weights

Chassis
- CF Hood
- Skeletonize bumper beams for weight reduction

Wheels / Tyres
- 17x8 Rota Grid Racings in neon yellow
- Hoosier R7 245/40R17

Driver
- Work harder to pay for all of these upgrades

 

-Just got it back from paint (fresh EBP on the EM1)
-finish the B18C1 (with hondata COP)
-rebuild the trans with new .875 fifth gear and 4.928 FD
-install new belts and nets
-figure out how to wire the kill switch (anyone got some pointers?)
-new core support, carbon hood (with vent), bumpers
-Add about 75lbs of ballast (probably with the on board fire suppression and strategically placed "backing plates")
-mount my new NineLives Wing (when my mounts finally get here.

@garagegraderacecar for instagram pics

 

 

looks like there is lots of stuff brewing for this season

here are my plans so far

1) fix powersteering rack
2) hardrace upper control arms (front)
3) rear upper camber adjuster
3) progress sway bar
4) k-tuned or some variety of extended length shifter
5) extended front wheel lugs
6) plm header
7) 2.5 inch catback (yonaka or watanbe or somee sort of apexi setup)

i do plan on upgrading to coilovers (progress or fortune autos) and going with a b16 transission but i think i am going to hold off until atleast halfway through the season. i feel like i can still improve as a driver with the stock. suspension and im still having fun so thats all that matters atm

i am pretty angry that i have to re-do the rack as i bought a new one last year so i wouldnt have to do this again for the forseeable future. i didnt think i'd be another reman powersteering rack statistic but ...thats life.

 

For the ChumpCar Prelude:

• Fuel pressure sensor
• New Accusump
• Hydramat in the gas tank
• Make the window net easier to use
• New distributor
• Put the race lights back in
• Even up the front camber, add a little rear camber
• Consumables- fluids, pads, tires

Nothing major, thankfully. First race is in 6 weeks.

 

- Reset the timing for the third time (started engine rebuild at the end of the 2017 season) still can't get it to run right
- Finish making my own front splitter (needs mounts)
- Cut up my spare rear bumper and make a diffuser to run with it when the muffler is removed at the track
- After break in (given I can get the damn thing to run right first) throw in cams/injectors and get tuned to kill mode
- If I have the fundage after all that get some shocks worthy of track time (more research needed here)

Ran long enough to get an alignment, didn't make it back home.

 

• Modify, paint, and installed LoBuk eBay wing DONE

• Acquire LoBuk quick release steering wheel DONE
• Make homemade splitter
• Change out harnesses
• Acquire LoBuk 4.7 final drive for B16 or B18B1 (HELP ME FIND ONE USED)
• Install LoBuk, used Spoon plate differential and 4.7 final drive

• Finish LoBuk sharpie livery

• Install MSD external coil DONE
• Make custom, LoBuk intake out of eBay piping DONE

• Replace ball joints
• Make spare set of vented OEM axles with redline grease
• Redo window net DONE
• Make door handle since I cut mine off for the nascar bars (WIP picture shown) DONE

• Install passenger seat
• Troubleshoot fuel starvation on half tank in corners DONE
• Tap oil pan for temperature gauge and reinstall DONE

• New spark plugs DONE
• Finish helping friend build new LoBuk H4 car ALMOST DONE

And that's only some of it....

 

is the silver integra alex' car?

 

 

i wouldnt say i know him but i met him a few times @ the 2 NASA events i did this year

the last NASA event i did he was there and his engine blew up and i think he wound up letting his car be an organ donor for another h4 racer

guess he got a new motor for it?

 

 

-Coil on plug
-Gear X trans build with a wavetrac diff
-fender exit turbo exhaust
-front splitter with quick release brackets
-nine lives 67" wing with 12" gooseneck uprights
-18x10.5 front and 17x8 rear Konig Dekagram
-race gas tune, the car made 522whp on pump

 

what plugs are everyone looking to run with the COP? how do I identify a resistor plug? I'm just trying to get a set for a "stock" type R (poor mans)

edit: I'm looking at the BKR6EIX-11 from NGK

 

if the code has an R in it, that's a resistor plug. I use BKR8ES-11

 

thanks! the advanced guys are not very helpful for the track car

 

"edit: I'm looking at the BKR6EIX-11 from NGK "

You'd probably be better off running a copper plug in a race engine.

 

Let's bring this back from the dead (AKA last year).

This winter, some of my plans include:

• Add block of wood to brake pedal for better heel toe
• Finish engine diagnostics (what is health of my motor?)
  • Compression test-- done
  • Leakdown-- done
  • Drain and sample oil-- pending results
  • Drop pan--
• Make new exhaust
• Install free AFR and oil pressure gauges and harnesses I got from my box of B Series trash (thanks DMAutoParts)
• Finish arduino-based oil temperature sensor (because nerd)

And much more.

 

Going to do a 5.4 FD with a .73 6th
go to 255 R-Comps front and 225 Rears
Oil Change/Filter lol
PCI Swan/and or 9 Lives
P1 front splitter
Maybe different seats
bigger rear view mirror
get hans
get lasik

 

you'll feel more with different seats. i will highly (jump up and down and kick and scream over it) recommend at least a roll bar if you go fixed back (and you will need it for belts and hans setup. I think my seats are too wide for you, but i have to replace at least my drivers seat so you can have it. I think it would be good for an instructor/rider since its fits most folks.

you are picking up speed on 200TWs... you are running comparable speeds to me... its time to add safety. move that to the top of the list please. I will tell your wife.

 

My winter just got so much more complicated.... (all i wanted to do is replace my roof skin)

1. chase the gremlin... whatever it is (so far it could be a new COP box, maybe a broken cam, possibly in the engine harness... who knows)
2. Going to a Rywire complete chassis race harness with PDM... maybe with a AIM dash (if the bonus is good enough)… this is actually complicated because I've decided i don't like my gauge setup, my video setup, my tach, etc. If i don't get an AIM dash i'm going to go with an Ipad/S2k cluster setup for my data/gauges and maybe my video.
2a. i'm going to have strip the whole chassis of all its wiring anyway for this process...
2b. relocate the new deep cell battery to the back, rewire it, etc... remove ballast... rebalance the car
3. replace the roof skin since my quiklatch pins failed and caved it in (and its no longer waterproof which is the real bummer)
4. install the Bimmerworld defrost kit (might as well since the windshield has to come out to replace the roof skin.
5. replace my seat with a halo seat... replace my pedal assembly (the current is cracked and getting worse)… redo the center console to house the PDM and fuse switch panel.
send my hondata out for upgrades... get vtec actually installed and stop running the solenoid, replace the capacitors, go to V3 for blue tooth, etc.
6. I need to rebuild my front calipers and figure out why I've lost brake pedal feeling. :-/
7. if i have time, i'm going to replace the rear lexan window since i hacked it up to compete even with the windshield busted out.

 

I think I will do at least a 4 or 6 point auto-power bolt in for next season, you are right. I will move that to the top. I was thinking that I may go and get another recliner and keep the stock belts (buddy club P1 wide or something similar) but thanks for keeping it real, I need to focus on the safety (my wife would agree with you). I need better seats, harnesses, and a fire extinguisher.

 

you got "summit" pretty quickly... and with the weather added in you were up to speed quickly. the seats will make you a more responsive driver (it will quicken your hands because you will feel the car better) and will help you survive the long days with less fatigue. your comfort will help you pick up speed and be a better driver. of your list i would recommend the following with budget considerations (cause i know i'm not rich):

1. Maybe different seats (safety)… IMHO a minimum is roll bar, harnesses, fix back seats, hans… this is at least $1k with used deals, all new you are looking at $2500 (it all needs to be done at once. have an adjustable seat with a roll bar is asking to have your back broken... adjustable seats are usually designed to unhinge in a roll over and flatten out).
1a. Oil Change/Filter lol (its a requirement and low cost for the money you have invested)
1b. bigger rear view mirror (again, fairly cheap and its going to help you see the fast cars coming or going... its really a safety thing)
1c. get lasik… use your HSA... this isn't race budget stuff
1d. flip your front and rear spring rates... and see how the car feels. (PS - Its free)
2. Going to do a 5.4 FD with a .73 6th … this you know the cost, but it gets you driving the gear patter closer to your final product, so this "practice" and comfort with this gear set will be important. If money is a "thing" (when is it not), you can wait until next year, but i would move it up to 1 next year.
3. go to 255 R-Comps front and 225 Rears... this is going to require a suspension adjustment (more spring rate, etc).
4. P1 front splitter... you need to put power down and this is where it comes from. also there is less suspension change when you dial this in then add a rear wing.
5. PCI Swan/and or 9 Lives... this is the last bit... it really is. doing it first causes the most issue with suspension tuning

 

Thanks brother! (Cut and pasted into notes). Ill focus on the all at once seats/cage/hans/harnesses over the winter and worry less about the other stuff (except some tires, need to burn the toyo-bucks before they are invalid)