Hello all. My family has a 2006 V6 accord with about 170k miles on the chassis that rarely get used. The motor was replaced maybe 20-30k miles ago and has recently failed smog (don't quote me on it though). But because we have one too many cars on the driveway, I have been debating on either junking the car or repairing the vehicle if its a cheap*(ish) fix. I had been driving the car every other week in mid July 2018 but stopped using it after it wouldn't pass smog. My plan is to either junk the car as it sits, or fix it for any one else outside my family (keeping the car as an emergency car or selling it for cheap to my cousins who are starting college soon so they can get to class) Is it worth repairing? If its repairable I would only like to invest no more than ~150 bucks into it so it passes smog to get tags and only. Not interested in any special smogs. I have limited knowledge of the car's history.

Last I checked, the car threw a few codes. Misfire on EVERY cylinder. I've been told by my parents that when brought to the smog shop that it failed smog. They didn't say why but I will ask later tonight. Someone told me in the family that the car has a bad cat, but when I pulled the codes, I didn't see anything cat related, just misfire codes. Where should I start if at all if its a 'reasonable' fix? I would like to either move the car one way or another in the next month. If anyone has a suggestion or two for me please let me know. My family wants to junk the car, but I want to see if I can save it for someone struggling for a car.

PS: I remember how HT was back in the early 2000s where every other comment was OMGWTFBBQ SEARCH YA EFFING N00B. Before ya'll go in dry on me, please any suggestions for a youtubing DYI-er for a search topic would be great!

Any advice? Thanks in advance.

 

Would be a shame to chuck a perfectly good J30.
If you have a set of basic metric socket set, 10,12,14mm sockets, along with a set of angled feeler gauges, a few picks, and a vacuum, you most likely can fix the problem yourself.
This is most likely from one of two, if not both, issues.
With over 80K miles the EGR ports are most likely clogged.
Remove the intake manifold plenum cover ~12 10mm headed bolts.
There will be individual ports and channels feeding the intake runners egr gases, if the are clogged this will cause a misfire condition during part throttle.
There will also be a black steel bracket that is part of the EGR system, on the right side under the plenum cover, remove that and make sure it is also clean. Honda actually recommends to just replace it rather than clean. But if it is coked up just knock off the chunks with a flat head screwdriver.
Unbolt the upper plenum from the lower runners, the gaskets used on the intake manifold are reusable steel.
If you are careful you can also unbolt the throttle body and gently tap it free, if the paper gasket didn't rip you can reuse it, although I think a replacement is a couple bucks.
TB has coolant lines going to it so it is easier to just leave the TB in situ rather than messing with coolant hoses and making a mess.
Make sure all the vacuum lines and sensors are disconnected before removing the upper plenum.
Remove the plenum to runner spacer and make sure the EGR feed port is not also clogged.
Flip over the Plenum and make sure the EGR feed port is not clogged either.

Remove the coil packs and inspect the boots and springs for wear, if they are covered in oil or just rotten, They should be replaced, you can purchase new coil pack boots for a few bucks, no need to replace the coil packs themselves.
Check the spark plug wells for any oil intrusion, if so the well seals will need to be replaced, Only use Honda or Victor Reinz(Mahl) gaskets.
Remove the spark plugs and verify they are tight and withinn gap spec, if they are out of spec replace them. Use your feeler gauges to check.
Remove the valve covers,

On the timing belt covers there will be round windows you can open, these are to allow you to line up the cylinders to TDC, each one is numbered.
Manually rotate the engine to each cylinder, doesn't matter order just whichever cylinder comes up first check the valve clearance.
Intake = .20-.24mm(.008-.009")
Exhaust = .28-.32mm(.011-.013")

If any of the valves are too tight or no clearance the valves will hang open and cause a misfire.
10mm box end to unlock and a flat head to adjust.
Back out the adjust ment screw insert the feeler gauge.
Snug down until the feeler sits up, then stop, lock down the nut while holding the adjuster with the flathead. Just snug, don't crank the begesus out of them.

Wipe down the gaskets and reinstall the valve covers, spark plugs, coil packs, sensors, spacer and upper plenum.

In total it will take you about 4 hours at a lesisurely pace.