1993 Wagon Transmission - D4 light stays on
Hello everyone - My 1993 Accord wagon’s transmission has started acting strange. First it was not allowing you to shift from park. Then after a week of yanking it out of Park it returned to be easy to shift from Park, but then it wouldn’t shift into 4th. Next when in D4 it would not shift in to 1st unless you manual pulled the stick from D4 to D1, yet the D4 light stays on. I’ve pulled the 7.5 “radio” fuse for 10 minutes afterwards it then drives/shifts perfectly for a little while. When you first turn on the ignition, the D4 light lights up, and turns off at the same thing as the check engine light. But after a few rides the D4 comes back on, stays on, and it returns to not shifting in to first unless you manually shift the stick, and does not shift into 4th. I believe it is more of an electrical/sensor issue rather than a mechanical “tranny needs a rebuild” issue. Has anyone had this issue before and can anyone give me advice to take to a mechanic so I don’t get a run around?
Thanks in advance for the community’s help!
Thanks in advance for the community’s help!
If the CEL or D4 lamp are on you need to retrieve any stored codes.
Passenger side kick panel.
Look for a blue connector with two wires.
Jumper the connector.
Turn the Ignition to II(ON)
Watch the CEL and D4 lamps for blinking. Long blinks are tens, short blinks are ones. Record the blinks and report back here.
Do not clear the codes, there is a fault that needs to be fixed.
Passenger side kick panel.
Look for a blue connector with two wires.
Jumper the connector.
Turn the Ignition to II(ON)
Watch the CEL and D4 lamps for blinking. Long blinks are tens, short blinks are ones. Record the blinks and report back here.
Do not clear the codes, there is a fault that needs to be fixed.
If the CEL or D4 lamp are on you need to retrieve any stored codes.
Passenger side kick panel.
Look for a blue connector with two wires.
Jumper the connector.
Turn the Ignition to II(ON)
Watch the CEL and D4 lamps for blinking. Long blinks are tens, short blinks are ones. Record the blinks and report back here.
Do not clear the codes, there is a fault that needs to be fixed.
Passenger side kick panel.
Look for a blue connector with two wires.
Jumper the connector.
Turn the Ignition to II(ON)
Watch the CEL and D4 lamps for blinking. Long blinks are tens, short blinks are ones. Record the blinks and report back here.
Do not clear the codes, there is a fault that needs to be fixed.
Mad Mike - Thank you got your reply/advice! So last Sunday I pulled the radio fuse for over 10 minutes. I replaced it, turned on the ignition, the D4 light lit up along with the rest of the dash board, and then went out when the check engine light went out. I then drove it to dinner and you drove perfectly fine - Meaning when I put the car into reverse only the reverse light lit up, and then when I put it in to D4, it shifted perfectly, first through fourth on the way to dinner. The same series of events happened when I drove home. The next day when I started it the D4 light stayed on, and I now had to manually shift, and this time first, second, and third worked, but it would not shift into fourth, and the D4 light stayed on consistently.
So this morning I pulled the radio fuse again, after 10 minutes I replaced it, before turning on the ignition I put the jumper wires in the blue connector under the kick plate, and then turned on the ignition. The D4 light Did not come on, but the check engine light stays on consistently. There is no flashing.
I then removed one of the wires from the blue connector, and then turned the ignition key on again, the D4 light comes on along with the other lights, and then both the CEL and the D4 light go out after two seconds. I then started the car, and while doing so the D4 light flashed for a half a second, but remains out, and with my foot on the brake when I run through all the gears, each light comes on as they should.
After turning off off the ignition, I replaced the jumper wire into the blue connector, turned on the ignition again, and the D4 light does not come on, but the CEL comes on and remains on.
Does that hat tell you anything helpful? Thanks again for your help!
So this morning I pulled the radio fuse again, after 10 minutes I replaced it, before turning on the ignition I put the jumper wires in the blue connector under the kick plate, and then turned on the ignition. The D4 light Did not come on, but the check engine light stays on consistently. There is no flashing.
I then removed one of the wires from the blue connector, and then turned the ignition key on again, the D4 light comes on along with the other lights, and then both the CEL and the D4 light go out after two seconds. I then started the car, and while doing so the D4 light flashed for a half a second, but remains out, and with my foot on the brake when I run through all the gears, each light comes on as they should.
After turning off off the ignition, I replaced the jumper wire into the blue connector, turned on the ignition again, and the D4 light does not come on, but the CEL comes on and remains on.
Does that hat tell you anything helpful? Thanks again for your help!
Stop clearing the memory.
Drive the car til failure occurs, when it goes back into limp mode and no longer shifts.
Then check for stored codes.
If no codes are present, recheck all connections and anything that was recently worked on that may have disturbed the wiring.
If the car is hard to start when cold or lacking performance and still no codes but a solid CEL then the ECM itself may be faulty, find a known good unit to test with, after verifying grounds, wire harness, and battery power are all normal.
Drive the car til failure occurs, when it goes back into limp mode and no longer shifts.
Then check for stored codes.
If no codes are present, recheck all connections and anything that was recently worked on that may have disturbed the wiring.
If the car is hard to start when cold or lacking performance and still no codes but a solid CEL then the ECM itself may be faulty, find a known good unit to test with, after verifying grounds, wire harness, and battery power are all normal.
Stop clearing the memory.
Drive the car til failure occurs, when it goes back into limp mode and no longer shifts.
Then check for stored codes.
If no codes are present, recheck all connections and anything that was recently worked on that may have disturbed the wiring.
If the car is hard to start when cold or lacking performance and still no codes but a solid CEL then the ECM itself may be faulty, find a known good unit to test with, after verifying grounds, wire harness, and battery power are all normal.
Drive the car til failure occurs, when it goes back into limp mode and no longer shifts.
Then check for stored codes.
If no codes are present, recheck all connections and anything that was recently worked on that may have disturbed the wiring.
If the car is hard to start when cold or lacking performance and still no codes but a solid CEL then the ECM itself may be faulty, find a known good unit to test with, after verifying grounds, wire harness, and battery power are all normal.
Thank you, will do. Does it matter if I keep the jumper wire in the blue connector? When I do the CEL stays on presently. I’ve tried many different steps/approaches and nothing seems to get the D4 or the CEL to flash a code :/. This has been going on since last July. This vehicle is very sentimental to me as it was my fathers. He bought it when he was 70, drove it until he was 90 and I inherited when he passed. I have every service record and it is in immaculate shape other than this. Although I should probably mention that the master cylinder is going, so when the transmission first started acting difficult to shift from Park into gear I figured it had to do with the brake pedal sensor. And just last week the dash light lit up that indicated a brake light was out, however when a friend looked to tell me if it was the right or left brake light, he said both were working fine. The dash light continued to indicate there was a brake light out for a few more days, then it started becoming intermittent (some days on, others off), but for the last 3 days the dash light is off and the brake lights are fine. 🤔🤷🏻*♂️
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