I recently purchased a 1997 Accord 2.2L automatic with 228,000 miles on it. The car was suppose to be drivable other than a dead battery and flat tire. I loaded it up hauled it home and got it running. I tried to test drive it after checking all the fluids and found that the transmission would slip on every shift. If i let off the gas a couple times it would eventually take gear and go on. After limping it back home and trying to turn it around it would not go into drive. I shut it off and restarted it and it went in gear just fine ( little slow I think). I hook up my scanner and the only codes where P0135 02 sensor heater and a P0715 for the input turbine speed sensor. I cleared the codes and ran the car again it did not return. I would like to check the trans pressure but I can find nothing on where to check it or what it should be. The fluid does not smell burnt andis fairly clean I suspect it maybe a shift solenoid but they test good and there is no codes for them. Is it possible to test the pressure on these? where is the test port and what PSI should it be?
Thanks in advance for you help

 

I dont think there is a pressure test port but you may want to pull the shift solenoids to clean the filter screens. In my older hondas I use lubegard red and valvoline maxlife. YMMV

 

If you have no service records on the trans, the fluid was probably not regularly changed. Problem with these trans is there is no serviceable sump pickup/filter. The gunk and friction material can build up in the sump and cover the pickup screen in the sump, reducing flow/pressure and eventually the trans will stop working.
Aren't they always.
When the transmission stops functioning, listen near the bellhousing. If you hear a howling sounds then that is the AT pump cavitating due to the sump pickup becoming clogged.
You can try doing a few drains and refills to suck the gunk out, but most likely you will need to do the Tyler Dirden cleaning.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-.../#post50667457
Just be very careful when drilling up. Mark your drill bit with a piece of tape and don't go beyond, you don't want to destroy the screen. It's the only filtering media in the trans.
O2 Sensor won't affect shifting.
Main Shaft sensor will affect shifting and shift quality, pull both right side cover sensors (NM//NC) and make sure they are clean, if they are covered in magnetic slurry this will reduce resolution to the TCU. This also will indicate how well the transmission was taken care of. Lots of slurry, trans was probably not serviced, or serviced often.
Before any testing, verify that the throttle valve 'B' cable is properly adjusted between the TB and TV lever on the trans.
There should be no slack in the cable, nor any pretension. When the throttle blade begins to open the TV lever on the trans should begin to lift.
Verify this is properly adjusted before doing any pressure testing.

There are seven pressure test ports. 10mm head bolts, remove them and install a gauge capable of up to 150PSI.

Line pressure port, located on forward face of trans, below lock up solenoids, above shift solenoids.
1st clutch pressure port is on the right side cover, high up, facing firewall, above shaft sensor.
1st hold-clutch(manual 1) pressure port, right side cover, facing firewall, below shaft sensor.
4th clutch pressure port is on the right side cover, pointing forward.
2nd clutch pressure port is on the front of the trans below the shift solenoids. Near the center beam under the car.
3rd clutch pressure port is below the 2nd clutch pressure port. Near the center beam under the car.
Throttle 'B'(Throttle valve) pressure port. On top of case, under radiator hose past the distributor.

Throttle 'B'(Throttle valve) pressure port.
Set parking brake, chock wheels.
Disconnect throttle cable from lever(raise lever, pull ball end off lever.)
Hold rpm at 1Krpm while in D4 position. Make sure those wheels are chocked.
With Throttle valve 'B' closed there should be 0PSI.
With Throttle valve 'B' fully open 120-130PSI, minimum service limit is 110PSI.

Set parking brake.
Raise front of car and support.
Allow wheels to rotate freely.
Engine should be at 2Krpm
Line Pressure, P or N, 120-130 PSi(min110PSi)
1st Clutch, in D1 or D4, 120-130 PSi(min110PSi)
1st-hold Clutch, in D1, 120-130 PSi, (min 110PSi)
2nd Clutch, in D2, 120-130 PSi, (min 110PSi)
2nd Clutch, in D4, TV 'B' lever closed 71PSi(min 64PSi)/ TV 'B' lever 1/4 or more open 130PSi(min 110Psi)
3rd Clutch, in D4, TV 'B' lever closed 71PSi(min 64PSi)/ TV 'B' lever 1/4 or more open 130PSi(min 110Psi)
4th Clutch, in D4, TV 'B' lever closed 75PSi(min 67PSi)/ TV 'B' lever 1/4 or more open 130PSi(min 110Psi)
4th Clutch, in R, 120-130 PSi(110PSi)

 

Awesome information Mad Mike I will check all that and let you know what I find. the filter cleaning procedure is great I will try that is the pressures are off.
Thanks to everyone for your reply's

 

Mikes the man, I coulda used your pressure info a few months ago, thanks for posting.

 

This absolutely works--drilled the hole cleaned the filter and it shifts great. I havent drove it a lot yet but the tranny is back working. Thanks to everyone for your input

 

Dang, nice work, good call on Mikes part. Follow up after you have a few hundred miles on it.