94 accord ex, cel reset question
So I checked the codes being thrown by jumping the service connector, I got 8 , 22 . Tdc sensor , VTech pressure valve. I replaced the distributor and tried to reset the ecu by pulling the radio/backup fuse and also by disconnecting the battery for over 15 minutes.
I key the ignition to accessory and the cel comes back on even without ever starting the engine. Check the codes, same codes 8 , 22.
Am I not clearing the cel codes correctly? Or is this some kind of circuit problem that throws the code as soon as I key the car to accessory position? As in no signal from these sensors at all.
FYI , the car does run but VTech never engages and in cold weather the car has a very rough/erratic idle and very hard time starting, but after the engine warms up. It appears to run well except for random misfires and sometimes noticeable reductions in power.
I key the ignition to accessory and the cel comes back on even without ever starting the engine. Check the codes, same codes 8 , 22.
Am I not clearing the cel codes correctly? Or is this some kind of circuit problem that throws the code as soon as I key the car to accessory position? As in no signal from these sensors at all.
FYI , the car does run but VTech never engages and in cold weather the car has a very rough/erratic idle and very hard time starting, but after the engine warms up. It appears to run well except for random misfires and sometimes noticeable reductions in power.
Addressing your FYI comments:
1. have you cleaned the TB, MAP passage, FIV, IACV, EGR, EGR passages, VTEC screen and spool valve? Is the oil level correct?
2. The VTEC pressure switch is normally closed. With engine off, pull the connector and ohm the two pins on the switch, should be zero ohms or close to it. If open replace the switch.
3. With key in on position and pressure switch connector disconnected, do a voltage check on the connector, there should be 10 to 12 volts on one of the two pins with respect to ground. If not probably a wiring issue.
1. have you cleaned the TB, MAP passage, FIV, IACV, EGR, EGR passages, VTEC screen and spool valve? Is the oil level correct?
2. The VTEC pressure switch is normally closed. With engine off, pull the connector and ohm the two pins on the switch, should be zero ohms or close to it. If open replace the switch.
3. With key in on position and pressure switch connector disconnected, do a voltage check on the connector, there should be 10 to 12 volts on one of the two pins with respect to ground. If not probably a wiring issue.
Thanks for the response!
I'm about to do all the throttle body and egr recommendations you mentioned this weekend. As far as the VTech stuff I'll get to that. I'm more worried about the tdc sensor code, and making sure I'm resetting the the ecu properly. I read that the tdc sensor code is triggered by a lack of continuity, but if that's the case then I don't understand why the car can run, and run well once warmed up. The cold weather seemed to exacerbate the problem and bring it to light.
I'm about to do all the throttle body and egr recommendations you mentioned this weekend. As far as the VTech stuff I'll get to that. I'm more worried about the tdc sensor code, and making sure I'm resetting the the ecu properly. I read that the tdc sensor code is triggered by a lack of continuity, but if that's the case then I don't understand why the car can run, and run well once warmed up. The cold weather seemed to exacerbate the problem and bring it to light.
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lv6l
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Oct 27, 2005 04:01 PM



