Please help - Cranks but no start!
Hey guys, I'm hoping someone can please help me out here. I've done some research but have found many different solutions from others that didn't work for me.
So I have a 92 civic dx ODB1 chipped P28 with an LSV swap and the motor cranks but does not start. The fuel pump doesn't prime and I have a solid CEL for Code 0 which is for the ECU.
First I started off by getting another main relay but still no start. After that I was able to borrow a friend's known good ECU but still no start. I jumped the fuel pump wires from the main relay and it turns just fine so it is not the fuel pump. I've checked my grounds, especially on the thermostat housing, cleaned them make sure they're tight but still no start. I also checked the fuses under the dash which are (correct me if I am wrong) 18 & 24 and 38 in the engine bay and they're fine. Even tried replacing them each with another fuse just in case but no luck.
I believe my issue is the ECU is not getting the power it needs and by doing some research I think my problem might reside in the ignition switch. However, I couldn't find much online from others. If someone could please point in my in the right direction on how to troubleshoot it or by-pass the ignition switch to see if that is my problem or tell me what else it could be.
Please and thank you in advance!
So I have a 92 civic dx ODB1 chipped P28 with an LSV swap and the motor cranks but does not start. The fuel pump doesn't prime and I have a solid CEL for Code 0 which is for the ECU.
First I started off by getting another main relay but still no start. After that I was able to borrow a friend's known good ECU but still no start. I jumped the fuel pump wires from the main relay and it turns just fine so it is not the fuel pump. I've checked my grounds, especially on the thermostat housing, cleaned them make sure they're tight but still no start. I also checked the fuses under the dash which are (correct me if I am wrong) 18 & 24 and 38 in the engine bay and they're fine. Even tried replacing them each with another fuse just in case but no luck.
I believe my issue is the ECU is not getting the power it needs and by doing some research I think my problem might reside in the ignition switch. However, I couldn't find much online from others. If someone could please point in my in the right direction on how to troubleshoot it or by-pass the ignition switch to see if that is my problem or tell me what else it could be.
Please and thank you in advance!
Check fuses 24 (dash) and 31 (hood). Do you know where they are located?
Provide additional details about this^ test. What exact pins/wires in the main relay connector did you jump?
I jumped the fuel pump wires from the main relay and it turns just fine so it is not the fuel pump.
Thanks for the reply, I didn't know someone was going to reply to fast! lol
My plans tomorrow after 1:00PM EST was to hopefully tackle this problem so I will check those two fuses tomorrow and I don't remember which wires exactly of the top of my head but I will let you know tomorrow as well.
Thanks for the help!
My plans tomorrow after 1:00PM EST was to hopefully tackle this problem so I will check those two fuses tomorrow and I don't remember which wires exactly of the top of my head but I will let you know tomorrow as well.
Thanks for the help!
Jump pin 1 to pin 7 (key off)
Jump pin 5 to pin 7 (key in ON-II)
The fuel pump should run for both tests.
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Okay so here’s the outcome to what you had me check.
Dash fuse 24 which I believe is on the top row right under the igition switch plug, second from the right is good. Even changed it out for another 15, still no luck.
Hood fuse 31 which I believe is when standing in front of the car is the one first one on the back left hand side is good. Even changed it out for another 15, still no luck.
(correct me if I am wrong with the fuse location)
i jumped pin 1 & 7 key off, FP turns on.
jumped pin 7 & 5 key in position II FP turns on.
Again thanks for the help!
Dash fuse 24 which I believe is on the top row right under the igition switch plug, second from the right is good. Even changed it out for another 15, still no luck.
Hood fuse 31 which I believe is when standing in front of the car is the one first one on the back left hand side is good. Even changed it out for another 15, still no luck.
(correct me if I am wrong with the fuse location)
i jumped pin 1 & 7 key off, FP turns on.
jumped pin 7 & 5 key in position II FP turns on.
Again thanks for the help!
Okay so here’s the outcome to what you had me check.
Dash fuse 24 which I believe is on the top row right under the igition switch plug, second from the right is good. Even changed it out for another 15, still no luck.
Hood fuse 31 which I believe is when standing in front of the car is the one first one on the back left hand side is good. Even changed it out for another 15, still no luck.
(correct me if I am wrong with the fuse location)
i jumped pin 1 & 7 key off, FP turns on.
jumped pin 7 & 5 key in position II FP turns on.
Again thanks for the help!
Dash fuse 24 which I believe is on the top row right under the igition switch plug, second from the right is good. Even changed it out for another 15, still no luck.
Hood fuse 31 which I believe is when standing in front of the car is the one first one on the back left hand side is good. Even changed it out for another 15, still no luck.
(correct me if I am wrong with the fuse location)
i jumped pin 1 & 7 key off, FP turns on.
jumped pin 7 & 5 key in position II FP turns on.
Again thanks for the help!
Reconnect the main relay.
Disconnect ECU connector A.
For ECU connector A, use a wire to ground pin A7 or A8 (whichever is attached to a Grn/Yel wire) to the metal frame under the dash.
Turn key to ON(II).
Does fuel pump run?
Disconnect ECU connector A.
For ECU connector A, use a wire to ground pin A7 or A8 (whichever is attached to a Grn/Yel wire) to the metal frame under the dash.
Turn key to ON(II).
Does fuel pump run?
Next tests:
Disconnect ECU connectors A and B.
Turn key to ON(II).
Measure voltage to body ground at pins A25 and B1 (Yel/Blk wires).
Turn key OFF.
Measure continuity to body ground at pins A26 (Blk/Red wire) and B2 (Brn/Blk wire).
Post the multimeter readings.
Okay disconnected ECU connectors A & B.
While key turned to position II, Pin A25 reach 11.49v, Pin B1 reads 11.49v.
I hope I did this second part right. Turned the key off, Set the mutlimeter to the shoe horse logo & A26 to ground reads 00.5 & B2 to ground reads 00.5.
Correct me if I did anything wrong.
While key turned to position II, Pin A25 reach 11.49v, Pin B1 reads 11.49v.
I hope I did this second part right. Turned the key off, Set the mutlimeter to the shoe horse logo & A26 to ground reads 00.5 & B2 to ground reads 00.5.
Correct me if I did anything wrong.
Okay disconnected ECU connectors A & B.
While key turned to position II, Pin A25 reach 11.49v, Pin B1 reads 11.49v.
I hope I did this second part right. Turned the key off, Set the mutlimeter to the shoe horse logo & A26 to ground reads 00.5 & B2 to ground reads 00.5.
Correct me if I did anything wrong.
While key turned to position II, Pin A25 reach 11.49v, Pin B1 reads 11.49v.
I hope I did this second part right. Turned the key off, Set the mutlimeter to the shoe horse logo & A26 to ground reads 00.5 & B2 to ground reads 00.5.
Correct me if I did anything wrong.
Turned key to position ON (II) without cranking, waiting about 10 seconds CEL stays on solid, jumped service connector & it still stays on.
However I did notice if I moved the ecu around the CEL will go off/on. Like if a cable is loose somewhere but on the ecu connectors everything is plugged in properly.
However I did notice if I moved the ecu around the CEL will go off/on. Like if a cable is loose somewhere but on the ecu connectors everything is plugged in properly.


