94 accord ex starts n dies
94 accord ex starts runs for a couple minutes then dies,it won't star again.couple hours later crank it again it starts no problem,couple minutes later dies again and it won't start.just replaced fuel pump and time up can someone help me
Could be the infamous main relay, but because of the symptoms, the Ignition Control Module (Ignitor) comes to mind, When is is old and wearing out, it will produce spark to get ignition going, but not keep it going for very long. After a rest, it is able to do it again. But because the spark is not consistently strong, ignition not keep going to let you drive your car. The ignition control module is inside the distributor housing. It is just a small thing about the size of a book of matches, but when working properly, it produces the fire it takes to keep the ignition cycle going.
On these cars, the normal test of the ignitor, which is to pull a plug wire and check for spark on the end of it, may produce false results, because there will likely be spark found when key is on. But that spark might not be strong enough to do the job. When my ICM was bad, I noticed the the spark was kind of bluish-orange in color. I checked after the engine stalled and with the key still on. The spark from a properly functioning ICM is white hot. Definitely easy to distinguish from the weak spark.
There is a more precise check where you can check the ohms on your ignitor to see if it is in spec. See if you can find a repair manual for your year to see what terminals on the ignitor to put your multimeter on. Or, if your distributor has a lot f miles on it, consider just replacing it with an oem aftermarket one.
On these cars, the normal test of the ignitor, which is to pull a plug wire and check for spark on the end of it, may produce false results, because there will likely be spark found when key is on. But that spark might not be strong enough to do the job. When my ICM was bad, I noticed the the spark was kind of bluish-orange in color. I checked after the engine stalled and with the key still on. The spark from a properly functioning ICM is white hot. Definitely easy to distinguish from the weak spark.
There is a more precise check where you can check the ohms on your ignitor to see if it is in spec. See if you can find a repair manual for your year to see what terminals on the ignitor to put your multimeter on. Or, if your distributor has a lot f miles on it, consider just replacing it with an oem aftermarket one.
[QUOTE=brakedrum;51750840]Could be the infamous main relay, but because of the symptoms, the Ignition Control Module (Ignitor) comes to mind, When is is old and wearing out, it will produce spark to get ignition going, but not keep it going for very long. After a rest, it is able to do it again. But because the spark is not consistently strong, ignition not keep going to let you drive your car. The ignition control module is inside the distributor housing. It is just a small thing about the size of a book of matches, but when working properly, it produces the fire it takes to keep the ignition cycle going.
On these cars, the normal test of the ignitor, which is to pull a plug wire and check for spark on the end of it, may produce false results, because there will likely be spark found when key is on. But that spark might not be strong enough to do the job. When my ICM was bad, I noticed the the spark was kind of bluish-orange in color. I checked after the engine stalled and with the key still on. The spark from a properly functioning ICM is white hot. Definitely easy to distinguish from the weak spark.
There is a more precise check where you can check the ohms on your ignitor to see if it is in spec. See if you can find a repair manual for your year to see what terminals on the ignitor to put your multimeter on. Or, if your distributor has a lot f miles on it, consider just replacing it with an oem aftermar
I've changed the whole distriburator and car started right up but after a few minutes died and I tried to start it and it would not ,so I moved the distriburator and cranked it again and started right up but after a few minute it died again this is a customer's car and they are getting tired of me guessing the problem n spending money n I got more work to do but if I don't get this one done I don't get pay not i can't continue my work please HELP
On these cars, the normal test of the ignitor, which is to pull a plug wire and check for spark on the end of it, may produce false results, because there will likely be spark found when key is on. But that spark might not be strong enough to do the job. When my ICM was bad, I noticed the the spark was kind of bluish-orange in color. I checked after the engine stalled and with the key still on. The spark from a properly functioning ICM is white hot. Definitely easy to distinguish from the weak spark.
There is a more precise check where you can check the ohms on your ignitor to see if it is in spec. See if you can find a repair manual for your year to see what terminals on the ignitor to put your multimeter on. Or, if your distributor has a lot f miles on it, consider just replacing it with an oem aftermar
I've changed the whole distriburator and car started right up but after a few minutes died and I tried to start it and it would not ,so I moved the distriburator and cranked it again and started right up but after a few minute it died again this is a customer's car and they are getting tired of me guessing the problem n spending money n I got more work to do but if I don't get this one done I don't get pay not i can't continue my work please HELP
Where is the ignition coil on the '94 Accord? You might check it also, especially of there is any sputtering at all before it cuts off.
Have you read any codes that might be stored in the computer? Didn't know you were a shop, but checking the readout from the computer is first step.
Good luck.
Have you read any codes that might be stored in the computer? Didn't know you were a shop, but checking the readout from the computer is first step.
Good luck.
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