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I am new to this forum and looking for a little help. My 2005 Honda Accord EXL V6 has seemingly lost all power to the driver side rear door. The power window quit working completely about six months ago. I thought it was the master window switch on the drivers door which seems to be an accord issue. I replaced the master power switch and still nothing. A few weeks ago the power lock quit working on the same door. I replaced the actuator and still nothing. I know the power window switch on that door is working fine as I have swapped it out for the passenger side rear door and it works fine over there.
Are there some specific places to look for wire wear or anything like that? I did look at the wires as best I could in the door jambs but didn’t see anything obviously broken or bare wires.
Any light anyone can shed on this would be awesome!
There is a gray 10P connector located in the left B pillar that connects the floor wire harness (left side) to left rear door wire harness. Check the wiring on both the B pillar side and the door side; you'll have to pull the rubber boot off.. There is one person who made an incision through the rubber to examine the wiring there.
Thanks for the post! I did pull that rubber out and look but didn’t see anything. I didn’t want to break the rubber it so I did not manhandle it too much. I will go back in there and dig a bit more and see if I come up with any broken wires.
Any suggestions as to where to go next if I don’t find anything broken there?
If you don't find any broken wires, you can do several tests on the wiring. This test is to check whether the signal coming from the driver's door multiplex control unit is getting to the left rear door.
With a voltmeter, touch the red lead to pin 9 (Yel/Blk wire) of the gray 10P connector and the black lead of the meter to chassis/body ground. There should be voltage in the LOCK position. If there is voltage, touch the black lead to pin 1 (Blk) of the 10P connector, is there still voltage? -- Use the LOCK and UNLOCK at the driver's door master switch when you're doing these tests.
Next, touch the red lead to pin 8 (Yel wire) of the gray 10P connector and the black lead of the meter to chassis/body ground. There should be voltage in the UNLOCK position. If there is voltage, touch the black lead to pin 1 (Blk) of the 10P connector, is there still voltage?
Note: If you backprobe the 10P connector, you do not have to disconnect it. You can use something like a T pin, available at Walmart, etc., and backprobe. These pictures are just to give a picture of the concept of backprobing without piercing any wires.