alright so the car itself is a
1991 Civic Si chassis
OBD1 D16Z6
OBD1 Distributor (eBay, New)
OBD1 P28 ECU with HA Chip (i ordered a crome chip but im unsure if it was crome before? it said SST on it so i assumed?)
New Wiring Harness

I got a code 6 on there that kept the car from starting before all of this happened, changed it like a week or two ago and now im getting code 6 again? its a Duralast unit but something keeps killing them and throwing the code?

the first video is after the ECU has been freshly reset, not tried to start..the light stays solid
the second video is with the diagnostic connected, not tried to start, gives code 6, 10, 22 (coolant temp sensor, ait, vtech switch)
the third video is trying to start it, diagnotic not connected..it starts for a second, tach jumps up to 5k or so and it dies.
the fourth video is running the diagnotic again, after trying to start and getting the same codes with the code 4 added (distributor)

i think i may have a combination of issues...the ect is bad (again?) and the new /eBay/ distributor is bad straight out of the box?? i had to repin the CYP input and ground because they were mixed up on the new distributor and im still getting the code 4 after i try to start it..

i have also NOT retimed it since replacing the distributor because it wont stay on but the timing being off shouldnt throw a code 4, right?

the only thing in the whole system i havent replaced is the ECU...would it be worth it to exchange the distributor and exchange the ect and see if that helps? as well as adding the vtec pressure switch it wants, mine is currently plugged and also replacing the ait..

im at a loss...someone helppppp
-Mikey

 

I have had more then one ebay distributor bad right out of the box. They are junk.

Try a stock z6 ECU if you have one, and swap on a buddy's working dizzy.

 

true..eBay distrbutors are crap i guess..i got an autozone one (not much better) so we'll see..i also got another P28 ecu last night and swapped the new chip into it..will report back soon..thank you!

 

What do you mean swapped the chip into a new ecu? Are both ecu's socketed?

 

tried a new ecu that isnt socketed and still nothing..check engine light wont turn off when the key is on and fuel pump is primed..

 

when you turn the key after the fuel pump primes the check engine light is supposed to turn off just before you start it but mine stays on and the car won’t start I’ve tried three different ECUs two chipped units and an untouched unit not sure what to check next

 

Where did this "New Wiring Harness" come from. I've always read in the past it's much better to modify what you have as apposed to trying to get something from another car and making it work. FYI ect can keep your car from running if it's bad, pretty cheap easily replaceable part.

 

it came from the exact same chassis just uncut..ect is brand new

 

Wish I could help you more, but I'm not as familiar with D series stuff anymore. Make sure your IACV plug isn't mixed up with your TPS plug. Outside of that, I believe you have some wiring issues going on. Seems like your just going to have to go step by step and get down to what signals those sensors should be sending to the ECU.
Not much help but, FYI. When you have a CEL on the light will always stay solid until you connect the service wire. I assume your running a jumper harness from OBD0 to OBD1, make sure that nothing got disconnected there some of those jumper harness' are not exactly top notch quality.

 

what jumper harness are you running and dizzy jumpers?

 

not sure to be honest.. a local guy made the harness with the jumper/sub harness..