Its really not half bad. You are goimg to need a general socket set probably 8mm thru 14mm.. a torx wrench.. of course head gasket, intake and exhaust gaskets, valve cover gasket set, and i recommend getting the head bolts. if it has return springs probably those too. its a pretty straight foreward job. Just make sure to keep the timing set and bolt the head down in the propper order and force

 

Do a dry and wet compression test prior to removing the head.
Good to have a set of regular and deep well metric sockets and varying extension sizes. You will need a torque wrench for the head bolts.

Download a free copy of 96-00 Civic Service Manual as that will be your guide. Purchase a Honda genuine (OEM) head gasket, intake manifold gasket, valve cover gasket + spark plug hole seals. New head bolts are optional but they are inexpensive and in general good practice to replace. Would be a good time to replace the thermostat as well. When the head is at the machinist best to have it milled flat, hot tanked (cleaned), valves lapped and polished, new valve stem seals, valve springs tested, It should cost be between $225-$300 for all that depending on which machinist you use but knowing that the valves will be seated properly and not losing compression, plus new valves stem seals preventing oil loss is worth the extra cost if you plan to keep the car for a while. Do not let the intake manifold or head (after removal) rest on the knock sensor as it will break it. Once the head is off do not rest it horizonatally..keep it vertical.

Remove the head with the first cylinder at TDC. After the head is off oil the cylinder walls to prevent rust...it's okay to rotate the crank to lube all cylinders then return the first cylinder to TDC. Drain the oil and inspect for coolant..it may not be mixed with oil (milkshake appearance) but if the engine overheated there's a very good chance that there will be some coolant in the oil pan riding on top of the oil.

When it's time to insert the new head bolts make absolutely sure the block's receiving threads for head bolts are clean as possible and have no liquid in them. Can spray brake cleaner inside the block threads to clean and either suction out or use compressed air to blow out. Prior to inserting head bolts lube with a light/thin coat of oil to help reduce binding. The video below has very good tips for head-gasket replacement:

 

Only if you like doing the same job twice.

 

easy there, killer. i've done dozens of d series head jobs. not once have i used new head bolts, not once have i had an issue.

 

 

If you weren't reusing them you wouldn't have had to do it dozens of times

 

different cars, dickmouth. i've been working on cars (mostly honda and acura products) for 16 years.

 

it's really important to check the block for straightness as well

you'll need a straight edge and a .001 inch feeler gauge, the feeler gauge should not be able to fit under the straight edge in any of the middle spots of the straight edge when set in several positions across the face of the block

 

Just because you spent 16 yrs working on them doesn't mean you don't suck at it.


OP: You can either do it right or half-*** it. Up to you. $20-30 is not worth having to potentially remove the head again and deal with a broken bolt.

 

There's a 20 year Honda dealership mechanic on another site who really knows these cars and he has responded on many occasions that for 5th, 6th and 7th gens the stock head-bolts can be re-used without issue.
Again: they are not TTY bolts so it's optional. I used new ones on a 6th gen I did a few years ago mainly because of the guy's suggestion via the head-gasket video I posted previously. Just because you "feel" you're right doesn't make it so. Trying to prove you're correct through "feelings" should be left to the skirts...lol.

 

 

 

[QUOTE=Just1nK4ng;51655230]im buying a reman for 1250$ rebuilding my old engine on a stand at my leisure, have custom decked head and syncrotech transmission for the re-build. you should have just bough re manufactured would be the same price. reman just needs oil pan...

 

The best way to truly confirm a head gasket breach is to do a leak-down test (compressed air into cylinders) for each cylinders and look for bubbles in the radiator while cap is off.
Another test is a Block Test. However, a block test is only accurate if the blue test fluid turns green or yellow and detects a breach that is allowing exhaust gases to enter the coolant. It may not detect other types of head gasket breaching.

 

The most basic test is to have the cooling system full and the engine completely cold. Take the radiator cap off and start the engine and rev it. If bubbles or coolant blow out of the radiator, there is a problem. There shouldn't be much of any action in the radiator until the engine warms up and the thermostat opens.

 

I would opt for the new bolts... worth the piece of mind imo. I did it a while back and snapped a bolt. Had to wait two weeks to get it back up and running.

 

What bout using headbolts an not putting em back in the same spot

 

Don't put headbolts randomly back in. Either put them back specifically where they were, after cleaning out the holes with air and lightly oiling the bolts or--much better--using new bolts. I reused mine, very carefully, but I wonder if I will regret it. That wondering makes me think it was not worth the small savings to me.

 

I am in the process of a head gasket replacement on a d16y8.. I am wondering what all will I need to do the job, to do the job right. I know I need a Honda OEM headgasket and also cylinder head bolts. How many cylinder head bolts are there? If anyone has any information to give me I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks in advance

 

Please start your own thread with all your pertinent car details. Reference this thread if you like. That will make it easier for current active users to help you instead of bumping old threads that are from other users in the past.