Fuel Pump NOT Priming - 95 Integra LS Special with Swap
Hey guys, long time between posts..
I have a fueling issue.
Summary:
1995 Acura Integra LS - Special Edition with a Poor Man's Type R swap. The swap is a OBD-1 95 B18c1 P72 block from a wrecked GS-R with an OBD-1 95 B16a3 P30 head from a Del Sol VTEC that I wrecked. The ECU is a P30 from the Del Sol VTEC with Hondata s300. I am assuming the ECU is OBD1 as I forgot to check the label when I put the car away. The ECU is known working as it powered my Del Sol until it met its unfortunate demise. It even worked when we were moving the car around in its wrecked state.
Picking up the 95 Integra shell, I swapped all of the good Del Sol bits (suspension, wheels, etcetera) to the Integra. I yanked out the engine, harness, and anything relevant from the Del Sol (high-comp CTR internals B16a3) and sent it to the junkyard and crusher. I also took the ECU and PGM-FI Main Relay, knowing they're common failure points due to leaks. I removed the fuel pump from the Del Sol, it is a known-working Walbro 255 that is just over a year old.
The Integra now has the new franken-engine, harness, fuel pump, and ecu from the Del Sol. It has a good working battery that cranks the car over easily.
Problem:
The fuel pump will not prime. No sound from the fuel pump area. Yes it is uncovered, so there is nothing obstructing my ability to hear the pump itself.
Attempted Solutions:
I've been reading around here and found similar situations, but all have had different solutions. I figure this will be the case. Any input? Testing methods? What else should I look for? What volts/amps/ohms should I expect when testing various elements of the car?
Thanks for the help in advance!
I have a fueling issue.
Summary:
1995 Acura Integra LS - Special Edition with a Poor Man's Type R swap. The swap is a OBD-1 95 B18c1 P72 block from a wrecked GS-R with an OBD-1 95 B16a3 P30 head from a Del Sol VTEC that I wrecked. The ECU is a P30 from the Del Sol VTEC with Hondata s300. I am assuming the ECU is OBD1 as I forgot to check the label when I put the car away. The ECU is known working as it powered my Del Sol until it met its unfortunate demise. It even worked when we were moving the car around in its wrecked state.
Picking up the 95 Integra shell, I swapped all of the good Del Sol bits (suspension, wheels, etcetera) to the Integra. I yanked out the engine, harness, and anything relevant from the Del Sol (high-comp CTR internals B16a3) and sent it to the junkyard and crusher. I also took the ECU and PGM-FI Main Relay, knowing they're common failure points due to leaks. I removed the fuel pump from the Del Sol, it is a known-working Walbro 255 that is just over a year old.
The Integra now has the new franken-engine, harness, fuel pump, and ecu from the Del Sol. It has a good working battery that cranks the car over easily.
Problem:
The fuel pump will not prime. No sound from the fuel pump area. Yes it is uncovered, so there is nothing obstructing my ability to hear the pump itself.
Attempted Solutions:
- We've checked dash fuse #24 and hood fuse #31 and to my amateur eye there isn't anything burned, frayed, broken, or missing. Nothing
- Swapped the PGM-FI main relay that came in the Integra with the PGM-FI main relay from the Del Sol that is known-working. Nothing
- Double-checked grounds
- Valve Cover ground is secured properly
- Transmission ground is secured properly.
- I used the one from the Del Sol without thinking. I do notice that the Integra one is a bit thicker in diameter compared to the Del Sol one.
- Thermostat Housing main ground is secured properly.
- Fit nice and snug and cleaned up of corrosion or anything that can get in the way with some sandpaper and a little bit of scotch-brite on the thermostat housing and on the connector itself. Could I have ruined the connection with being to liberal with the sandpaper and scotch-brite?
I've been reading around here and found similar situations, but all have had different solutions. I figure this will be the case. Any input? Testing methods? What else should I look for? What volts/amps/ohms should I expect when testing various elements of the car?
Thanks for the help in advance!
OBD2 ecu cannot be chipped. so you have obd1 ecu.
doesn't matter what Pxx ecu it is if its chipped as long as its not AT/5spd and has vtec(those can be changed anyways in ecu easy)
this is what I would do. pop the cap off of one of those main relays and relay fresh solder joints(google this) do it to both. they will never give you an issue after that.
if a fresh main doesn't work. wires.
power comes from ecu and ignition to main relay to fuel pump check that power wire from each jump find the break.
if its main. resolder main joints(do anyways)
pump no worky? test pump.
ecu issue?.....check if security is turned off on your S300...
doesn't matter what Pxx ecu it is if its chipped as long as its not AT/5spd and has vtec(those can be changed anyways in ecu easy)
this is what I would do. pop the cap off of one of those main relays and relay fresh solder joints(google this) do it to both. they will never give you an issue after that.
if a fresh main doesn't work. wires.
power comes from ecu and ignition to main relay to fuel pump check that power wire from each jump find the break.
if its main. resolder main joints(do anyways)
pump no worky? test pump.
ecu issue?.....check if security is turned off on your S300...
OBD2 ecu cannot be chipped. so you have obd1 ecu.
doesn't matter what Pxx ecu it is if its chipped as long as its not AT/5spd and has vtec(those can be changed anyways in ecu easy)
this is what I would do. pop the cap off of one of those main relays and relay fresh solder joints(google this) do it to both. they will never give you an issue after that.
if a fresh main doesn't work. wires.
power comes from ecu and ignition to main relay to fuel pump check that power wire from each jump find the break.
if its main. resolder main joints(do anyways)
pump no worky? test pump.
ecu issue?.....check if security is turned off on your S300...
doesn't matter what Pxx ecu it is if its chipped as long as its not AT/5spd and has vtec(those can be changed anyways in ecu easy)
this is what I would do. pop the cap off of one of those main relays and relay fresh solder joints(google this) do it to both. they will never give you an issue after that.
if a fresh main doesn't work. wires.
power comes from ecu and ignition to main relay to fuel pump check that power wire from each jump find the break.
if its main. resolder main joints(do anyways)
pump no worky? test pump.
ecu issue?.....check if security is turned off on your S300...
I'll look at the main relay and check the condition. If it is visibly bad, I will be using your google recommendation to repair any poor connections.
Wires is what I'm thinking. I'll follow the path you gave me of ECU + Ignition ----> Main Relay ----> Fuel Pump.
I'm confident in the pump as it was working perfectly fine when removed from the dead Del Sol. I will check the s300 security feature, for all I know it could have been on while in the Del Sol and never had an issue.
I've managed to secure a 95 FSM to go through for troubleshooting. Hopefully that works.
Thanks for the tips!
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ulieq
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Aug 19, 2010 07:14 PM



