Swapping the head on a D16Y7 with a rebuilt D16Y7 head. I have the head off, now what?

Clean it, install new cam and crank seals, new head studs and gaskets, torque head properly, set valve lash, set timing, reassemble everything else?

What am I missing I've never done this, thanks!

 

Where did you get the new head and what was done on it?..such as: machine shop milled (straightened) it flat, new valve stem seals, valve lapp, cylinder head hot-tanked clean, valves cleaned and polished + checked for any compression leaks. If, the head wasn't milled flat bring to a machine shop first for inspection and estimate. If the head is not flat within tolerance (.002") it will not seal and you'll have to repeat the process.

Use a Honda genuine (OEM) head gasket only. Clean the top of the block with a razor blade and brake cleaner spray (or other acceptable solvent). Try to avoid digging into the metal block with the razor..scrape lightly and carefully. The block and head mating surfaces need to be as clean as possible to avoid sealing issues. Same goes for intake manifold and any metal mating surfaces.

Be a good time to replace the thermostat (OEM). set valves adjustment (lash). You'll most likely need to order an intake manifold gasket.
Download a free 96-00 Honda Civic service manual online and follow it to the letter for all repairs on your engine. HondaPartsNow has good prices on Honda genuine (OEM) parts. You can re-use the head bolts or purchase new from the site I recommended or other similar sites.

Make absolutely sure whether using head bolts or ARP studs that the cylinder head receiving threads (for head-bolts) are clean and dry during the install. You don't want debris or fluid in/on the receiving threads, studs or bolts to create unwanted compression. If you use head bolts apply a very fine film of oil to bolt threads prior to installing to help lessen compression..make sure the oil is on the threads only and not pooling on the tip of the bolt..the tip should be dry.

This video (and part 2) has great tips for any head gasket replacement:

 

 

Thanks that was a great video. Three questions:

First, I can't seem to get the left over gasket off of the intake manifold, i sprayed brake cleaner on it, WD-40, aircraft paint remover, anything I could think if that wouldn't damage the intake mating surface and NO luck. I tried scraping it with a razor blade, it only takes the very surface layer off, what should I do?

Second, how far in should the cam seal(near sprocket) go when I press the new seal in, I think I pressed the new seal in WAY too far so I'm gonna go pick another one up tomorrow and just press it in more gently.

Third, once I hook everything back up, I will need to set the timing again, right? I do that before setting valve lash? Any special tools I need for that?

Thanks guys I'm very new at head swap/head work.

 

1. scrape off the old gunk with a metal scraper
2. cam seal should be flush with the side
3. yes, timing is important. Set the engine to TDC, then do valve lash adjustment. On SOHC, no special tool is needed

 

You didn't answer my questions concerning the "rebuilt head" was it machined and if not are you going to take it to a machinist? Besides milling flat a machinist can hot tank the head to get old gasket off as well as carbon and other debris. If, you're trying to remove the gasket from just the intake manifold you can plug the ports with rags and use scotchbrite pads... but make 100% you do not get any of the pads grit/dust inside the ports, or inside the block's cylinders. Cover the block with a towel and lightly oil the cylinder to prevent rust while the head is off. You don't want any scotchbrite dust/grit getting into the engine as it can scratch and wear down internals (bearings,crank,etc..).

I've never replaced one so I'm not sure. Check the service manual. If you can find the answer and no one responds then ask the same question here: https://www.civicforums.com/forums/ There's a couple members there that are long time Honda dealership mechanics and will know the answer.

Yes, you will need to ensure the cam and crank timing are in-sync. Do the valve lash after timing is correct. There is this tool: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Powerbuilt-10-mm-Jam-Nut-Valve-Adjustment-Tool-648827/204505244?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CG%7CBase%7CD25T%7C25-1_HAND+TOOLS%7CNA%7CPLA%7c71700000034127224%7c5870 0003933021546%7c92700031755124844&gclid=EAIaIQobCh MIl_XFzsCt2wIVUdbACh2Q5gDGEAQYASABEgJkGPD_BwE&dcli d=CKyy29PArdsCFcbewAodI3oOvQ but it's not necessary...can use a 10 mm box wrench and a flat-head screwdriver.