Persistent Code 09 with all new parts?
Currently going crazy over a worsening code 9, CYP sensor/signal.
Working on a 1995 Accord LX 2.2L non vtec f22b2. Bought the vehicle from someone about 2 months ago after he had odd and end issues he fixed and finally got fed up when a transmission line blew. He filled me on in a few things like the IAC acting up, weird idle, little things I wasn't worried about till I knew the tranny was ok. Fixed up the transmission line and drive it home from where I had it towed. Drove like a charm. Noticed it had a very slight misfire and the exhaust sounds like it's moving lots of air (not used to 4 bangers with small ID exhaust, maybe indicator of strong motor).Finally third day tinkering with it, cleaning it up and all, I go to start it up and it immidiately dies. Start it up, dies. Start it up, hesistates and starts with code 9. Fast forward a few days and it seemingly happens in the morning and goes away during the day. Intermittent code 9 came and went. So,
Previous owner replaced dist, but figured maybe it was bad. Replaced with a New unit from Advanced Auto, almost positively a TEC based unit. Didn't fix the issue. Tested electrical output from distributor prongs, about 398 ohms for all three sensors (CKP, TDC, CYP) which is perfect. No continuity.
On to testing the ecu, plug B pins B11 and B12 were probed to measure CYP and it was around 400 if I remember correctly, which is also within spec. *Forgot to test for continuity to ground here*. Assuming it was the computer, it was replaced with a New P0J-A60.
Computer didn't do the trick, code came back. Kept diggi g through years of posts from this forum and other websites and most questions went unqnswered or the answer was odd - like ignition coil and alternator. So for ***** and gigs, I replaced spark plug wires which were rough, new plugs, and ignition coil even though the old coil electrically tested fine. Had a spare good battery sitting around, and swapped out the seemingly 10+ year old battery that wasn't holding it's cranking amps anymore (~300ca at 12.7) with a 750 ca battery. While I was doing all this work, I also re-timed it. Stuck the plug to the service connector while warm, and set it back to the middle red mark (no VECI sticker to know what degree it is).
So with new battery, spark plugs, wires, ignition coil, distributor , computer, tested wiring and timing redone, the car runs great for two days. Wake up today to go, immidiately throws CEL and takes four or 5 times to start and idles low considering it's cold (1000rpm usually 1500 right off the bat). Code f**king 9 again!
The only thing I can think of right now is to test for continutity to ground at Plug B B11/b12 because I forgot to, but seeing as the resistance was within spec I don't think that would be a major red flag, unless someone out here thinks otherwise, I'm open to anything at this point. And yes, I tried "unplugging it and plugging it back in"... 😂
Any help would be appreciated!
Working on a 1995 Accord LX 2.2L non vtec f22b2. Bought the vehicle from someone about 2 months ago after he had odd and end issues he fixed and finally got fed up when a transmission line blew. He filled me on in a few things like the IAC acting up, weird idle, little things I wasn't worried about till I knew the tranny was ok. Fixed up the transmission line and drive it home from where I had it towed. Drove like a charm. Noticed it had a very slight misfire and the exhaust sounds like it's moving lots of air (not used to 4 bangers with small ID exhaust, maybe indicator of strong motor).Finally third day tinkering with it, cleaning it up and all, I go to start it up and it immidiately dies. Start it up, dies. Start it up, hesistates and starts with code 9. Fast forward a few days and it seemingly happens in the morning and goes away during the day. Intermittent code 9 came and went. So,
Previous owner replaced dist, but figured maybe it was bad. Replaced with a New unit from Advanced Auto, almost positively a TEC based unit. Didn't fix the issue. Tested electrical output from distributor prongs, about 398 ohms for all three sensors (CKP, TDC, CYP) which is perfect. No continuity.
On to testing the ecu, plug B pins B11 and B12 were probed to measure CYP and it was around 400 if I remember correctly, which is also within spec. *Forgot to test for continuity to ground here*. Assuming it was the computer, it was replaced with a New P0J-A60.
Computer didn't do the trick, code came back. Kept diggi g through years of posts from this forum and other websites and most questions went unqnswered or the answer was odd - like ignition coil and alternator. So for ***** and gigs, I replaced spark plug wires which were rough, new plugs, and ignition coil even though the old coil electrically tested fine. Had a spare good battery sitting around, and swapped out the seemingly 10+ year old battery that wasn't holding it's cranking amps anymore (~300ca at 12.7) with a 750 ca battery. While I was doing all this work, I also re-timed it. Stuck the plug to the service connector while warm, and set it back to the middle red mark (no VECI sticker to know what degree it is).
So with new battery, spark plugs, wires, ignition coil, distributor , computer, tested wiring and timing redone, the car runs great for two days. Wake up today to go, immidiately throws CEL and takes four or 5 times to start and idles low considering it's cold (1000rpm usually 1500 right off the bat). Code f**king 9 again!
The only thing I can think of right now is to test for continutity to ground at Plug B B11/b12 because I forgot to, but seeing as the resistance was within spec I don't think that would be a major red flag, unless someone out here thinks otherwise, I'm open to anything at this point. And yes, I tried "unplugging it and plugging it back in"... 😂
Any help would be appreciated!
how do the harness connectors for the distributor look ? are they internally corroded ? test for continuity from the connectors back to the corresponding pins at the ecu connectors while wiggling wires around to see if there's an intermittent break in the wiring
ya you got something going on with that connector, you might need to grab another connector from the junkyard and swap it in, you might want to grab another ecu thats the same too and swap that in at the same time just in case yours is bad
not too common to have connectors like that burnt
not too common to have connectors like that burnt
I'm thinking as well. But the computer has now been swapped with 2 brand new units to no avail - this has to be some sort of ground issue. My next up is rewiring two wires from the ecu to the distributor connector to see if that solves the issue. If it does, I'll know it was a intermittent break in the old wires.
I'm thinking as well. But the computer has now been swapped with 2 brand new units to no avail - this has to be some sort of ground issue. My next up is rewiring two wires from the ecu to the distributor connector to see if that solves the issue. If it does, I'll know it was a intermittent break in the old wires.
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crx_91si
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Jan 22, 2002 05:06 PM



