Hi, so im trying to get maximum power through an N/A set up on a B16a2 Ek4 and was just wondering what he best possible combination for this was.

At this moment in time my engine is running stock internals, i do have a set of B18c cams, which i am going to install.

So what would you guys recommend as the best modification.
I was thinking about a stroker kit however after doing a bit or reading i found out installing a stroker kit onto a B16a2 was not the best of ideas.
So i was thinking maybe going for a B18c block onto my B16a2 head, and installing a stroker kit onto that, would this work ?
My knowledge on stroker kits is minimal so any in put would be much appreciated.

 

I would not recommend a stroker kit for a daily driver.

LS/VTEC or B20VTEC would give you best bang for buck while still being reliable. With GSR cams and some good bolt ons you could get like 190WHP or so, something like that.

 

B18C block would be great in case you do ever decide to go forced induction tho.

 

 

I initially planning on installing b20 block however from reading a few threads and doing some research people were saying that when installing a b20 block its kind of hit and miss, so that kind of put me off that. So i was looking into a b18c short block?

 

My plan is to stay N/A and i know it wont be easy and will cost quite of bit of money to extract a lot of power N/A. So im just trying to find the best possible mortification to extract most power.

 

B18 bottom end, LS crank, B16 head, 12:1+ compression, Skunk2 Pro 2 cams, adjustable cam gears, RDX or other quality injectors, a solid tune, and you'll be in the 210whp-230whp range. I recommend "overbuilding" your engine for later on when 200whp doesn't feel fast enough, like what happened to me. Forged internals, top ring end gap of .016 or more, and you'll have some room to grow.

 

whoever is saying that b20 blocks are hit or miss is either

A) taking shortcuts and when the engine lets go, they blame something other than their own decisions

or

B) has never built one and is repeating things that they heard from a friend or on the internet

or

C) is living in 1995 when b20/vtec was still new and no one knew the right combination of parts to make it work correctly.



it can be done reliably. look up bambams "how to build a reliable ls/vtec" thread to see how.

 

Ok thanks for that ill check that out, i will be re-building the engine high compression pistons e.t.c, what do you reckon would be better a B20 ot B18 bottom end, also should i rebuild by mix and matching honda OEM parts or should i go for after market parts.

 

YCP pistons as mentioned above are a great option. Shotpeened LS/B20 rods would be fine, when supplemented with ARP rod bolts. Forged rods, even cheap ones, would be a good upgrade if you could afford it.

B18B or B20B/Z block would both be great, overall WHP/torque difference between the two would be fairly minimal, I'd say go for whichever block you can find in better condition or easier. Make sure you get one with a healthy crank and matching main journals.

B20VTEC or LSVTEC is 100% as reliable as any OEM engine when assembled correctly and with the right tolerances. Far from rocket science.