Acura Integra All Integra Except ITR

Removing Ignition Rotor

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Old May 8, 2018 | 04:17 AM
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Default Removing Ignition Rotor

I have a new to me 2000 Integra I just bought and I've been going through it replacing all the easily replaceable parts I can since I do not have a maintenance history on it. However, one of the items - the rotor inside the distributor cap - doesn't show any easy way for me to remove it. I know it is held in place by an allen bolt (according to Chilton's manual), but I cannot see nor access the bolt in question. The whole outside and backside of the rotor is covered by a plastic shield of sorts, which I could remove to get to the bolt if I bent it forcefully enough to get out of the way. I would rather not do that though.

Anyone know what I am missing here? Or am I not missing anything, and I just need to unbolt the distributor itself to be able to get the rotor off (surely not!)?
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Old May 8, 2018 | 06:44 AM
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Default Re: Removing Ignition Rotor

First off, it should be a phillips head screw not an allen bolt if I remember correctly. But anyway, take off the distributor cap. Then you crank the engine counter clockwise (when viewing from the crank pulley) until the screw shows itself in the little opening of the plastic shield. NOW, I would highly recommend using a T-handle screw driver for this. Reason being is these little screws can sometimes get really stuck in there and being a phillips head and not a hex bolt, you can round down the corners a lot easier. Using a T-handle makes it easy to really push in on the screw while getting more torque when you turn it. If it's stuck at all, you really won't be able to get it with a regular screw driver (at least from my experience).
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Old May 8, 2018 | 06:50 AM
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Default Re: Removing Ignition Rotor

Originally Posted by jdmark1
First off, it should be a phillips head screw not an allen bolt if I remember correctly. But anyway, take off the distributor cap. Then you crank the engine counter clockwise (when viewing from the crank pulley) until the screw shows itself in the little opening of the plastic shield. NOW, I would highly recommend using a T-handle screw driver for this. Reason being is these little screws can sometimes get really stuck in there and being a phillips head and not a hex bolt, you can round down the corners a lot easier. Using a T-handle makes it easy to really push in on the screw while getting more torque when you turn it. If it's stuck at all, you really won't be able to get it with a regular screw driver (at least from my experience).
It’s a little disconcerting that the Chilton’s manual doesnt list that procedure for removing the rotor (it just says ‘remove the rotor’, I wonder what else they skip the details on...

Anyway, thanks for the info, I’ll give it a day in court this evening.

Nuke
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Old May 9, 2018 | 10:57 AM
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Default Re: Removing Ignition Rotor

be sure to use the exact philips head bit and you might want to let it soak in pb blaster for a day or two first. the rotor loves rust welding to the shaft, even after i got the screw out, the rotor was stuck on there.
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Old May 9, 2018 | 11:00 AM
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Default Re: Removing Ignition Rotor

get a helms manual, you can find them online, its the manual they have at the dealer
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Old May 9, 2018 | 12:18 PM
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Default Re: Removing Ignition Rotor

My rotor didn't have a set screw either, just pull really hard and it'll pop off.
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Old May 9, 2018 | 01:46 PM
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Default Re: Removing Ignition Rotor

Originally Posted by MotorMouth93
My rotor didn't have a set screw either, just pull really hard and it'll pop off.
what car ?
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Old May 9, 2018 | 03:03 PM
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Default Re: Removing Ignition Rotor

1999 Integra
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Old May 9, 2018 | 08:10 PM
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Default Re: Removing Ignition Rotor

Originally Posted by jdmark1
First off, it should be a phillips head screw not an allen bolt if I remember correctly. But anyway, take off the distributor cap. Then you crank the engine counter clockwise (when viewing from the crank pulley) until the screw shows itself in the little opening of the plastic shield. NOW, I would highly recommend using a T-handle screw driver for this. Reason being is these little screws can sometimes get really stuck in there and being a phillips head and not a hex bolt, you can round down the corners a lot easier. Using a T-handle makes it easy to really push in on the screw while getting more torque when you turn it. If it's stuck at all, you really won't be able to get it with a regular screw driver (at least from my experience).
X2 remove cap, rotate engine so screw is accessible, and remove. rinse and repeat
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Old May 9, 2018 | 09:00 PM
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Default Re: Removing Ignition Rotor

Originally Posted by egsleepercivic
get a helms manual, you can find them online, its the manual they have at the dealer
i guess I will have to, I’m finding lots of little things missing from the Chiltons manual which probably aren’t a big deal to anyone who’s worked on these cars before, I’m coming in new with all my experience spent fixing chevy’s, Mopar, etc. So I need all the details I can get if I am going to fix more things than I break.

Originally Posted by MotorMouth93
My rotor didn't have a set screw either, just pull really hard and it'll pop off.
ill save that for last. If nothing I try ends up working, I’ll take my frustrations on it my pulling that off there with a come-along, a prybar, or maybe even something more explosive!

Originally Posted by Lord Orange
X2 remove cap, rotate engine so screw is accessible, and remove. rinse and repeat
i cannot see a way to access the crank bolt well enough to turn the engine without a lot of extra work clearing a path first. That’s more effort than I want to invest at the moment, so I’m going to leave the rotor for later.

i still have several low-hanging fruit to occupy my time for now, i’ll Revisit the rotor sometime in the future.

thanks to everyone for the replies!
nuke
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Old May 10, 2018 | 05:03 AM
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Default Re: Removing Ignition Rotor

>Lift front of car or front drivers side
>pull front driver wheel off
>clear path to crank pulley
>lot of extra work?
>wat?
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Old May 10, 2018 | 05:12 AM
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Default Re: Removing Ignition Rotor

My man, rotating the crank is very easy. If you still have the power steering pump attached just rotate the crank through that. It's a super accessible spot. If not, then pop off the driver's side wheel and there's a spot in the wheel well lining to stick a 6" extension through right to the crank pulley bolt. Or, if you don't want to do either or those, just keep starting your engine until the little screw shows itself. Then PB blaster and a T handle to get the screw out.
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Old May 10, 2018 | 07:41 AM
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Default Re: Removing Ignition Rotor

Why not just mark the position and take the distributor off? It's 3 bolts...
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Old May 10, 2018 | 07:45 AM
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Default Re: Removing Ignition Rotor

Because even though that's easy, cranking it is even easier...
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Old May 10, 2018 | 08:04 AM
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Default Re: Removing Ignition Rotor

Originally Posted by MotorMouth93
Why not just mark the position and take the distributor off? It's 3 bolts...
That was my first thought, but I was reticent to pull the distro for fear of having a timing issue once I got done stabbing it. I put "read up on the likelihood of creating a timing problem by pulling and reinstalling the distributor" on my mental 'to-do' list in anticipation of trying this approach later, but so far I haven't worked my way down the list that far yet.

Originally Posted by jdmark1
Because even though that's easy, cranking it is even easier...
Cranking it is surely easier, but pulling everything but the kitchen sink off the car to get to the crank bolt surely isn't. That was my mindset up until now, though I am wavering on it seeing as others have suggested it is not too bad to go through the wheel well. I shall have to take a look at that route when I've got the wheel off and replacing the brake fluid later tonight.
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Old May 10, 2018 | 09:16 AM
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Default Re: Removing Ignition Rotor

Originally Posted by The Nuke
Cranking it is surely easier, but pulling everything but the kitchen sink off the car to get to the crank bolt surely isn't. That was my mindset up until now, though I am wavering on it seeing as others have suggested it is not too bad to go through the wheel well. I shall have to take a look at that route when I've got the wheel off and replacing the brake fluid later tonight.
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Old May 10, 2018 | 09:30 AM
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Default Re: Removing Ignition Rotor

Call me paranoid, but this wouldn’t happen to be one of those hazing rituals for new members where I log on asking about something really tricky, the membership at large advises it’s no problem and to just tear into it, then I wade in and get up to my knees in hopelessly busted parts, and finally log back on to ask what I did wrong/how do I regress my ingress, would it?

what am I saying that’s crazy...y’all would never admit to the prank before the prank plays out. Fine, I will do this, screw it all up, and come back and affirm that I have indeed been gotten, at which point everyone can have a good laugh at my expense and revel in the knowledge they have suckered another n00b...and THEN we can get down to business. Deal?

oh yeah, just one more question, does the headlight fluid need to be a special kind meant for Asian vehicles like the PS fluid or will any old headlight fluid do?
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Old May 10, 2018 | 10:44 AM
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Default Re: Removing Ignition Rotor

Not a hazing ritual, the distributor really is simple. The distributor alignment isn't as important as you might think, the ECU can adjust the timing on it's own so clocking the distributor just sets a baseline for the ECU to start from. If you mark it with a fine tip pen or sharp pencil and then line the marks up as close as possible when putting it back on you'll be fine, I've done it many times.

Or if you don't want to pull the distributor off, do like jdmark1 said and put a wrench on the power steering pulley and turn it, or if you don't want to do that for some reason, the crank pulley bolt is easy to get to as well if you take off the driver side wheel and stick a socket on it. It really is that simple.

This is an old Honda motor we're talking about, the only way you can really **** up that badly is by doing some seriously stupid **** like running water through your crankcase.
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Old May 10, 2018 | 11:53 AM
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Default Re: Removing Ignition Rotor

Originally Posted by MotorMouth93
Not a hazing ritual, the distributor really is simple. The distributor alignment isn't as important as you might think, the ECU can adjust the timing on it's own so clocking the distributor just sets a baseline for the ECU to start from. If you mark it with a fine tip pen or sharp pencil and then line the marks up as close as possible when putting it back on you'll be fine, I've done it many times.

Or if you don't want to pull the distributor off, do like jdmark1 said and put a wrench on the power steering pulley and turn it, or if you don't want to do that for some reason, the crank pulley bolt is easy to get to as well if you take off the driver side wheel and stick a socket on it. It really is that simple.

This is an old Honda motor we're talking about, the only way you can really **** up that badly is by doing some seriously stupid **** like running water through your crankcase.
X2^^ I get that you don't want to "mess anything up" but's this is super simple stuff. Just stick a GD 19mm wrench on the P/S pulley and rotate the crankshaft.... Or jack the car up, pop off the wheel and BAM! crank pulley bolt is right there. It's much easier than taking off a kitchen sink or whatever you were saying there.
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Old May 10, 2018 | 01:34 PM
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Default Re: Removing Ignition Rotor

Originally Posted by MotorMouth93
Not a hazing ritual, the distributor really is simple. The distributor alignment isn't as important as you might think, the ECU can adjust the timing on it's own so clocking the distributor just sets a baseline for the ECU to start from. If you mark it with a fine tip pen or sharp pencil and then line the marks up as close as possible when putting it back on you'll be fine, I've done it many times.

Or if you don't want to pull the distributor off, do like jdmark1 said and put a wrench on the power steering pulley and turn it, or if you don't want to do that for some reason, the crank pulley bolt is easy to get to as well if you take off the driver side wheel and stick a socket on it. It really is that simple.

This is an old Honda motor we're talking about, the only way you can really **** up that badly is by doing some seriously stupid **** like running water through your crankcase.
Originally Posted by jdmark1
X2^^ I get that you don't want to "mess anything up" but's this is super simple stuff. Just stick a GD 19mm wrench on the P/S pulley and rotate the crankshaft.... Or jack the car up, pop off the wheel and BAM! crank pulley bolt is right there. It's much easier than taking off a kitchen sink or whatever you were saying there.
alright, I guess I can trust y'all. after all, wasn't it Abe Lincoln who once said, "If you read it on the internet, you can believe it!"

And if there's one person I've always tried to emulate my life after, it's good ole Honest Abe!

thanks for the tips,
Nuke
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Old May 10, 2018 | 05:45 PM
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Default Re: Removing Ignition Rotor



my rotor’s favorite Corrosion of Conformity song is Broken Man off of their Deliverance album
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Old May 11, 2018 | 12:48 AM
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Default Re: Removing Ignition Rotor

Do yourself a favor and get this or at least a set of JIS Phillip bits

Motion Pro T-Handle Bit Driver with No. 1, 2 & 3 JIS Cross-Head Bits 08-0557
Amazon Amazon
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Old May 11, 2018 | 02:52 AM
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Default Re: Removing Ignition Rotor

That's the metal center of the rotor seized on to the shaft I assume. Did you manage to get the screw out?
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Old May 11, 2018 | 05:50 AM
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Default Re: Removing Ignition Rotor

Yup, remember what I said about soaking it in PB Blaster for a day or two before trying to take it off? Lol I guess not....
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Old May 11, 2018 | 09:32 AM
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Default Re: Removing Ignition Rotor

Originally Posted by jdmark1
That's the metal center of the rotor seized on to the shaft I assume. Did you manage to get the screw out?
You are correct and yes. Getting the screw out was easy-peazy hooker-sleazy. Getting the rotor to turn loose of the shaft was less easy...there was a screw driver, a rubber mallet, some zip ties, and then things went all red and I kinda blacked out; When I came to, the rotor had snapped off, sans its bottom portion, and I still have not figured out where it landed. Ultimately I was able to extract that little sucker, but only after uttering some truly foul cuss words and threatening the car with a pick axe.

All in all, it was a win for me...not my prettiest win ever, but a win nonetheless!


Originally Posted by CandyRedRC46
Yup, remember what I said about soaking it in PB Blaster for a day or two before trying to take it off? Lol I guess not....
I hit it with some of that stuff, but not for 1 or 2 days..more like 1 or 2 hours.

But I was very clear when I shot it, "Listen up Dirtbag! You've got 1 hour, ONE, to loosen up, so get busy loosening!!"

Clearly it didn't believe me, or maybe it thought I wouldn't follow through. Well, I reckon I showed that stinking distributor rotor how the cow eats the cabbage around HERE!

A-HAHAHAHAHA!!! NEXT!

Quick, bring me something else to fix before I get too drunk!!

*sigh*

too late, I'm already there...

thanks again for the mechanickel assistance,
Nuke, OUT!
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