Removing Ignition Rotor
I have a new to me 2000 Integra I just bought and I've been going through it replacing all the easily replaceable parts I can since I do not have a maintenance history on it. However, one of the items - the rotor inside the distributor cap - doesn't show any easy way for me to remove it. I know it is held in place by an allen bolt (according to Chilton's manual), but I cannot see nor access the bolt in question. The whole outside and backside of the rotor is covered by a plastic shield of sorts, which I could remove to get to the bolt if I bent it forcefully enough to get out of the way. I would rather not do that though.
Anyone know what I am missing here? Or am I not missing anything, and I just need to unbolt the distributor itself to be able to get the rotor off (surely not!)?
Anyone know what I am missing here? Or am I not missing anything, and I just need to unbolt the distributor itself to be able to get the rotor off (surely not!)?
First off, it should be a phillips head screw not an allen bolt if I remember correctly. But anyway, take off the distributor cap. Then you crank the engine counter clockwise (when viewing from the crank pulley) until the screw shows itself in the little opening of the plastic shield. NOW, I would highly recommend using a T-handle screw driver for this. Reason being is these little screws can sometimes get really stuck in there and being a phillips head and not a hex bolt, you can round down the corners a lot easier. Using a T-handle makes it easy to really push in on the screw while getting more torque when you turn it. If it's stuck at all, you really won't be able to get it with a regular screw driver (at least from my experience).
First off, it should be a phillips head screw not an allen bolt if I remember correctly. But anyway, take off the distributor cap. Then you crank the engine counter clockwise (when viewing from the crank pulley) until the screw shows itself in the little opening of the plastic shield. NOW, I would highly recommend using a T-handle screw driver for this. Reason being is these little screws can sometimes get really stuck in there and being a phillips head and not a hex bolt, you can round down the corners a lot easier. Using a T-handle makes it easy to really push in on the screw while getting more torque when you turn it. If it's stuck at all, you really won't be able to get it with a regular screw driver (at least from my experience).
Anyway, thanks for the info, I’ll give it a day in court this evening.
Nuke
be sure to use the exact philips head bit and you might want to let it soak in pb blaster for a day or two first. the rotor loves rust welding to the shaft, even after i got the screw out, the rotor was stuck on there.
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First off, it should be a phillips head screw not an allen bolt if I remember correctly. But anyway, take off the distributor cap. Then you crank the engine counter clockwise (when viewing from the crank pulley) until the screw shows itself in the little opening of the plastic shield. NOW, I would highly recommend using a T-handle screw driver for this. Reason being is these little screws can sometimes get really stuck in there and being a phillips head and not a hex bolt, you can round down the corners a lot easier. Using a T-handle makes it easy to really push in on the screw while getting more torque when you turn it. If it's stuck at all, you really won't be able to get it with a regular screw driver (at least from my experience).
i still have several low-hanging fruit to occupy my time for now, i’ll Revisit the rotor sometime in the future.
thanks to everyone for the replies!
nuke
My man, rotating the crank is very easy. If you still have the power steering pump attached just rotate the crank through that. It's a super accessible spot. If not, then pop off the driver's side wheel and there's a spot in the wheel well lining to stick a 6" extension through right to the crank pulley bolt. Or, if you don't want to do either or those, just keep starting your engine until the little screw shows itself. Then PB blaster and a T handle to get the screw out.
Cranking it is surely easier, but pulling everything but the kitchen sink off the car to get to the crank bolt surely isn't. That was my mindset up until now, though I am wavering on it seeing as others have suggested it is not too bad to go through the wheel well. I shall have to take a look at that route when I've got the wheel off and replacing the brake fluid later tonight.
Cranking it is surely easier, but pulling everything but the kitchen sink off the car to get to the crank bolt surely isn't. That was my mindset up until now, though I am wavering on it seeing as others have suggested it is not too bad to go through the wheel well. I shall have to take a look at that route when I've got the wheel off and replacing the brake fluid later tonight.
Call me paranoid, but this wouldn’t happen to be one of those hazing rituals for new members where I log on asking about something really tricky, the membership at large advises it’s no problem and to just tear into it, then I wade in and get up to my knees in hopelessly busted parts, and finally log back on to ask what I did wrong/how do I regress my ingress, would it?
what am I saying that’s crazy...y’all would never admit to the prank before the prank plays out. Fine, I will do this, screw it all up, and come back and affirm that I have indeed been gotten, at which point everyone can have a good laugh at my expense and revel in the knowledge they have suckered another n00b...and THEN we can get down to business. Deal?
oh yeah, just one more question, does the headlight fluid need to be a special kind meant for Asian vehicles like the PS fluid or will any old headlight fluid do?
what am I saying that’s crazy...y’all would never admit to the prank before the prank plays out. Fine, I will do this, screw it all up, and come back and affirm that I have indeed been gotten, at which point everyone can have a good laugh at my expense and revel in the knowledge they have suckered another n00b...and THEN we can get down to business. Deal?
oh yeah, just one more question, does the headlight fluid need to be a special kind meant for Asian vehicles like the PS fluid or will any old headlight fluid do?
Not a hazing ritual, the distributor really is simple. The distributor alignment isn't as important as you might think, the ECU can adjust the timing on it's own so clocking the distributor just sets a baseline for the ECU to start from. If you mark it with a fine tip pen or sharp pencil and then line the marks up as close as possible when putting it back on you'll be fine, I've done it many times.
Or if you don't want to pull the distributor off, do like jdmark1 said and put a wrench on the power steering pulley and turn it, or if you don't want to do that for some reason, the crank pulley bolt is easy to get to as well if you take off the driver side wheel and stick a socket on it. It really is that simple.
This is an old Honda motor we're talking about, the only way you can really **** up that badly is by doing some seriously stupid **** like running water through your crankcase.
Or if you don't want to pull the distributor off, do like jdmark1 said and put a wrench on the power steering pulley and turn it, or if you don't want to do that for some reason, the crank pulley bolt is easy to get to as well if you take off the driver side wheel and stick a socket on it. It really is that simple.
This is an old Honda motor we're talking about, the only way you can really **** up that badly is by doing some seriously stupid **** like running water through your crankcase.
Not a hazing ritual, the distributor really is simple. The distributor alignment isn't as important as you might think, the ECU can adjust the timing on it's own so clocking the distributor just sets a baseline for the ECU to start from. If you mark it with a fine tip pen or sharp pencil and then line the marks up as close as possible when putting it back on you'll be fine, I've done it many times.
Or if you don't want to pull the distributor off, do like jdmark1 said and put a wrench on the power steering pulley and turn it, or if you don't want to do that for some reason, the crank pulley bolt is easy to get to as well if you take off the driver side wheel and stick a socket on it. It really is that simple.
This is an old Honda motor we're talking about, the only way you can really **** up that badly is by doing some seriously stupid **** like running water through your crankcase.
Or if you don't want to pull the distributor off, do like jdmark1 said and put a wrench on the power steering pulley and turn it, or if you don't want to do that for some reason, the crank pulley bolt is easy to get to as well if you take off the driver side wheel and stick a socket on it. It really is that simple.
This is an old Honda motor we're talking about, the only way you can really **** up that badly is by doing some seriously stupid **** like running water through your crankcase.
Not a hazing ritual, the distributor really is simple. The distributor alignment isn't as important as you might think, the ECU can adjust the timing on it's own so clocking the distributor just sets a baseline for the ECU to start from. If you mark it with a fine tip pen or sharp pencil and then line the marks up as close as possible when putting it back on you'll be fine, I've done it many times.
Or if you don't want to pull the distributor off, do like jdmark1 said and put a wrench on the power steering pulley and turn it, or if you don't want to do that for some reason, the crank pulley bolt is easy to get to as well if you take off the driver side wheel and stick a socket on it. It really is that simple.
This is an old Honda motor we're talking about, the only way you can really **** up that badly is by doing some seriously stupid **** like running water through your crankcase.
Or if you don't want to pull the distributor off, do like jdmark1 said and put a wrench on the power steering pulley and turn it, or if you don't want to do that for some reason, the crank pulley bolt is easy to get to as well if you take off the driver side wheel and stick a socket on it. It really is that simple.
This is an old Honda motor we're talking about, the only way you can really **** up that badly is by doing some seriously stupid **** like running water through your crankcase.
X2^^ I get that you don't want to "mess anything up" but's this is super simple stuff. Just stick a GD 19mm wrench on the P/S pulley and rotate the crankshaft.... Or jack the car up, pop off the wheel and BAM! crank pulley bolt is right there. It's much easier than taking off a kitchen sink or whatever you were saying there.
And if there's one person I've always tried to emulate my life after, it's good ole Honest Abe!
thanks for the tips,
Nuke
Do yourself a favor and get this or at least a set of JIS Phillip bits
Motion Pro T-Handle Bit Driver with No. 1, 2 & 3 JIS Cross-Head Bits 08-0557
Motion Pro T-Handle Bit Driver with No. 1, 2 & 3 JIS Cross-Head Bits 08-0557
All in all, it was a win for me...not my prettiest win ever, but a win nonetheless!
But I was very clear when I shot it, "Listen up Dirtbag! You've got 1 hour, ONE, to loosen up, so get busy loosening!!"
Clearly it didn't believe me, or maybe it thought I wouldn't follow through. Well, I reckon I showed that stinking distributor rotor how the cow eats the cabbage around HERE!
A-HAHAHAHAHA!!! NEXT!
Quick, bring me something else to fix before I get too drunk!!
*sigh*
too late, I'm already there...
thanks again for the mechanickel assistance,
Nuke, OUT!




