Low Compression in Adjacent Cylinders
Hey guys,
Just as the title of the post says, I did a compression test (cooled down a little bit after having it up to operation temperature) and found that the cylinder 2 and cylinder 3 had about 15-20psi less than cylinder 1 and 4. My guess is that the head gasket in between those two cylinders may be fractured. The engine is an B18C1. And it burns oil during engine braking and VTEC engagement. I also have a CEL for EVAP. Which I highly doubt is related to my oil consumption or low compression readings. What are your guys' thoughts?
Thanks,
Just as the title of the post says, I did a compression test (cooled down a little bit after having it up to operation temperature) and found that the cylinder 2 and cylinder 3 had about 15-20psi less than cylinder 1 and 4. My guess is that the head gasket in between those two cylinders may be fractured. The engine is an B18C1. And it burns oil during engine braking and VTEC engagement. I also have a CEL for EVAP. Which I highly doubt is related to my oil consumption or low compression readings. What are your guys' thoughts?
Thanks,
Yeah, I also have ARP head studs and Supertech valve springs and retainers that I could install while I'm at it. I also, noticed that my oil darkens more quickly than the B18B1 I used to have in it. The engine has been this way every since I swapped it. So, it wasn't anything that happened recently, just finally did a compression test on it and figured I wouldn't post about the issue until I looked into it more.
I did not do a leak-down test. And yes, it's only from one test. When I looked inside of the two cylinders with lower compression, it looked a little wet on top of the piston. I had the distributor and the injectors unplugged during the compression test.
I agree.
15-20 psi difference could be to numerous factors such as how long you cranked, how good the seal was, how good your tester kit is. I wouldn't worry about it off 1 test.
I am not saying that your don't have a problem but I would want more information by running the test again(if you have a cheap test kit, take it to a shop, shouldn't cost a lot.), also doing a wet test and a leak down. Then check your numbers again. Otherwise too many variables.
15-20 psi difference could be to numerous factors such as how long you cranked, how good the seal was, how good your tester kit is. I wouldn't worry about it off 1 test.
I am not saying that your don't have a problem but I would want more information by running the test again(if you have a cheap test kit, take it to a shop, shouldn't cost a lot.), also doing a wet test and a leak down. Then check your numbers again. Otherwise too many variables.
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I agree.
15-20 psi difference could be to numerous factors such as how long you cranked, how good the seal was, how good your tester kit is. I wouldn't worry about it off 1 test.
I am not saying that your don't have a problem but I would want more information by running the test again(if you have a cheap test kit, take it to a shop, shouldn't cost a lot.), also doing a wet test and a leak down. Then check your numbers again. Otherwise too many variables.
15-20 psi difference could be to numerous factors such as how long you cranked, how good the seal was, how good your tester kit is. I wouldn't worry about it off 1 test.
I am not saying that your don't have a problem but I would want more information by running the test again(if you have a cheap test kit, take it to a shop, shouldn't cost a lot.), also doing a wet test and a leak down. Then check your numbers again. Otherwise too many variables.
I recently had a B20 that had low compression, similar to what you're describing, on two cylinders which was just caused by leaking VC grommets leaking oil onto the tops of the piston and plug.
Hm, I replaced the VTEC solenoid gasket, cam cap plug and valve cover hardware when I did the swap. I torqued everything down to spec, as well. I believe it was 7in-lbs for the valve cover acorn nuts. Maybe I'll re-torque these when I do a leak-down test.
Just replace the VC gasket and grommets, the full gasket kit is like $20->$25 from an auto store. Check them now and see if there's oil buildup.
I meant to add that I also replaced the valve cover gasket and spark plug rings when I did the hardware. All of it is new, intake manifold gasket, throttle body gasket, etc. But I'll still take off the valve cover when I do a leak-down test to inspect the valve cover gasket and everything.
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