What are some good mods for a 1998 F3?
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From: Destroying turbo ITR motors in Minneapolis, MN, U.S.A.
I'm picking up a 98 F3 that's bone stock with 9,000 miles for 4k and I'm wondering what kind of pipe should I get for it? Should I get a K&N filter? What about a jet kit? The Power Commander system? Let me know, thanks.
Pipes: Jardine, Micron, and Erion Racing are my favorites, on Honda streetbikes. The Micron carbon slipon on my VFR has a nice bass note while not being obnoxious at normal riding speeds.
Jet kits/filters: K&N filters are overrated and expensive...get a UNI filter if you don't feel like going OEM. Jet kits are a good idea if you put on an exhaust. Sorry, with a carbureted bike you're not going to be able to install a Power Commander (it's for EFI bikes only)...but jet kits are cheaper anyhow.
Jet kits/filters: K&N filters are overrated and expensive...get a UNI filter if you don't feel like going OEM. Jet kits are a good idea if you put on an exhaust. Sorry, with a carbureted bike you're not going to be able to install a Power Commander (it's for EFI bikes only)...but jet kits are cheaper anyhow.
power commander for a carb'd bike? Try learning to ride it first
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From: Destroying turbo ITR motors in Minneapolis, MN, U.S.A.
hey hey, no need to flame. I don't know much about bikes I was just asking. My buddy's 01 gixxer 750 has a power commander on it, but I forgot that it's fuel-injected. JEEZ
Bunch of angry *** bitches..
Bunch of angry *** bitches..
Well I wasn't really trying to flame you... just try to share a little knowledge and let you know that unlike cars, the rider makes a much larger difference in overall performance than the machine. I recommend jetting after full exhaust changes, slipons on I4s generally don't change flow characteristics enough to justify rejetting. Course if you must bolt on **** by all means. Factory style filters/intake tracts are very good at flowing and resonance containment. Especially the newer front ram designs. If you must go ahead and "cold air" the sucker but don't expect much. Tires are my #1 upgrade. For acceleration I suggest new sprockets and chain. Either 1 down up front or 2-3 up in the back. In case you don't know it changes your overall gear ratio, faster acceleration/rev climb... slower top speed (if rev limited) usually that change is about 5mph top end loss. Very negligable in my opinion. Similar to a close ratio tranny swap on a car. Curious, do you have previous riding experience?
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The f3 is about the top end of beginner bikes riders generally recommend. Something you can stay with for a long time while being rather cheap to repair compared to newer/more expensive bikes. Best of luck
HRC cdi
complete exhaust brand of your choice... hrc cams... jet kit etc.
Dont waste your money on a k&n, you will loose power on a honda......
just ask erion racing.....
Most of the hrc parts can be found at two bros...... http://www.twobros.com
Most of these go fast parts will do you no good if you dont have your suspension tuned, and i would invest some of your "modding" money into safety gear in case you have a spill.
good luck dood.
complete exhaust brand of your choice... hrc cams... jet kit etc.Dont waste your money on a k&n, you will loose power on a honda......
just ask erion racing.....
Most of the hrc parts can be found at two bros...... http://www.twobros.com
Most of these go fast parts will do you no good if you dont have your suspension tuned, and i would invest some of your "modding" money into safety gear in case you have a spill.
good luck dood.
It doesnt decrease the flow, it flows in more air but actually looses horsepower and lets more contaminants into the engine.
Just stating what i know. I have one on my f3, but wish i would have stuck with a stocker......
Just stating what i know. I have one on my f3, but wish i would have stuck with a stocker......
Great minds think alike
FYI on fireblades.org in the groupbuy section they are having a great deal on honda 1 piece leather suits for like 375 or something like that. The suits are red/black.
That's cheap i just spent 700 on a spidi hook suit, 350 on a shoei duhamel replica, 350 on sidi race vertebra boots, and 160 on alpinestar boots. trust me that 1700 will be worth it in the long run.
Steven
Like i said earlier......
[Modified by cbrman, 5:58 AM 11/27/2002]
FYI on fireblades.org in the groupbuy section they are having a great deal on honda 1 piece leather suits for like 375 or something like that. The suits are red/black. That's cheap i just spent 700 on a spidi hook suit, 350 on a shoei duhamel replica, 350 on sidi race vertebra boots, and 160 on alpinestar boots. trust me that 1700 will be worth it in the long run.
Steven
Like i said earlier......
Most of these go fast parts will do you no good if you dont have your suspension tuned, and i would invest some of your "modding" money into safety gear in case you have a spill.
good luck dood.
good luck dood.
[Modified by cbrman, 5:58 AM 11/27/2002]
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From: Destroying turbo ITR motors in Minneapolis, MN, U.S.A.
you buy honda everything don't you? Let me guess, you have that insanely expensive honda lawn mower too?
I think you guys have the wrong idea. I'm getting gear FIRST, I'm just wondering what some good basic mods for a F3 are AFTER I get used to riding it. That's all.
Then see my first post....
Here is some of my personal experience:
Trunk kit by md wright =
Taillocker =
(mine kept breaking and i would have to plastic weld it back together. Crappy product)
K&n airfilter = lose hp/tq + you let more crap get into your engine.
Hrc cdi =
dyna 2000 ignition =
(tach wont work right)
complete exhaust system =
port/polish head 5 angle valve job =
hrc cams = more top end hp, slight loss in tq in midrange
"factory" jetkit =
(factory is a company that makes aftermarket parts for bikes)
If you do an exhaust and jetkit do yourself a favor and take the bike to a shop that has a dyno to tune the carbs properly.
factory ignition advancer
factory pro shift kit (The 90 dollar one with the stiffer shift detent arm and roller)=
HRC clutch springs =
Barnett clutches =
(too stiff, stick with stock ones.)
Listed above is my experience with the f3.... Like i said it doesnt matter how much power you have if you spin the tire. Look into an aftermarket rear shock like a fox, ohlins, penske etc. Also look into having the front suspension done as well.
Oh yeah invest in a set of frame and bar sliders.....
And this is based on my personal experience and opinion
Steven
Here is some of my personal experience:
Trunk kit by md wright =
Taillocker =
(mine kept breaking and i would have to plastic weld it back together. Crappy product)K&n airfilter = lose hp/tq + you let more crap get into your engine.
Hrc cdi =
dyna 2000 ignition =
(tach wont work right)complete exhaust system =
port/polish head 5 angle valve job =
hrc cams = more top end hp, slight loss in tq in midrange
"factory" jetkit =
(factory is a company that makes aftermarket parts for bikes) If you do an exhaust and jetkit do yourself a favor and take the bike to a shop that has a dyno to tune the carbs properly.
factory ignition advancer
factory pro shift kit (The 90 dollar one with the stiffer shift detent arm and roller)=
HRC clutch springs =
Barnett clutches =
(too stiff, stick with stock ones.)Listed above is my experience with the f3.... Like i said it doesnt matter how much power you have if you spin the tire. Look into an aftermarket rear shock like a fox, ohlins, penske etc. Also look into having the front suspension done as well.
Oh yeah invest in a set of frame and bar sliders.....
And this is based on my personal experience and opinion
Steven
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