Hi I am having some problem with my gauge cluster for a week now. tach, odo, temp and fuel are not working. I have replaced the fuses under dash #10 7.5amp and under the hood #9 10amp. It worked for a couple of days but today the clusters are not working again. any suggestions that i need to do? dont know much about electrical stuff in cars. thanks

 

Have you checked the fuses again, and any wiring you can get your hands on related to the cluster? Sounds like you have a short somewhere, or a bad ground.

 

 

I recomend whipping out a good multimeter and checking your engine bay grounds first. From the battery to the frame specifically. From there, find out which plug supplies power and ground to the cluster and check impedance/voltage. Make sure your fuses are still ok. I do recommend removing the cluster so you can test from the harness at the gauges.

 

I did find this on 2carpros.com...



Here are some diagnostics that you can carry out to see if you can get any info.

SELF - DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION

" The gauge assembly has a self -diagnosis function.
" The beeper drive circuit check
" The indicator drive circuit check
" The LCD segments check
" The gauges drive circuit check (Speedometer, Tachometer, Fuel gauge, Coolant temperature gauge)
" The communication line check (the coolant temperature signal line between the gauge and ECM/PCM)

ENTERING THE SELF - DIAGNOSIS FUNCTION
Before doing the self -diagnosis function, check the No. 9 (10A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box and No. 10 (7.5A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.

1. Push and hold the trip/reset button.
2 . Turn the lighting switch ON.
3 . Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
4 . Within 5 sec, turn the lighting switch OFF, then ON and OFF again.
5 . Within 5 sec, release the trip/reset button, then push and release the button four times repeatedly.






NOTE:

" While in the self-diagnosis mode, the dash lights brightness controller operates normally.
" While in the self-diagnosis mode, the trip/reset button is used to start the beeper drive circuit check and the gauge drive circuit check.
" If the vehicle speed exceeds 1.2 mph (2 km/h) or the ignition switch is turned OFF, the self-diagnosis mode ends.

THE BEEPER DRIVE CIRCUIT CHECK
When entering the self -diagnosis mode, the beeper sounds five times.

THE INDICATOR DRIVE CIRCUIT CHECK
When entering the self -diagnosis mode, the following indicators blink. Seat belt indicator, Door/trunk indicator, Brake system light, Low fuel indicator, Maintenance required indicator (USA), Washer fluid level indicator light (Canada), Oil pressure light and, A/T gear position indicator (except P, R, N).

THE LCD SEGMENT CHECK
When entering the self -diagnosis mode, the odo/trip segment blinks five times.

THE GAUGE DRIVE CIRCUIT CHECK
When entering the self -diagnosis mode, the speedometer and the tachometer, the fuel gauge, and the coolant temperature gauge needles sweep from the minimum position to maximum position, then return to the minimum position.

NOTE: After the beeper stops sounding and the gauge needles return to the minimum position, pushing the trip/reset button starts the beeper
drive circuit check (one beep), and the gauge drive circuit check again. The check cannot be started until the needles return to the minimum position. If the gauge needles fail to sweep, replace the gauge assembly.






THE COMMUNICATION LINE CHECK
In the self -diagnosis mode, after the odo/trip LCD segments check, the self -diagnosis starts the communication line check.

If all segments come on, the communication line is OK.

If the word "Error" is indicated, there is a malfunction in the communication line between the gauge assembly, the multiplex control unit, and the ECM/PCM.






ENDING THE SELF - DIAGNOSIS FUNCTION
Turn the ignition switch OFF.

NOTE: If the vehicle speed exceeds 1.2 mph (2 km/h), the self-diagnosis function ends.

If any of the checks do not function as specified, replace the gauge assembly.

 

Hey there, new here looking for help desperately! I’m having a really hard time figuring out my problem, it’s an 03 civic ex A/T.

I had a dead battery, so i got a new one, cleaned all grounds in engine bay before installing it. Started up fine, let it warm up and noticed my temp gauge wasn’t registering. So I replaced my thermostat with a new Honda part, refilled/bled air from coolant. Still no temp, replaced ECT, and thermo fan switch re bled it, still no temp.

I had voltage at the ECT connector, and ground. Did a bunch of continuity probing from ECT to ECM, ECM to cluster vice versa. I was having trouble because I couldn’t find the grn/yel and red/whit wires from ECT at the cluster connector/terminals. So then I ran the diagnostic test on the cluster.

The first diagnostic came back ok and everything worked, but forgot the drive circuit check/ comm line check. I then did it again, and all gauges worked fine but during the drive circuit check I got an ERROR.

I have no D,D2, or D3 drive indicator lights as well. Also I was continuity testing between the ECM and cluster, on what I believe was the comm line wht/grn at the cluster connector, and wht/grn at ECM connector A, terminal 18 for the VSS. I was going off of an ECM pin out I found on this site. I couldn’t find/don’t have a pin out for cluster terminals. But I was getting a strange tone when probing this. Was a loud constant beep, but sounded different than the normal tone for continuity. I don’t know what this means.

From what I understand the VSS is at the end of my drive circuit. Is this the potential cause for no drive indicators/ drive circuit error? And would that in turn effect my ECM from relaying temp data to the cluster? If anyone can give me any direction on this I’d appreciate greatly, I only partially know what I’m doing! Sorry for the long post, thanks in advance!

 

My 2004 Civic EX instrument cluster started flashing, speedometer, tach, cold, fuel needles going haywire while driving home. Got the car home. Replaced the old battery but then I had no lights on gauge cluster, and all the needles and displays including odometer were dead ... Checked all the fuses to no avail. Guess what fixed it? I disconnected the negative terminal on the new battery for a 1/2 hour. When I reconnected it, everything worked as expected!!! I was about to order a new dashboard, a new ECU, a new this and that...of this ever happens to you, start with this! Save yourself trouble, anxiety and overthinking it....the 30 minute thing I read as an obscure comment somewhere mixed in with the difficult and technical reasons so many experts weighed on on.....just saying...