a lot of times camber won't be the main cause of that
rotate your tires every oil change
get an alignment even if your car doesn't pull to one side, a little bit can be a lot
flip the tires every year and they will last a lot longer, with or without the camber kits
you can fix the camber in the back for like $15.00
i'm not saying don't buy the front camber kits but doing these things will help too


[Modified by JoshDM, 10:04 PM 11/12/2002]

 

nice tires i have some of those.... avs intermediates right??

 

LOL... You think thats bad... you should see my massive collection of blown sidewalls and exposed steel thread... lol

 

how can you correct the back camber for $15? i have the ingals front camber kit on my rex...i would like to know how to fix the back, other than buying the kit? thanks

 

You can fix the rear camber for like $1.. Go to the hardware store and buy about 8 washers... the ones with a 1/2'' hole in the middle and like 1.5'' diameter.. Put those under the flat bar above your rear trailing arm the one that goes to the brake thing.. you will see what i mean if you remove your tire.. 2 spacers on one side will do a noticible amount.. I use 2 on each side for my eibach prokit springs. Sorry its confusing i dont know how to word it out.

 

Longer bolts and a few washers will do the trick. Hit the search button for more info on that.

 

hell for the rear you should be able to go into your garage and find the washers... i cant belive progress actually sells their rear camber kit wich consists of 4 new bolts and like 12washers, easy money for them dumb buyer... my friend fell for it haha

 

haah

 

so i need acouple washers and some longer bolts huh? sweet, thanks for the tip

 

http://jdmfan.com/technical/suspension/rear_camber/


I believe the stock bolts are Grade 8 or better, and you should replace them with the same. This guy used just some cheap *** steel bolts.


[Modified by Hatchblack, 5:16 PM 11/24/2002]

 

Definitely need to use Grade 8 or better, bolts and washers!! Anything else won't last long at all..


[Modified by guttedEF, 9:49 AM 11/24/2002]

 

L L

 

I'm a little slow (n new) where do I put the spacers, washers....whatever?!?! Also I'm guessing this wont work for the front and if so what kit should I use to correct it? My front tires do tuck in a tad bit. If that helps

 

the link on hatchblack's post show's exactly how, with pics and everything.

for the front you need a good kit, no cheap fix there.


[Modified by thumpu77, 11:20 AM 11/24/2002]

 

Ahh, camber, I know it well. Had a tire go on me, got the camber checked, -2.5 front, 2.0 back. Camber kits are great.

 

It is not the camber that causes the quick tire wear on the inside. It is the toe. I have -3.2 degrees camber in the front and -1.8 degrees in the rear, and the toe is correctly set, and I have about 8,000 miles on a set of tires I bought brand new after getting the toe set, and they show absolutely no signs of camber wear. When you lower the car, its the toe that causes all the damage. When I went for the alignment, the toe was about 1/2" out in the front, and about 1/4" out in the rear, after lowering my car about 2". Now the toe is 1/16" out in the front, and 0 in the rear, but the camber is still really extreme, and the tires are wearing evenly. Also, the car handles corners fabulously, because of the high negative camber.

 

Toe can be the biggest problem when it comes to inside tire wear.

I run -1.4 front, and -0.8 camber on my rex, with +1.0 front toe, and -0.2 rear.

My previous front toyos, had a wear line right down the inside to steel belts while the rears, which had been e-brake slid all the time on dry pavement, had yet to show signs of wear.

Just something to think about.

 

i agree with the last 2 replies...check that toe setting.

 

Daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaam, Smokey!!??

 

i'm gonna have to disagree on this one. it is the camber that causes the tire wear on the inside off. If your toe is off it will cause wear across the width of the tire.

 

It looks like the culprit was originally caused by someone hand cutting their springs to lower their car. I could be wrong but I have seen it before. SCAAAAAAARRRRRRY!!!!!! Oh, Good luck YIKES!

 

If the camber were at 0 or close to it, you would be correct, but since the camber always goes negative when lowering a Honda, the toe will cause the inside shoulder of the tire to wear more quickly than the outside.

As I said above, with the toe correctly set, the wear rate of the inside of the tire will be alot closer to the rate on the outside shoulder. I'm not saying that you will get "NO" camber wear, but the rate, and inside/outside differential will be alot lower than if you did not correct the toe.

 

you are correct on the toe. i too have found this to be the problem.. well. i have no problems with tire wear with -2.8front and -1.5 in the back for camber.

 

I hope we can all agree that it is worse for the wear to have you camber and tow out than just your tow. with both out it will wear the fastest.