I'm currently in the process of rebuilding the motor in my 95 EX. I have the rebuild kit at home, and the block and head are being sent off today to be cut. I've read varying responses, but what octane is right for my car? The oem service manual states 91 or higher for the f22b1, but it's not a very high compression motor. I swear I hear light pinging when I run regular, but no one else does and I haven't tried premium or mixed.
Thank you!

 

Also, the AT is sitting and waiting. It's covered in grease, so should I clean it, drain it, and fill it up? I haven't found someone who can rebuild in my budget and money is tight.

 

are you going to have the valves cleaned while the head is off ? just use whatever it says to use, i would use the 91 like it says

 

Ricker is going to clean and surface the head, cut the block 1mm over, fit rods to new pistons, and seat the valves as far as I know. I guess I'll just fill it with 93 and see how it acts. As for the trans, whats my best option? I planned on manual swapping once it's dead, but I don't know where any rebuilders are in case I keep the AT.

 

why are you planning on using 93 ? if it's pinging it's only pinging cause it has deposits, when you clean the valves it will get rid of the pinging

 

1994 Honda Accord Service Manual states for the F22B/B2 engines; "UNLEADED gasoline with a Reasearch Octane Number(RON) of 91 or higher.

RON is not = to Octane.
In the US Octane ratings are usually some combination of 87-89-91-93 Octane. If you look at the sticker on the pumps where the Octane rating is given it will have "(RON+MON/2)
In Europe RON ratings are 91-93-95-98. These are ≈ to the Octane ratings.

In the US, B1/B2 engines use 'regular' 87 Octane ≈ 91 RON.

If the AT is sitting, make sure to drain it, I've found leaving it in Neutral seems to help drain down the case. Drain the sump, put the bolt back in and then leave it in Neutral, you need it in Neutral anyway to bolt the shifter cable back on. If the trans is dirty externally spray it with 1:1 Simple Green/490(green cleaners) to water, let it sit, then rinse it off with the hose. On re-installation, pull the drain plug again and another quart or more will come out. There will be a quart in the TC which you will not be able to get out, you can expect to get a gallon of AT out of the trans this way. Only refill it after everything is reinstalled, part of the sump is the differential. Without the axles installed the trans will leak out the differential. Unless the trans is slipping I would not worry about rebuilding it. Most of these trans will just stop functioning from the sump becoming clogged. Tyler Dirden (member) did the work to find where the filter is located on the case for easier cleaning of the sump screen.