2000 crv overheats but cools extremely fast...help please
I have a 2000 CR-V that has been sitting for 2 years. New head gaskets, water pump, and radiator hoses. It will over heat after about 2 or 3 miles driving at 55-60mph or any speed. Purged air from system and even removed thermostat, thinking that was the issue. When the temp gauge climbs to the hot position I can stop the car, shut off the engine for roughly 30 seconds, and immediately start up the engine and it drops back to operating temperature. I'm not a mechanic by any definition....and I'm lost as far as finding the remedy. Any advice or assistance will be greatly appreciated. Thank you and God bless!
Just a few questions:-
1/ Did you use a genuine Honda head gasket.
2/ Can you see the coolant pumping round with the radiator cap is removed and blipping the accelerator.
3/ Did you use just water in the cooling system.
4/ Are you able to check and confirm the actual coolant temperature, by using a heat gun or thermocouple temperature reader – NOT by dashboard gauge.
5/ Have you flushed the block and radiator.
1/ Did you use a genuine Honda head gasket.
2/ Can you see the coolant pumping round with the radiator cap is removed and blipping the accelerator.
3/ Did you use just water in the cooling system.
4/ Are you able to check and confirm the actual coolant temperature, by using a heat gun or thermocouple temperature reader – NOT by dashboard gauge.
5/ Have you flushed the block and radiator.
The crv belongs to a friend and her father replaced the head gasket and claims it is from Honda, but I wasn't part of the work so I cannot verify that it's oem head gasket. The coolant is a dexcool type, and it is circulating past the fill cap. She lost about half of the dexcool when it over heated, so I only had water available to top it off. I burped a bit of air out of the system, but it still does the same thing...just not as often. I do not own a temp gun of any type, and due to finances I cannot afford one. I know that the water pump is new, but I don't know if it is oem or not. I apologise for my vague answers, I'm not mechanically inclined in the slightest bit. The only thing that I can verify is that the coolant is Prestone Dexcool, I was present when she filled it. I hope any of this can help, I just don't have any thing else to add...sorry. thank you so much for your response.
From what you have advised it sounds like you have an air lock in the coolant system. I suggest you run the engine with the internal heater vents on full, plus remove the radiator cap and let the engine run (suggest about ¼ throttle) to get the engine warm and circulate the coolant. Coolant should keep surging out because of the air lock.
You will also need a hose pipe to keep filling up the system until all the air is bled out of the system.
Note you need to refit the thermostat unit before doing the above because of the internal bypass system.
Note: you can check the operation of the thermostat by putting it into a pan of boiling water and noting that the bellows are opening up.
Regarding the coolant venting while the engine is HOT it may take a few refills before all the air is expelled from the coolant system. When you are completely sure you have expelled all the air, refit the radiator cap and allow the engine to reach operating temperature again – Please note and ensure that the electric fans are operating a few times before road testing.
Finally you will have to drain some coolant from the radiator drain tap and refill fill with your system with inhibitor / antifreeze again.
Let us know how you get on.
You will also need a hose pipe to keep filling up the system until all the air is bled out of the system.
Note you need to refit the thermostat unit before doing the above because of the internal bypass system.
Note: you can check the operation of the thermostat by putting it into a pan of boiling water and noting that the bellows are opening up.
Regarding the coolant venting while the engine is HOT it may take a few refills before all the air is expelled from the coolant system. When you are completely sure you have expelled all the air, refit the radiator cap and allow the engine to reach operating temperature again – Please note and ensure that the electric fans are operating a few times before road testing.
Finally you will have to drain some coolant from the radiator drain tap and refill fill with your system with inhibitor / antifreeze again.
Let us know how you get on.
I have done as you suggested and the overheating problem is fixed, thank you so very much for your assistance. Yes you were correct, there was air trapped in the system. If I ever have this problem again, then I know what I need to do in order to repair it. Thank you again and God bless you and yours!
Regards, Donmiller50
Regards, Donmiller50
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