Hello experts,

This is my first post. I have an issue with my 2002 Honda CR-V, 240000 km. Here it goes:

I drove the CRV on a weekend previously and did not drive it for 5 days (throughout the weekdays). Yesterday, the CRV did not start. No crank, no turning the engine. When I turn ignition, there is a single loud click, occurs instantaneously, and then nothing happens. The battery light and the engine oil light stays on (check engine light goes away if I wait 20 seconds after turning the ACC on.

Additional information: The battery is fully charged. It is a stick shift. If I depress the clutch, while the ignition is on, the clicks again, and if I press the clutch again, it would click again. I'd assume that the switch on the clutch is functioning. I hear the fuel pump noise when I turn on the ACC (first notch on the key, before ignition), and as there is no crank/engine turning, I'd rule out the fuel pump/spark plug issues.

There has been no signs of bad starter, the CRV would turn every time without hesitation. The car was running smooth the last time I parked it.

I'm hoping for some guidance to fix my CRV.

Thank you.

Tanzim.
Edmonton, Alberta

 

Did you use a multimeter to check the voltage of the battery?

If yes- what was the voltage no load?

And what is the voltage with all the lights, heater etc. on?

 

Thanks for your response.

The battery is fine. It is fully charged with 11.80 V, when the head lamps and everything else are on.

I noticed that the click is quite loud and it comes from the bottom of the engine front. I am guessing that it is the starter motor solenoid click. I do not have enough understanding to figure out if this is enough evidence to indicated that the started is bad, or could there be some other issues, such as relay or ignition switch. Just because the starter never showed any symptoms/intermittent issues.

Thank you in advance.

Tanzim

 

A reading of 11.8 or lower, means your battery is about 25% or less charged – Hence due to the cold cranking issues in your region I would suggest you check your battery again.

FYI >>> A reading of 12.65-12.77 volts means your battery has a full charge. 12.45-12.54 volts means you have a 75% charge, 12.24-12.29 is 50% charged, and 11.99-12.06 volts is 25% charged. 11.75-11.89 volts means your battery is dead.

 

^^ .. How long have you had the Vehicle? Explain FULLY what it's doing! Some people say "won't start" when they mean it won't do anything. Whereas to me won't start means, dash/lights/'horn are energized but the starter IS cranking over the motor, but it's NOT starting/popping etc..
When you sit in the car to start, (all quiet, no radio) turn the key to run. can you hear the fuel pump "cycle"? (a werring/humming for a couple seconds) IF NOT, you have a main fuse/lead issue.
b
Are the battery terminals a corroded up and nasty? if they are, and it looks like they've been that way for a while, CHANGE them! The windings of the cable inherently suck up moisture/corrosion back under the plastic covering causing resistance to the flow of current. BAD THING. And if the cables have enough length to just cut back a couple inches then you can do that. But soak them with some kind of preventative lube. PB blaster or something that doesn't evaporate so quickly.
Check your grounds!! At the thermostat, fender and front radiator support. Make sure they ALL have a good shiny metal to metal contact. And a little dab of Die-Electric grease in between goes a long way.
I'd borrow a charger and leave it on over night to get a good deep charge on it.
THEN, once running, have your alternator checked by a COMPETENT shop to see if it's keeping the battery up on full charge.
Think of your battery as a bucket and the alternator as a faucet. The battery is there mostly just to crank over the motor to get it running. THEN, the alternator takes over to keep the electrical needs of that vehicle met. If the faucet doesn't keep the bucket filled, it drains down the bucket, putting more strain on the plates in each cell (usually 6 for a 12v) Also, if any plates in any particular cell touches eachother, that cell is dead.
So, if the alternator is at fault it may be REAL hot to the touch (regulator running wide open, NOT regulating the voltage) But that's after its' running for a bit. Which can evaporate the water in the battery just leaving the acid. You can even add some Distilled water or Electrolyte (from a motorcycle shop) to get them back up to safe level but not over filled. (ya don't want it leaking all over eating up everything.)

Well, I'm rambling, sorry.
E