96 Honda Accord. Blower motor problems and weird electrical problems
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96 Honda Accord. Blower motor problems and weird electrical problems
I have been having some werid electrical problems with my Accord. So, it all started a couple weeks ago after a cold and snowy week. First my running lights were staying on after the car was off so I was having to disconnect the battery when it was parked. Then my left turn signal would stay on all the time and when I tryed to flash to switch lanes it wouldn’t blink but when I would signal to right the right would blink while the left just stayed on. So I pulled the flasher relay to see if it my bad and checked all the fuses and all was good. I put the flasher relay back in and all of it stoped acting werid. Then driving home one day my heat went out and so did my rear defrost but here is what is funny when I signaled the left turn signal my heat would come on and off with the blinker. It only works with the left side one and not the right. I just replaced the A/C control switch relay by the radatior and I have checked all the fuses and I am at a loss on this so if there is anyone with help or experience I would much appericate it.
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Re: 96 Honda Accord. Blower motor problems and weird electrical problems
MM Gruppe B
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From: 94577/Gaillimh
Re: 96 Honda Accord. Blower motor problems and weird electrical problems
How did you check the fuses? Did you verify they worked electrically or just visual?
Use a meter and check the back side of the fuses when the desired circuits are on. The voltage across both terminals should be the same voltage, a difference shows a falt with the fuse. Thermal failed fuses will look and show good when off but will actually be open when power is drawn across them.
Underdash #1 is most likely fine, usually when this blows the interlock(AT cars) and dash are dead.
Underdash #8(7.5A) is shared for controls of the heater blower, rear defrost and lights. So that may be a potential bad but looks good fuse.
Are you a kickpanel kicker?
Check for ground 403 behind the drivers kickpanel for looseness.
If you've nailed a snow bank/drift with the front of the car, you may have got snow on the front grounds G201 and G301. You can see these by loosening the front of the under fender covers under the bumper.
Use a meter and check the back side of the fuses when the desired circuits are on. The voltage across both terminals should be the same voltage, a difference shows a falt with the fuse. Thermal failed fuses will look and show good when off but will actually be open when power is drawn across them.
Underdash #1 is most likely fine, usually when this blows the interlock(AT cars) and dash are dead.
Underdash #8(7.5A) is shared for controls of the heater blower, rear defrost and lights. So that may be a potential bad but looks good fuse.
Are you a kickpanel kicker?
Check for ground 403 behind the drivers kickpanel for looseness.
If you've nailed a snow bank/drift with the front of the car, you may have got snow on the front grounds G201 and G301. You can see these by loosening the front of the under fender covers under the bumper.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 3
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Re: 96 Honda Accord. Blower motor problems and weird electrical problems
How did you check the fuses? Did you verify they worked electrically or just visual?
Use a meter and check the back side of the fuses when the desired circuits are on. The voltage across both terminals should be the same voltage, a difference shows a falt with the fuse. Thermal failed fuses will look and show good when off but will actually be open when power is drawn across them.
Underdash #1 is most likely fine, usually when this blows the interlock(AT cars) and dash are dead.
Underdash #8(7.5A) is shared for controls of the heater blower, rear defrost and lights. So that may be a potential bad but looks good fuse.
Are you a kickpanel kicker?
Check for ground 403 behind the drivers kickpanel for looseness.
If you've nailed a snow bank/drift with the front of the car, you may have got snow on the front grounds G201 and G301. You can see these by loosening the front of the under fender covers under the bumper.
Use a meter and check the back side of the fuses when the desired circuits are on. The voltage across both terminals should be the same voltage, a difference shows a falt with the fuse. Thermal failed fuses will look and show good when off but will actually be open when power is drawn across them.
Underdash #1 is most likely fine, usually when this blows the interlock(AT cars) and dash are dead.
Underdash #8(7.5A) is shared for controls of the heater blower, rear defrost and lights. So that may be a potential bad but looks good fuse.
Are you a kickpanel kicker?
Check for ground 403 behind the drivers kickpanel for looseness.
If you've nailed a snow bank/drift with the front of the car, you may have got snow on the front grounds G201 and G301. You can see these by loosening the front of the under fender covers under the bumper.
Thank you for replying Mike. I did check the fuses by just pulling them out to see if they were blown. I will use a meter to check the fuses. But with the ground inside the car and the two outside you talk about is there any pictures or guide on how and where exactly they may be so I don’t mess anything else up.
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JonnyHero
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Mar 15, 2014 08:02 AM