Hello everyone im in the process of rebuilding a 2003 civic ex coupe (why i dont know) and ive run into a problem. I like handling so I started with the front suspension first. Ive got Tein Coilovers all around, moog tie rods, ball joints and front sway bar links, prothane front control arm bushings, stock swaybar (havent decided which size and brand i want). The front has a gap of 2 fingers, tires are 195/60/15, the rear is still stock with a gap of 3 fingers. I plan to drop it more to level out the vehicle, parts i plan to get, FF7 lcas, rear camber kit, moog end links, prothane or energy suspension bushings, hardrace harden rubber bushings, upgrade rear swaybar. In the process of studying i ran into a issue, if I have coilvers im suppose to run ajustable end links in the rear, found 2 post here and 1 on some BMW forum, no word on the front though. So since its my DD and no plans to Auto X the bad boy do i need them or can I run the stock links without worrying on destroying them? Thanks for your time.

 

Adjustable endlinks in the rear? Endlinks for what? The anti-sway bar? If so, no they're not necessary with Tein coilovers. Also, why are you buying both a poly bushing set, as well as a hard rubber bushing set? You can only run one at a time.

 

Well for my accord there is no poly trailing arm bushing or shock bushing so i have to use rubber bushings. Now I should of read more to know that the trailing arm in the civic is not the same, the prothane kit has it. As for the end links thety say its needed to coner balance the vehicle heres some links
https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w204/432330-reason-use-adjustable-sway-bar-end-links.html
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/adjustable-end-links-vs-non-ajustable-3140861/
https://honda-tech.com/forums/road-racing-autocross-time-attack-19/corner-balancing-not-required-463613/
So thats were im at, personally i would run the moog endlinks but i dont want to destroy them, so im all ears, i like your responses toyomatt.

 

From my experiences, unless you plan on ONLY tracking the car, running heim joints for anti-sway endlinks is completely overkill. They just don't last for every-day usage. You'll be replacing them every few months, if you have harsh roads out by you. The only way you'd be corner balancing using an anti-sway endlink, is if you'd put some pre-load on the anti-sway. This is not something I would do using a factory or any non-adjustable anti-sway. I read through their FS listing on MBWorld, and I don't think they realize that you corner balance a car without the anti-sways under load to avoid giving false numbers when actually balancing the car. This means you typically unbolt the anti-sways for the corner balancing project. (Here's a good article on the process of corner balancing: https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/ar...orner-weights/ )

As for bushing materials, I hate polyurethane. Its noisy, it can deform under certain situations, and it can create some terrible ride qualities. I'll take a well-made hard rubber bushing any day, over a polyurethane option. Hard Race makes DC5 bushing sets, which will work for the EM2. I had Mugen's DC5 hard rubber bushing set for years, and never had an issue (on or off the track). They're a bit pricey, but I didn't have any alternatives back when I bought them.

 

So they are overkill, i thought so, I saw some whiteline adj links for sale and started my investigating, i guess ill order the moogs then. Polys are ok, my accords been polyd out for over a year now and no deforms or squeaks, reason i like polys is that in the event of a failure there easy to replace, the trailing arm and shock bushings were a nightmare of removing, replaced them with hardrace buhings cause no kit for them plus didnt want to go in there again. Curious what sway bars you have, was thinking of getting the progress set.

 

Before the last teardown, I had a Tanabe 29mm front anti-sway and ASR 32mm hollow, fully clockable 32mm rear anti-sway.