Hey guys, I'm at the point in my build where I'm looking at radiators. I've read through some threads on here and seems like the go to brands are C&R (can't seem to find these in Honda/Acura application anymore), CSF, Fluidyne, Koyo, PWR and Mishimoto. Most of these threads are dated and I'm seeing if there are bigger/better radiators out there now and looking for peoples reviews on some of these brands now that they have been running them a couple of years.

Chassis is a 99' hatchback. Motor will be a B16a2 for about a year and then I will swap in my B18C. Used mainly for HPDE's, Auto-X, Spirited Sunday drives and the four hour round trip to said courses. Looking to do TT's in the future...

While I haven't had any overheating issues yet (stock gauge) with the EM1 radiator, I'm leaning toward an Integra fitment Full Size. Mainly because I have removed all the A/C components and it will save me from having to fab a block off plate for the hole where the A/C condenser was.

Price range is around $300, but, if quality can be had for cheaper I'm all for it...I still have gauges/baffles etc...to buy.

Currently leaning toward the Koyo.

Also,
Are all the Integra radiators the same or do I need to specify GSR/Type-R?
Has anyone used the ASR radiator lower bracket mount relocator? Work?

Thanks, Matthew

 

my honda challenge integra came with a mishimoto in it, never been a fan of them personally the car only got up to 200 degrees once all last season on a very hot and humid day. I ran a csf in a street s200 for two years, quality piece. Personally i'd spend a little more, but a few of us in my region have been racing on mishimoto without issue.

 

I'm in the same boat as Killerpenguin with Mishimoto. I am just skeptical of cheaper brands that started on ebay. The problem with a lot of cheap radiators is often lower fin density. So even if you are switching to a dual core it may actually be less efficient than the stock radiator. I can't speak for Mishmoto personally so I don't know. There are plenty of people out there running them.

If you are still running a half size civic radiator on track I would switch it out for a full size or larger dual pass one asap. You will quickly find it's limits at HPDEs.

I am running this Griffin dual pass with custom modified end tanks and a custom swirl pot mounted higher up. it's working great on a turbo b series along with a setrab oil cooler.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/GRI-2-58185-X

 

Sold info guys! Gonna do some research on CSF's. After a quick search, I found that the CSF, Koyo and Mishimoto radiators are all around $240 (redline360.com)

 

I use the dual core Integra rad made by Mishimoto.
B16A2 motor in my EG hatch
Not one issue.

 

There you go, get the Mishimoto CSF or Koyo and call it done.

 

I tried a cheap ebay dual core special. Would not do again.

the stock GSR rad poops all over it. Haven't had a problem with that yet bit the motor is also bone stock.

 

That seems to be the answer I keep coming up with. Any of these will probably be fine, as long as there is proper airflow through them. Which I'll be foaming or fabbing some plates to ensure this.

While I have everyone here.

How many are still using the radiator fan? seems to be about a 50/50 split in the threads I'm reading.

I'm keeping the heater core to be able to divert the coolant if needed and can probably get in the habit of cutting the heater on at stop lights and while in grid.

 

No heater core, and I have single mishimoto fan wired to a switch.
Done deal, even in triple digit track temps

 

i guess i should have added...im on a stock gsr motor, no oil cooler and zero hood venting. i have a spal fan from fan-man that is very high flow and i think maybe 7 or 8 inch? have it on a switch on my panel and run it for cool down after sessions.

 

I'm running a 14" spal puller with shroud and ducting. Runs off the stock fan switch. My car is driven to and from track events every once and a while so I like not having to remember to flip a switch. The fan never comes on while on track.

 

when does one need to upgrade to a bigger/better radiator? is it due to engine mods or driver mod?

 

And ambient temps. I never had issues until the temps got above 90, which seems to a be late-May to early-October in CA.

 

I've been using a Koyo full size in my EG with an ITR motor and in the socal summer heat (100+ degrees) the car was running at 180 degrees all day. I've also used Fluidyne in the past. I would recommend either of them for sure.

 

I ran a half size Koyo my first few track days and I could not run a full 20 minute session above 85 degrees. Your stock gauge won't show you any changes till the temp is already too hot for comfort.

 

^ A good temp gauge will show you if/when you need to upgrade radiators. I've run my 99' Si for about 6 HPDE events and numerous Auto-x's over the last 2 years on the stock radiator (175K miles) and the open hole where the A/C condenser was. The stock temp gauge never moved above normal, but, I'm sure if I had a proper gauge I would see that it's running hotter than needed.

The reason I'm upgrading, is because the more time and money I invest in this...the more I want to protect it. I picked up a 99' hatch and I'm switching over all the parts from the Si. I'm upgrading parts during this down time for longevity sake and I just don't think the stock radiator @175K is going to last much longer.

 

yeah i have mine wired into both, ecu has control, but i i can also power on by switch.

IMHO, its worth just doing. nothing would be worse than a radiator splitting open. most aftermarkets usually hold more water as well, if it was way more expensive sure wait...but the cost isnt really prohibitive so you might as well just do it,.

 

Well, I've narrowed it down to the Koyo and CSF, I may wait a few months until I order. It will be spring before I get my car together and it may be wise to have the radiator still within the return grace period in case of any manufacturing defect, etc...

I will post back which one I go with and post some pics...

 

Looking for gauge recommendations now.

I've read through threads and understand the necessary gauges to get for an N/A application are Oil Pressure, Oil Temperature and Water Temperature.
I've read that Mechanical gauges are more accurate (whether or not it's enough to matter, maybe not?) and respond quicker. Mechanical require an oil or coolant line to be attached directly to the gauge itself, thus putting these hot liquids in the cabin. (replacing the provided lines with a steel braided line will greatly lessen the chance of a line rupturing and blowing hot oil on your face) Some classes/organizations may not allow mechanical gauges.
Electrical gauges are wired in and easier to install, but, less accurate and the sender unit seem's to fail pretty often. Mechanical seems to be cheaper than electrical.

Really just looking on recommendations what you guys are using...Brand/Style, how you like them? if you had a chance to change setups, what and why? The top brands I see coming up through searches are Autometer, AEM, Defi, Stack and Spa.

I really don't have a preference of Mechanical or Electrical, I'm leaning toward electrical for ease of install.

I do have a few questions though...

Is anyone running a short sweep gauge set up? The price on these are about half the price of the full sweeps.

I'm thinking the Oil pressure gauge needs to be a full sweep, because, the quickness that a change can occur. (I see a lot use Mechanical gauges specifically for this one) but, with the Oil and Water temp a short sweep may do fine, because, the change is more gradual and less dramatic?

Again, just looking for the cheapest most reliable route. If a full sweep is overkill on water temp, I would like to save that extra $100.

 

Gauges for track, take blue painters tape and cover all of them.

Warning light for Oil pressure, oil temp and water temp. if crazy get a shift light.

 

Truth be told, at the track I barely look down at my gauge cluster unless I sense something is wrong.

 

Not really the answers I was looking for, though I do feel like I only need them for the initial setup. I'm upgrading to a full size radiator and adding a baffled oil pan, which I hope will solve/prevent any temp or pressure problems there. I was waiting to see some oil temps before setting up an oil cooler.

 

I regularly check mine when there's time on the straights. Nice opportunity to check gauges, relax your grip, check behind way behind you in the mirrors... I would love some warning lights though, that'd be much more helpful than gauges while on track.

 

i have a water pressure warning light...as a true warning its in no way sufficient.

best money spent imho is a gauge that is peak/warn (or at least has warning). Ive been using prosport for awhile as they are cheap and peak/warn. set oil temp gauge to start warning at 290 so i get a nice loud screeching beep and a blinking light to grab my attention and look, same with water temp. oil pressure i set 10ish psi above oil pressure that way you get a warning prior to having none.

 

I run a wideband and oil pressure in my car b20v n/a