So I bought my 1990 accord from my uncles friend for $150, and it ran okay for the first 15 minutes of taking it out of his yard. when i started going up a hill i live past the car started shaking and i tried to give it more gas but nothing helped the car started backfiring and the car overall died.( i tried to let the car cool down and restart it but it kept backfiring and the battery was decently charged,) so i had to tow it back to my house and once there i tried to diagnose the problem and after time people kept telling me to switch out my Distributor cause it was corroded when I took off the cap(so I believe it wasn't getting enough spark) so i replaced that now my car runs fine after installing a new Distributor the only thing now is the check engine light is on and the oil light is blinking i check the oil and it was full it still is and it run and drives fine until i have to slow down than the car drop in idle to the dead bottom and turns itself off, the good thing is the car still starts right back up after it kills itself but it happens almost every time i slow down and i'm not sure what to do i'm kind of on a budget so i cant just take it to a shop and have it fixed someone have any advice? Thank you.

Second Note, i should also mention that the exhaust is not coming out of my car properly and it leaking midway through my car and i wasn't sure if that could be the reason for the check engine light.(emissions not coming out / getting blocked up)

Third Note, When i push the gas too hard my engine will start to cut out and backfire (I haven't tried to give it too much gas after the first time it broke down cause i'm scared it will backfire and die)

 

Oil light could be due to a faulty oil pressure switch, which is near the oil filter under the intake manifold I believe. I would make sure it's faulty before changing. You should retrieve the code for the check engine light. It might lend some insight to your other problems. I believe you can find a procedure to blink the code online for OBD-I cars like yours (never dealt with it personally). I don't know if OBD-I cars even throw CELs for emissions reasons as I believe they lack the post-cat O2 sensors that monitor catalytic function. I'll throw it out there that these cars need the the idle air control valve cleaned periodically or heavy idle loads can drag down the idle, but I couldn't definitely say this is the source of your stalling problem. Try shifting into neutral when idling and see if the idle changes. Adding AC and power steering load will also make the engine lug when the IACV is dirty. There's a DIY for this in the FAQ:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...tv-tb-1844067/

If the distributor cap was in the condition you describe, I'd personally be doing a complete tune-up and some of the common maintenance these cars need anyway. Plugs, wires, air filter, clean the throttle body and PCV valve, EGR runners (also in FAQ).

 

okay thank you i will definitely take apart the iacv and fitv and get those cleaned and see if it improves my cars idle drop problem.