Alright, I've been chasing my tail trying to figure this out, and surely someone else has gone through this.

I've got a 2000 DX Hatch that I'm doing a swap in, it previously had a b18c5, owner before spun a rod bearing and I bought the shell with most of the parts leftover. I've gone through and ordered the hardware I'll need minus a few odds and ends. The big things I'm worried about:

I bought a used b20b high comp from a local jdm engine warehouse. The first issue deals with the fuel delivery line. It's way too short to reach the fuel rail inlet. If you're looking at the front of the motor (exhaust is in front of you, intake manifold is on the firewall side) the inlet is on the right side of the rail instead of the left side. I've been racking my brain and all of google to find a solution to this short of having a local hydraulic line company making me a custom one. Is there a car that has the right line length that I could find in a scrap yard? The fuel filter looks like it's still in the factory location on the firewall which has it left of center in the engine bay. What should I do?

Next up..Every. Single. vacuum line, harness plug and wire was cut with either dikes or a box cutter. I have no idea what to do for a vacuum layout for this motor, an electrical layout, and sensor layout. I'm not a layman when it comes to working on cars, but this is the first swap I've ever done.

Next, the b20b in my garage currently has a power steering pump and after a quick examine I know for a fact that the one on it is NOT the same as what is currently in the shell. Do I keep the one in the shell or somehow get the one on the b20 to work?

Next up, I had the wheels off of this thing in the fall and noticed that when the brake pedal is pressed, I get zero pressure on the rear pads, are my calipers seized from sitting too long or does there need to be power put to the brake booster for them to work? (GSR brake conversion if that makes a difference)

Lastly, I need to know what to do with these lines on the firewall that go from the charcoal canister, down into a small manifold on the right hand side. Are these the fuel return lines? There looks to be one line coming out of the manifold that's just hanging about. This one may have to wait until I get some pictures in the thread, just putting it in here now so I don't forget.

I know there's gobs and gobs of generic information on swapping motors in hondas, but every time I find a source of information, someone will contradict that info not 3 posts later. I really need answers on the fuel, vacuum and electrical layout of the car, these are the only things holding me back from completing the swap.

Thanks.

 

1. Get a (new or used) fuel rail from a B-series engine

2. Layman? You mean, you're not mechanically inclined. If you don't know how to work on cars, why did you buy one with issues?

3. in order to utilize the B20B P/S pump, you will have to cut and reweld the connector (at the pump)

4. you have a leak somewhere. Find it, repair/replace and bleed the system again

5. fuel lines have nothing to do with the evap canister.

To be honest, this is way over your head. Either pay someone to fix it correctly or sell it and buy a car you don't have to work on.

 

Will any generic b series fuel rail fit the intake manifold without modification?
As far as power steering goes, I can weld, so which connector are you talking about?
I'll look for a line leak as soon as I'm able.
I still need a vacuum and plug layout, do you know where I can get a technical diagram somewhere on the forum? I'm not able to find anything specific online and again, I know I'm not the only person that's gone through this.

I get it that swaps are not an easy thing, but just because I've got a few questions doesn't warrant me to be written off like that. The shell has suspension work done as well as a few other odds and ends. I bought it for 400 bucks and it came with pretty much everything needed besides a motor, some hardware and an exhaust. I'm not paying someone to put this thing together when I know I can with a little help/advise.

 

The vacuum diagram is on a sticker under the hood. You can Google it. Just buy an engine harness for an Integra the same year as your car. You're making this way harder than it is.