so I’m starting to look into going from DPFI to swapping a ZC into into my hatch. Originally there was a ZC for sale semi close to me but I haven’t gotten any responses anymore so I’m looking online.

i checked HMO - the only working link in the FAQ so I’m wondering where else you guys would recommend looking. Everywhere seems to claim they have a start up warranty and blah blah blah but they also say these engines have less than 55k on them so I take that with a grain of salt.

And if anyone here has done one recently, what did it end up costing you? I see some prices varying across sites but I figure if I find at least a block with everything I need I’ll just need an ECU, fluids, and the wiring done to swap to MPFI... what am I missing here?

Thanks

 

Assuming you have a D15B2 (do you?), you'll need - a TD02-U distributor, a PM6 ECU, an intake manifold with injectors/rail/throttle body (preferably from a D15B7 or D16Z6) and a lot of wiring fun. I'd try to find another harness and hack it up with new intake manifold handy so you can get lengths and plan how to clamp/secure the runs.

If you keep your resistor box you'll need peak/hold injectors from a car with a resistor box. If you delete the resistor box you can use the injectors standard to your shiny new intake manifold.

The first one I did (called her Rusty, may she rest in pieces) took around 200 bucks for all the parts (junkyard!) and a lot of time since I didn't have a clue. The next one I did was just about a weekend, though I had some help and a better work space too.

The ECU and dizzy are the hardest to get anymore, I may have a spare ECU if you have trouble finding one.

 

It’s actually the STD so its got a d15b1. A lot of the ones that I have seen listed come with the dizzy, manifold with all the attached parts and some other things. I didnt think about the resistor box or anything like that. Thanks for the heads up, i’ll read up on that.

 

Then another option would be to swap the head with the intake manifold, as I think the B1/B2 blocks are identical, the head is what makes the B1 even poochier.

The previously mentioned Rusty was never more than a beater, but with ARP head studs and a Z6 head gasket (thinner=compression) it was surprisingly fun. The head studs were totally unnecessary, but if you have the scratch they're so nice to have later when put 100K hard miles on that head gasket and it lets go. I'll never forgive Missouri for that, btw.

The thing about "ZC" is that either you're referring to a single cam, which is basically a D16A6 and then just get one of those, or you mean the DOHC version. I considered that for a while, but parts compatibility and availability just ruined it for me. If you really want to go DOHC you'd be better off waiting for a B series to come along. More OEM parts available, more info available, and a LOT more aftermarket options.

 

its 2017.

youre 2 decades late.

its not a question of how many miles the engine had, its how long its been sitting on a pallet outside uncovered in socal sun.

and yeah, figure out what youre even talking about. ZC is about as specific as "an engine".

 

My bad. Was talking about the DOHC ZC

 

I would guess that you will also need a transmission since the STD came with a 4-speed