I'm sorry, I've tried searching but haven't been satisfied with my results so I'll come right out and ask.

I have a B20Z2 sitting in my garage waiting to go into my '99 EX coupe. Engine has about 150,000KM and was running the day it was pulled. Looks pretty clean (no leaks, ect.). Haven't compression tested it yet but looks good (out of an auto CRV). Are there any seals or anything I'm missing for a tear down before it goes in? I'm making a parts list, and hoping to stay away from the machine shop for now. Note, I'm also using an OBD2 B18b intake manifold/throttle body.

To be changed absolutely:
-valve adjustment procedure
-clean injectors
-OEM injector o-rings
-NGK plugs
-NGK wires
-Aftermarket cap and rotor
-OEM/Gates timing belt/tensioner kit
-OEM water pump
-OEM head gasket
-OEM/Aftermarket valve cover gasket
-OEM/Aftermarket throttle body gasket
-Blox Thermal intake manifold gasket (BXIM-00101)
-OEM/Aftermarket exhaust gasket
-OEM/Aftermarket thermostat/housing gasket

Based on seal/gasket condition:
-OEM distributor o-ring (30110-PA1-732)
-OEM cam seals
-OEM/Aftermarket oil pan gasket
-OEM crank seal
-OEM rear main seal

If compression comes back bad and I HAVE to break the block down further:
-OEM/NPR piston rings
-clean/polish pistons
-wrist pins pressed/balance/shotpeen/resize/ARP rod bolts (if I have to pull the con rods anyway)
-ACL bearings
-hone

Just want a fun, reliable street engine that can still pass Ontario emissions. Not building a monster.

 

You want to avoid the machine shop yet you put this thread into the machine shop section......

Moved to the 92-00 section.

 

You don't need ARP studs etc for what is basically a stock NA setup. Don't take the head off unless you have to.

 

I would just do Timing belt, tensioner, Water pump, plugs, plug wires, cap & rotor. Basic 105k mile service since you have no idea if it's been done.

Replace anything else as needed after you get it running. Most of the stuff you mentioned is just as easy to replace once the engine is in.

 

Beg my pard, I guess?

I figured a headgasket wouldn't be a stretch if I have it all apart to do timing. Isn't it recommended soon then? Trust me, if I can get away without pulling the head I'd spend the money on a clutch and flywheel instead. ARPs are 100% overkill, I just thought it was good practice.

Thanks guys.

 

As far as I'm aware, a headgaskets and seals are not really maintenance items. Honda doesn't have a scheduled service interval like the other parts I mentioned.

BTW: Honda head bolts are reuseable, but nothing wrong with upgrading of course.

 

p8r head is a bigger upgrade than the cams you suggested.

 

Valves adjustment

If you have it on an engine stand:
Oil pan gasket
Crank seal
Rear main seal
Thermostat

 

Good to know, I thought OEM headbolts stretched! That makes my life easier. Believe it or not ARPs are not much more than what the dealer wants for OEM headbolts. Thats a fair response, I just wasn't sure if there was a known "the headgasket usually starts to blow around XXX,XXX miles". If compression comes back good I won't bother. Thanks!

I might as well put a VTEC head on it then. Decided against the 402 cams after looking into price regardless.

It is! That's why I wanted to do as much as I can before I drop it in. I've read B20Z2s like to burn valves so that's a good suggestion. Thermostat is already sitting on my bench and oil pan added to my list. Do the bottom end seals commonly leak? I haven't owned a Honda in a few years so bear with me.

Updating first post with list.

 

fwiw i've seen 2 stock engine b18c1 headgaskets both fail at about 320k.
ymmv...

 

320K miles or kilometers? Both are a ways off regardless, thanks for the info. That settles it, I'll keep the head on and just do the timing/waterpump/gaskets.