EG6 - Code 20? ELD replacement?
Hello HondaTech peeps - new here.
I purchased my first Honda a few months back - an EG6.
The guy that sold it to me said there was some battery issues and replaced said battery before he gave me the car.
After a few months of driving, my car won't start now! Turn key = nothing. I have a check engine light on. I'm pulling a code 20 = ELD? I'm thinking it had something similar to do with the battery.
After reading into this, I found out the ELD is physically inside the fuse box. I spoke to several auto shops and they're telling me to either go to a wrecker or get aftermarket fuse box.
Is there resources on the aftermarket option? Car is already heavily modified, so I figure aftermarket is probably not a bad way to go. I just don't know anything about electrical and I think it's something I don't mind learning and understanding - as long as it's not a high risk to the car!
I've called all the closest wreckers with no luck...
Thoughts?
I purchased my first Honda a few months back - an EG6.
The guy that sold it to me said there was some battery issues and replaced said battery before he gave me the car.
After a few months of driving, my car won't start now! Turn key = nothing. I have a check engine light on. I'm pulling a code 20 = ELD? I'm thinking it had something similar to do with the battery.
After reading into this, I found out the ELD is physically inside the fuse box. I spoke to several auto shops and they're telling me to either go to a wrecker or get aftermarket fuse box.
Is there resources on the aftermarket option? Car is already heavily modified, so I figure aftermarket is probably not a bad way to go. I just don't know anything about electrical and I think it's something I don't mind learning and understanding - as long as it's not a high risk to the car!
I've called all the closest wreckers with no luck...
Thoughts?
ELD will not prevent starting. Many times a code 20 is spurious and goes away.
Troubleshoot the no-crank conventionally. Assuming the battery is live and the battery connections are secure, the next common problem on manual Civics is breakage of the plastic piece in the clutch pedal arm that presses the clutch safety switch. If the switch is not pressed as it should be when you push the clutch pedal all the way down, starter will not operate.
Troubleshoot the no-crank conventionally. Assuming the battery is live and the battery connections are secure, the next common problem on manual Civics is breakage of the plastic piece in the clutch pedal arm that presses the clutch safety switch. If the switch is not pressed as it should be when you push the clutch pedal all the way down, starter will not operate.
ELD will not prevent starting. Many times a code 20 is spurious and goes away.
Troubleshoot the no-crank conventionally. Assuming the battery is live and the battery connections are secure, the next common problem on manual Civics is breakage of the plastic piece in the clutch pedal arm that presses the clutch safety switch. If the switch is not pressed as it should be when you push the clutch pedal all the way down, starter will not operate.
Troubleshoot the no-crank conventionally. Assuming the battery is live and the battery connections are secure, the next common problem on manual Civics is breakage of the plastic piece in the clutch pedal arm that presses the clutch safety switch. If the switch is not pressed as it should be when you push the clutch pedal all the way down, starter will not operate.
Yeah the check engine light came on and a day later car wouldn't start. So I assumed it was that.
I'll report back.
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