Planning on building a B16A2 Turbo street build. Just wanted some input and opinions on certain things.
Now my power goals are 400-500whp, this car will maybe see a track a couple of times but nothing serious. Now before everyone tells me to go with a different engine, I am sticking with the B16A2.
Another thing I am a at some of this, so please try to help. Thanks in advance.

Lets begin, over the past year I have been collecting parts. I'm a student so I don't have a **** ton of money to spend. Everything that has been done to the car has been done by friends or myself.

*Stock Engine Parts*
- P28 on Crome
- B16A2 Engine
- Skunk2 Pro Series Intake Manifold
- B16A2 Head Stock (currently on the car)
- Stage 3 competition clutch kit
- Emusa Intercooler with 2" piping hot side, 2.25" cold side (got it for free) 27x7x2.5
- BWR Turbo ramhorn manifold
- Tial Wastegate
- T3/T4 Turbonetics Turbo *Have to mic it out as i cant find any info on it* *Was told it made just over 440 on the dyno on a camaro*
- Greddy Type S Bov
- Walbro 255 fuel pump
- AEM Wideband
- AEM Fuel Rail
- Sandwich Plate

*Built Engine Parts*
- B16A2 Block
- Darton Sleeves
- Arias 84mm Pistons 9.8:1
- Eagle Rods
- ARP Headstuds
- T3 Top Mount Manifold
- GSR Camshafts
- S2000 Intercooler 26x9x3.5
*Forgetting some stuff will update as I go*

 

Stick with 81.5mm bore. There are little gains to be had in these engines in increasing the bore, most extra torque comes from stroke and not bore size. Better idea to leave the extra meat on the sleeves.

Parts list looks reasonable. Just make sure you don't skimp out on the tune or oil feed/return. Saving money as a student is hard but don't jump the gun or it'll hurt you 10x in the long run.

What pistons are you using?

 

Alright sweet, thanks for the reply. As for the oil feed and return I'm going to be using whatever Turbonetics calls for. For tune I plan on going to a very popular reputable tuner around my area.

As for pistons I was looking at CP, Arias or the Nippons but have decided that I should definitely stay away from the Nippons. So CP or Arias. Now I'm not 100% on the Ratio is best. I know the most common would be the 9.0:1, but I know tuning has come along way so I' m undecided on the ratio.

 

shoot for 10:1 tunning has come along way 10:1 is the norm lots of peoples go much higher then that depending on fuel used.

and just so you know the 84mm builds are using aftermarket sleeves you wouldnt do that on a stock sleeve, so stick to 81.5 and 10:1. most of your parts look legit IMO get a real wastegate, the intercooler is OK since its not as important but still you can do much better Vibrant is a steal for what they cost.

 

Agreed with 2Kdrift on the 10:1 ratio, that would be conservative on the compression without being overly low. Especially on a B16, 9:1 would make the car feel more gutless when out of boost. Better tuning technologies, more knowledge, and better knock resistant fuel makes super low compression ratios obsolete.

Personally I wouldn't worry at all about the intercooler. Wastegate can be suspect though, and if that doesn't work right or open/close when it needs to you'll have problems.

Edit: Also you really can't go wrong with CP, Arias, Wiseco, or Manley. Probably a couple other piston manufacturers I'm not thinking of right now, but off the top of my head any of those would be more than enough for your build.

 

Looks like you've got a pretty good plan thus far. Are you planning on sleeving the block? What are your plans for your ecu?

 

-3AN feed, -10AN (or 5/8) return

 

84 isnt possible without resleeving the block. 82 is the max on stock sleeves, but like chance eg said, youll want as much meat left on the sleeves if you stay with stock. I would go no more than 81.5. Honestly, with your power goal of 500ish, CSS wouldnt be a bad idea. I agree with the other guys about compression ratio as well, if your tuner is competent, 10.0-11.0 would make for a much more responsive 1.6 liter.

 

Ditch the Skunk2 cam gears. You dont need aftermarket cam gears with stock cams, its just one more thing to fail. Your waste gate is a very important piece of the puzzle, be smart and use a good name brand. All the best parts don't mean a damn thing without the engine being assembled correctly with proper clearances, definitely go to a good shop. Lastly, the tune is everything!

 

Sell the S2 cam gears and the knock off wastegate, and put the money into a Tial/Turbosmart or a model that's known to work correctly.

 

Valve springs retainers ?

 

As far as the block I plan on keeping it with the stock sleeves. So seems like 81.5 overbore would fit in good since I wouldn’t gain much power if I went any larger. I’ve been really thinking about the Arias pistons, have heard tons of good about them. As far as ecu management I was thinking Neptune or Hondata S300. I also do plan on getting rid of the wastegate I currently have and picking up a Tial. The head I plan on using Sk2 LMAs then some springs and retainers but not sure what type. Anybody have any opinions on what’s best? Also Thanks to everyone for the comments!

 

Another thing I was thinking about is my Intercooler piping is only 2” should I upgrade to 2.5” or 3”? Would the 2” be okay for my power goals?

 

400-500hp at the wheels or at the crank?

What fuel do you plan to use? What injectors? E85 would make the goal more achievable, but might require larger injectors.

Not sure if the Turbonetics T3/T4 differs much from the Garrett, but I know the 57 trim maxes out at around 400-425 to the wheels.


Also anything Emusa makes me shitty intercooler can = high intake temps which can = detonation. A good intercooler is not that expensive.

 

Both Neptune and S300 are great systems, I would definitely ask your tuner before purchasing either one if he has a preference or what system he's most familiar with.

For your power goals I'd probably look into Supertech springs and retainers. You'll want around OEM seat pressures since you're using the GSR cams (I think like 80lb? Citation needed).

2" seems a bit thin, I don't think I've done 2" piping before. I can tell you however that 3" isn't necessary unless you're pushing north of ~700+WHP, and the larger diameter pipe would slow the velocity down and add lag to the turbo. 2" would likely bottleneck you slightly(?), and 2.5" would definitely be plenty.

Edit: What is the outlet diameter of the intercooler itself? If it's 2.5", I'd look into getting a 2.5" piping kit from Go-Auto

 

my buddy pushes on stock b16a2 valvesprings and retainers 477hp at 20psi!! it was a complete stock b16a2 throttle body, intake manifold and cams too. and this some years ago!

 

I am using and like CP pistons and Manley turbo-tuff rods. I went with Skunk2 LMA's, Supertech guides/titanium retainers/85# springs, Ferrea competition plus valves and keepers. I have Hondata S300 but would not buy again.

 

What about the S300 do you not like?

 

The Hondata COP did not work with my Hondata S300. It would break up past 20psi and their customer service sucks. I was out money for the COP and hours of shop time. I would go Haltech if starting over.

 

I've heard a lot of issues with the COP conversions. It'll always be the blaster coil for me lol. Disappointing to hear that about their customer service.

I'm not very familiar with Haltech, I've seen a lot of impressive results from them though. Doesn't seem like Haltech gets used as a platform for our cars very often but I'm sure if the tuner knew what they were doing it would yield some good results.

 

 

I will get in contact with my tuner as far as management. Unfortunately where I live in Canada. There are no nearby gas stations that offer E85 so I would like to keep it to whatever’s available at the pump. I was looking at using some Bosch Ev14 1000cc injectors. Good idea?

The intercooler has 2.5” ends so I’ll probably upgrade to bigger piping.

 

I picked up an AEM Fuel rail today along with an oil sandwich plate.

 

ev14s and 2.5 inch IC piping are both good ideas

 

It could be a number of wheel combinations in that turbo. What it could do is really unknown. What it will do on a V8 vs what it does on a B16 is really comparing apples to tamales.
If the Turbonetics unit is remotely new, it will have the turbine wheel size stamped on the inlet flange surface, alone with the a/r casted inside. You would only need to mic the compressor wheel...or look at the serial #, call turbonetics and ask what that serial # was.