Experience with K series Sidewinder manifold
Hey guys I have been doing a turbo build and just got my K swapped EG hatch running today. The setup is complete but is on a basefile from my tuner. I had the car on jack stands and was burping the coolant system when I noticed it has a rumble to it similar to a Subaru. The car hadn't been started maybe 3 mins so I don't feel that I had over heated or anything like that. It does not smoke nor put off a burnt oil/coolant smell from the exhaust. The rumble isn't super noticeable but I have had a engine lose a cylinder before and it sounds a lot like this.
Being that my manifold is a sidewinder style it has unequal length runners to the turbo. I feel that this could be causing the rumble sound. Has anyone else had this type of setup to confirm my theory?
This was the first time running the engine since purchase from Hmotorsonline other than literally 2 seconds when I first got it started a week ago. I didn't have time today to run a compression test before work but I am a little nervous so I had to put this out to the forums for insight.
Being that my manifold is a sidewinder style it has unequal length runners to the turbo. I feel that this could be causing the rumble sound. Has anyone else had this type of setup to confirm my theory?
This was the first time running the engine since purchase from Hmotorsonline other than literally 2 seconds when I first got it started a week ago. I didn't have time today to run a compression test before work but I am a little nervous so I had to put this out to the forums for insight.
Also I had this same exact car with a K20a2 in it before this build.
The current build is as follows
K20z1 with 6 speed from a k20a2
speed trapp consulting TR3030r turbo
Kmod sidewinder manifold
Kpro v4
Kmod charge pipes
treadstone intercooler
turbosmart hypergate 45
turbosmart 50mm bov
Walbro 450 pump
-6 an lines
hybrid racing fuel rail and FPR (soon to be a Fuel lab FPR)
Also I didn't want to rule out that the basefile my tuner could be causing the issue? He sent it for my deatchwerks 1300cc injectors and it would not start. I changed the injector cc to 310 (stock) and reinstalled the stock injectors. It then started and runs in its current condition. I would like to think this is the issue but hearing someone say the sidewinder makes a rumble type of exhaust note would make me feel at ease as well.
Either way I will do a compression test in the morning along with new plugs.
The current build is as follows
K20z1 with 6 speed from a k20a2
speed trapp consulting TR3030r turbo
Kmod sidewinder manifold
Kpro v4
Kmod charge pipes
treadstone intercooler
turbosmart hypergate 45
turbosmart 50mm bov
Walbro 450 pump
-6 an lines
hybrid racing fuel rail and FPR (soon to be a Fuel lab FPR)
Also I didn't want to rule out that the basefile my tuner could be causing the issue? He sent it for my deatchwerks 1300cc injectors and it would not start. I changed the injector cc to 310 (stock) and reinstalled the stock injectors. It then started and runs in its current condition. I would like to think this is the issue but hearing someone say the sidewinder makes a rumble type of exhaust note would make me feel at ease as well.
Either way I will do a compression test in the morning along with new plugs.
I definitely don't think it's the sleeves. Unequal length tubing can and will change the exhaust resonance, so that could be a contributing factor.
Film a video of it running?
Edit: Not even close to an apples/apples comparison, but: http://1320performancestore.com/1320...%20si%20header
I definitely think you should keep investigating and working on the tune, and figure out exactly how and why the car sounds the way it does just to make sure it's operating correctly. I definitely wouldn't be too worried though
Film a video of it running?
Edit: Not even close to an apples/apples comparison, but: http://1320performancestore.com/1320...%20si%20header
I definitely think you should keep investigating and working on the tune, and figure out exactly how and why the car sounds the way it does just to make sure it's operating correctly. I definitely wouldn't be too worried though
Hmm. Maybe. I'm thinking that's the calibration first, not the manifold. It may be a factor, but not that much of a factor, from my experience with them.
I am a little concerned that you say it wouldn’t start on the 1300cc injectors, but you put in stock 310’s and update the calibration and it runs?
All that swapping injectors entails is updating the sizing and dead times in the calibration, easy peasy. Does this tuner know what they’re doing?
All that swapping injectors entails is updating the sizing and dead times in the calibration, easy peasy. Does this tuner know what they’re doing?
I am a little concerned that you say it wouldn’t start on the 1300cc injectors, but you put in stock 310’s and update the calibration and it runs?
All that swapping injectors entails is updating the sizing and dead times in the calibration, easy peasy. Does this tuner know what they’re doing?
All that swapping injectors entails is updating the sizing and dead times in the calibration, easy peasy. Does this tuner know what they’re doing?
I do know his business partner has a built b18c with quite a bit of money under the hood and he trusted him to push his car on up past 600whp which was what it roughly read on there dyno when they started uping it. I cant help but to be concerned though because Derek had a plan to help the longevity of my stock engine until I build it. Idk JT's idea of conservative but Derek wanted the torque to purposely come in later in the power band for the sake of the rods.
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I definitely don't think it's the sleeves. Unequal length tubing can and will change the exhaust resonance, so that could be a contributing factor.
Film a video of it running?
Edit: Not even close to an apples/apples comparison, but: 1320 Performance B series UEL Twister header GSR SI B18c LS B20 vtec B18 honda
I definitely think you should keep investigating and working on the tune, and figure out exactly how and why the car sounds the way it does just to make sure it's operating correctly. I definitely wouldn't be too worried though
Film a video of it running?
Edit: Not even close to an apples/apples comparison, but: 1320 Performance B series UEL Twister header GSR SI B18c LS B20 vtec B18 honda
I definitely think you should keep investigating and working on the tune, and figure out exactly how and why the car sounds the way it does just to make sure it's operating correctly. I definitely wouldn't be too worried though

I agree with you guys. I am going to his shop tomorrow evening. For peace of mind I am going to do a comp test in the am which I feel should be done with a used engine regardless. Honestly this has me scared to even finish burping the coolant system.
Ive built my own k- twinscroll t4 sidewinder turbomanifold and the car sounds like a subaru. Without an exhhaust muffler u think its a big monster subi...my experience with this manifold is u need more fuel on cyl 3 and 4. I have a feed an return line on my eudm ep3 k20.
https://youtu.be/ytsitByQIpY
in this video its kinda hard to tell. I'm really starting to lean towards the mani. I can't find the comp tester since ive moved 3 times in the course of building this car but I'm going to the shop today. When he gets time he's gonna look into it.
in this video its kinda hard to tell. I'm really starting to lean towards the mani. I can't find the comp tester since ive moved 3 times in the course of building this car but I'm going to the shop today. When he gets time he's gonna look into it.
If you had a calibration for 1300CC injectors and installed stock injectors the AFR's should be stupid lean at idle. I can tell you this though I had a log manifold on my last set-up, and a sheepey bottom mount on this set-up with the same awesome turbo that you have and my car sounds totally different than it did before. Get a wideband and get rid of the guess work.
https://youtu.be/ytsitByQIpY
in this video its kinda hard to tell. I'm really starting to lean towards the mani. I can't find the comp tester since ive moved 3 times in the course of building this car but I'm going to the shop today. When he gets time he's gonna look into it.
in this video its kinda hard to tell. I'm really starting to lean towards the mani. I can't find the comp tester since ive moved 3 times in the course of building this car but I'm going to the shop today. When he gets time he's gonna look into it.
you should be able to "rent" a compression tester for free at your local auto parts store
The last time I rented a compression tool from Autozone I kept getting incredibly low readings on a healthy engine because the tool had been abused so much, the O-Rings weren't sealing. Was just a waste of time.
to each their own lol, Ive had luck with them and oriellys is about 2 minutes away, IMO its just a very basic tool as long as your cylinders are close to eachother you need a leakdown to get more info
No I had the o2 in but it turns out it was faulty. I also had my new wideband in and was reading super rich 12:1 at idle. My tuner was totally comfortable with the car and sound of it. Said he will get it all straight when he tunes it and the sound seemed to him like a typical thing with these manifolds.
as stated above my stock o2 was faulty. But I bought a brand new sensor for it. Also I adjusted the cc in k pro for the stock injectors that's why it finally started lol. I will for sure update things as I get tuned next Saturday
If you had a calibration for 1300CC injectors and installed stock injectors the AFR's should be stupid lean at idle. I can tell you this though I had a log manifold on my last set-up, and a sheepey bottom mount on this set-up with the same awesome turbo that you have and my car sounds totally different than it did before. Get a wideband and get rid of the guess work.
I just want to say thanks guys for all the support. Ive had nothing but good things come from this community every last time. I'll try and get some good footage this Saturday. And I'm going to have JT do a compression test at the shop. I know I have mine somewhere ive just moved so many times lately.
Oh and I should mention when I went to his shop Friday to drop off the car, He was tuning a nice little B series setup with a big turbo. He had already worked out the drivability of the tune and was going for power when I got there. I did notice a couple pulls when he was slowly adding psi he had a little break up in the higher rpms but both times he instantly let off the throttle, worked on the tune, let the car cool to the same temp and then went for a pull. Both times he got the break up to clear up and the second time he replaced the plugs and got over 450whp out of it. His dyno chart seemed to flow smooth and the AFR was staying pretty straight. When I left he made just over 450whp and was still climbing.
We discussed trying to keep the torque down in the lower rpms as much as possible but IDK how well that's gonna work with such a badass turbo setup lol. I will be with him all day during tuning Saturday but I will tell ya I am pretty confident in him at this point.
We discussed trying to keep the torque down in the lower rpms as much as possible but IDK how well that's gonna work with such a badass turbo setup lol. I will be with him all day during tuning Saturday but I will tell ya I am pretty confident in him at this point.
I think you're going to have some good results man. Be prepared perhaps for the minor hiccup here and there, but you've done well and I think everything is going to come together nicely.
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