Hey..for more details see my build thread

basics..just swapped b17 into eg that already had b18.

have had issues with it revving and running since I put it in.. there's been a few times here and there that it has run semi-OK..first few times I got it running, it didn't really wanna go above 6k..but it was running a and revving..struggled a bit to get it to 6k even sometimes..

so I figure I'm having dizzy issues..try a few others..code 8 did pop up for a bit, gone now...I gutted my vtec dizzy and used the sensors from my old b18 dizzy that never had much issue.

coil and icm tested out via impedance check fine.. I have at least 3 icms that all look different. I also gave like 5 coils..all the coils seem to three within range,

Got brand new ngk blues, ngk 4554 plugs, rotor and cap today too..after that it fired right up (on stock ecu) and was idling great..went inside to grab camera and it started getting rougher and stalled. Added more gas to be safe and...dead..now it won't started..tried wiggling different wires all over..

bet it might start later too..then die..

B17.. g101 should be good@0ohm..good continuity from dizzy sensors to ecu..

losing my mind. Ideas?

​​​​​

 

Remove the spark plugs to see if they have turned black and fouled out. That would mean it's running very rich or burning a lot of oil. Reading your other thread, it looks like your MAP / injectors / basemap are not properly tuned for each other, and it is extremely rich.

You can burn the black stuff of of the plugs with a torch to get started again, of course you need to retune.

As you swap distributor sensors, the polarity of the two signal wires is important.

 

brand new plugs..doubt they fouled in 1min.

sensors were swapped whole with the plugs..but I do automotive wiring professionally for a living anyway so even if I did have to change the plugs, I would have made sure it's working.

I guess it's time to go over everything..AGAIN..

 

wild *** guess #1:

DIY Ignition switch cleaning - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra

otherwise test usual suspects:

Honda Acura Essential Electrical Repair Website. Troubleshooting Main Relay, Coil, Igniter, etc.

 

Not that much of a noob..as I said I just rebuilt my dizzy with good parts.

so I did check my oil after pulling the new plugs and seeing they were wet already..

it was 3x past full on the stick..drained..chocolate milk..****!

I compression tested the motor before it went in, was fine. Oil that was in pan when I got it looked good. Previous owner swears it was fine.

better not be a cracked block. If he sold me a Cracked block Ill have to post his address and name on here or something and you can all send hate mail (or go steal his teg...not that I'm suggesting this...no one break the law..!)

 

Not even a trace of oil in the coolant..but the oil is brown like chocolate milk and I drained like 2x what I could have put in.

dried about 2l of coolant the rest is probably in my oil..

I thought maybe is there a chance the oil cooler could have burst inside and such but I'd imagine both would be mixed if so..

fukc k

 

Hg Def looked leaky

 

so solved?

 

Not 100%..hg was Def leaking and wasnt the stock one.removed head and gasket was wet and the 2/3 of the "divets" that go nowhere had oil so it wasnt sealing..hope nothing is warped/cracked..don't have a precision strait edge or pressure tester but ill probably rent one tomorrow..new headgasket is on and head is torqued down..I'll put it together tomorrow and see...cross yer fingas

 

Not solved.

Got video tonight of it running, bogging and eventually dying, will upload soon.

Put new HG on and it fired right up..ran for a bit..was smoking some..didn't really wanna Rev...got it to Rev a little bit a couple times..

I explain a lot in the video but..

b17a1..just put in that new HG..dizzy rebuilt with sensors from my b18 which was running fine as far as the dizzy went..

cams are are +2 -2 but that shouldn't affect much

using stock p61 for now to test..map sensor isn't stock but it should just make it more rich .. ecu throws code for it but once it stopped starting and the ecu was reset and it still wouldn't re-start.:þ

helllp

 

Looking back at one of the earlier videos I made .. was running way smoother.. no smoke really .. still wouldn't Rev above 6k at that point and was struggling..that was before new HG and before discovering my oil pan way full.

https://youtube.com/?tUGVCV_30L8
I put the tbelt back on tonight after putting the head on and I'm pretty certain it's lined up right..

wts is going on?!

 

https://youtube.com/?4Xe5RITSVNk

 

So no water in the oil now?

With a stock ECU, you should be using stock MAP sensor and stock injectors. "A little rich" is an understatement.

 

Can't really tell if its you most of the time revving the engine or its doing it on its own.

If you have to give it throttle to keep it alive than you have issues with either it dumping too much fuel or your ignition system isn't doing its job.

 

Was idling around 11.5ish, didn't think that'd be too rich to run at least. Unplugging map makes no difference.

No water in the oil so far. Here's the video from last night after the new hg

edit: oops posted pt2 2X
real pt1

https://youtube.com/?HBLQx3UtTyY


​​​

 

And pt2

 

exhaust leaks, vacuum leaks. Can you get to those and post another video?

 

That's a lot of oil on the plugs. You should look in the intake pipe to see if it is coming up from the turbo.

Now that it seems to have mechanical integrity and somewhat runs, you really need to do at least a little tuning. Like I said before, initially put stock parts on to get the AFR into a sane range. Always confirm that something works properly as stock before going to modify it.

 

Well, it was running almost perfect in the first video, other than not being able to rev past 6k-ish which was on old cap and rotor. That didn't last though.

The main turbo pipe has never been installed, so, it's never seen anything but it's own vaccuum.

The exhaust is sealed pre-turbo, leaks a bit after. Only one vac leak, which is the one I put my finger on in the one video that seems to give enough for it to idle with these injectors. Again though it did run mostly fine at first.

I took a break today. Will test a bunch tomorrow. Spent $200 on a few fittings, 2 feet of line and an aftermarket fuel filer and gauge. Haven't installed my aeromotive pump yet but will soon and eventually upgrade the stock lines too. What I got replaces the stock filter and line to rail adding a gauge there.

Plans:
- install new filter and fpr gauge
- test different ecus, hook up laptop if I can get it to start with chipped
- try a different icm and coil maybe even though they measured OK
- double check and test a bunch of wiring

 

So I got some fuel parts..

Performance flow inline filter 10 micron
2 ft nylon braided fuel hose
-6 AN fittings and adapters
0-60psi fuel pressure gauge
Russell banjo bolt adapter for civics (let's me screw a gauge into the stock rail or filter)

so I threw the gauge on the stock filter for now and primed..~40psi OK good. Start it. It runs this time but the fuel pressure is bouncing like crazy! I don't know if this is natural hysteresis or a bad fpr or something, I assume it's not normal and even if it was hysterical that it wouldn't bounce THAT much .. that said idle AFR was still 11.3ish

 

Fuel pressure follows the manifold vacuum. Running NA, the highest pressure will be reached with the engine stopped. More vacuum causes pressure to drop. If the rpm and vacuum are varying, so will the fuel pressure.

 

So I popped my chip into my old p06 .. no better but then I pulled the jumper .. to run it off stock p06 map...

still bogs when floored but started to run way smoother..was able to actually red line it if I flicked the key off and on..otherwise wouldn't go past 4k butI'm sure that's to do with it being a d map

​​​​​​now..the base map I used for this was basically the b16 stock map. Also if you remember I was also trying the p61 in stock mode without much luck either.

makes me wonder if I'm having issues with the p61s on top of having an issue with my eeproms..

the tach was all over when I was trying with a p61 earlier so I swapped the ICM again, no change, swapped coil again, no change but with the p06 the tach was fine

still smoking more than it should maybe valve seals not a huge issue right now.. I could probably (barely) drive it on the p06 (could definitely get around the block) which is more than I've been able to say for a few days

will post a video in a min of it running on the p06

Also fuel pressure seemed more stable too probably because of vacuum going all over maybe ​​​​

 

This might seem silly but I think my next step would be to burn a p06 map and throw the chip in aND see if it runs the same as it does with the p06 jumper removed

 

Well when the p06 map wouldn't start I knew something was weird...

my 3bar map was reading 3v apparently at atmospheric which is too high wondering if that went on me..swapped the stock map on..leaned out my b17 basemap a bit (2x leaner than I had it set for the b18..? At least that's the final multiplier not sure how the exact cells differ but probably less than the multiplier) and it fired up goodish, definitely better.

did a few chip burn iterations..was having data log issues but that's related to my cable..once I fix the cable and do a few more adjustments I think I'll be good now..

oil level hasn't really gone up either now...

I think I've definitely made some progress..thanks for the pointers..will see how my tuning goes now

 

So I fix my data log cable and plug it in..

wtf..I'm pretty sure it's not 4psi outside right now.

reading 3.73v at koeo for a 3bar .. should read around 1.7 ..

OK so I plug in my stock ..

reading 5v solid ..

unplug .. floating around 4v..

wtf. .dig out the remote map for the gsr motor..

reads 2.7ish v which is good for koeo Honda sensor.

so I have not one but two bad maps.

I did accidentally swap throttle and map a whole back but that was with aftermarket 3bar..the stock..was removed months ago on the b18 and not used since..definitely didn't mix plugs on it but still dead.

patched in the gsr remote for tonight tomorrow I'll hit pnp for a new Honda one and order a new 3bar from xenocron now that our business has an account with them..this is what I get for ordering an eBay map sensor..i never did get it to tune right and it's also partly what cost me the b18b1

fkn hell

don't cheap out on mapsensors I guess!